Hi Jonny. Is not difficult. You only need to do the things properly. I've rebuilt myself mine and, by now -keep your fingers crossed- no problems at all. You need to dismantle the WP correctly, clean it and replace seal, bearings -for the best quality, SKF as example- and inner circlip. Also put in a new tab on the lock nut, and some Loctite nut locker. Of course put a new gasket when installing it again on the engine.
I'm in the middle of an endless (OK three month) Major. My philosophy was "don't fix it's not broken," but I thought I would check the thermostat before bolting everything together. As you can see from the chart it looked like it opened a little early so I bought the recommended Wahler 113A from The Bus Depot. (Fast and inexpensive, BTW.) I wouldn't trust my accuracy for anything but relative measurements, but the Wahler is clearly opening about 15 degrees hotter. It also appears like both thermostats close about 5-10 degrees cooler, which probably helps the system not "hunt" for a stable temperature. The car never ran hot, but Seattle is not a challenge compared to it's previous life in Texas. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I just replaced my water pump with Nick Forza's new pump. I could not remove the old pump face without removing the entire pump (30 years of crud it looks like). Anyway the one problem I had was reinstalling the rear 2 coolant line hoses to the housing. No way in there without removing the airbox plenum. BUT... if you remove the oil filter, you can reach through and grasp the coolant hose to shove it back on the pipes from the rear pump housing. Hope this helps for anyone doing this job in the future..
