Waterless coolent in Countach

We are using since years with good success the coolant fluid VW/Audi is using in their Diesel engines, boiling Point is at 130° C.

It's also water free but in worst cases can be mixed with water.

 

The VW/Audi liquid you can also buy from retailers, it's not expensive at all.

 

I have a rest in a canister at home, let me check this evening.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7PykrgzWPQ

 

VW-TL52176 (G13) to be mixed up with water.

 

Manufacturers of very expensive industrial engines still recommend water antifreeze as the best. The key is to use the right water and the right antifreeze for a motor with wet liners. Not all water and all antifreeze is the same, there are many formulas of antifreeze. Those manufacturers also agree that mileage does not really matter but time does. They strongly suggest either changing annually or replace the additive package.

As far as water, they are unanimous, either distilled or reverse osmosis. As far as antifreeze the only over the counter brand I was able to find in the US that really has the correct additive package for wet liner engines is Zerex GO5. Liner pitting is often caused by cavitation which is quite common in wet liner engines and is caused by water impurities, insufficient quantities of the correct additives and insufficient coolant pressure. Keep those in line, change annually with the correct stuff and your cooling system will stay in good condition till long after you and I are dead of old age.

 

I've never saw any kind of aluminum corrosion or oxidizing in Toyota V8s, if it was the question, I'd look at Toyota's long life stuff. I don't know about wet liners, but it should be neutral to that as well. Toyota makes great engines, but no more fun or attractive cars.

 

Great engines but very different engines with very different needs. The long life antifreezes do not have the additives needed.

 

I run it in my TR, LP400S and will run it in my BB512 when the engine goes back together. Years of experience without any issues.

I pulled the liners out of my resto project LP5000S after years of running water. Not pretty. I only run the Evans NPG now.

I also live in Dubai and run it in a few track motorcycles (R1, YZ450F) without any heat issues when it is really hot outside.

The Evans stuff will not boil and does not act under pressure, so it also reduces stress on water pump seals. It also does not need to be changed every 2 years.

It can be a pain to install though as you need to drain everything (block plugs), refill with the prep fluid and then run it before draining it again. Messy.

 

Once, I was deep into Evans NPG stuff, trying to figure out how it works and what's the exact formula. And I've figured, there's nothing fancy about it. The key is the additive package that's neutral to parts for over 3-5 years.

What I mean is that I wouldn't keep VW's G13+ for the same period as Evans coolant. The additives are different, G13 has got biodegradable additives.

 

Remember all that modern coolants are only for iron/aluminium parts, but old cars like Countach has brass radiator and organic coolants eat lead from solder.

 

What do you mean by an organic coolant? Most of the automotive coolants are simply Ethylene Glycol + additives. Only the additives differ and the way ethylene glycol is produced.
Industrial coolants are based on Propylene Glycols.

 

Originally brass radiators and brass heater element in countach. Diablo is all aluminium.

Inorganic Acid Technology (IAT)

Organic Acid Technology (OAT)

Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT)

 

Any updates or preferences on coolant?

 

I still run Evans NPG in my TR, BB512 and LP400S as well as a few motorcycles. Have been using it since 2004 with no issues (even in Dubai heat). I originally started using the stuff in a Ducati with magnesium outer cases - water would erode the case around the water pump impeller. A byproduct seems to be less stress on water pump seals as the system does not operate under very much pressure.

 

Guys what about the Zerex G05 or Rotella Ultra Extended Life in the classic cars (Countach in this case)?