Hello everyone, I thought I would share my experience yesterday. When I was young I woked in a detail shop for some time. I became a self proclaimed "shine master". Well yesterday after using Perfecta 1500 to polish out the 355 I thought I would try a new wax called Nanowax. I had mild "swirl" marks in the paint from the polish. In the past I used 3M Pink fill-n-Glaze then I waxed with carnuba. This whole process would usually take 2 hours because I machine all 3 steps. Yesterday I was done in 45 minutes!!!!!! After polishing with a yellow pad I then used an orbital machine and applied Nanowax. It went on easy and came off with a microfiber cloth (highly recommended) minutes later with no residue or streaks. Mind you I was in my garage (closed), it was 45 degrees outside with about 80% humidity. As you all may know red is a color that tends to streak if not waxed well. Needless to say perfect color and feel. Guys, this is the best stuff I have ever used. A trick in the business was to get the wrap off a pack of cigarettes and place 2 fingers inside and rub across the surface of the paint. You can feel the paint and surface with unbelievable detail. Well after this wax it was by far the best my 355 has ever "felt". After detailing nearly 2-3 thousand cars in my youth I woul honestly say this is the best wax I have used so far. Here is a link I found this morning: http://www.enquirer.com/editions/2004/08/27/biz_nanowax27.html http://www.kentucky.com/mld/kentucky/business/9148872.htm
Try the Scuderia wax from www.swissol.com and report back how it compares. I just started using it and believe it is the best wax out there.
I have used this before. This is a fine wax but is 40% carnuba. Carnuba I believe is about 10-80 (10-80millionth) microns. Nano is a billionth. The problem with waxes with a large amount of carnuba "base" is you have to hand apply it and carnuba boils off over 160 degrees. It also evaporates. You will lose 90% of the wax within 90 days. High concentrate Carnuba is very suseptible to UV also. I believe Nanowax has a small amount of Carnuba in it, I am just saing I have never worked with a wax that was this easy to apply and remove and left such amazing results.
The Scuderia wax goes on by hand and comes off the same way. It took me about an hour to use that wax. It will also leave white residue around places if you forget and is very suseptible to low temps and high humidity to make the process even harder. Also if I remember correctly I paid about 100$ us for the product. Nanowax was 10$!!!!!!!!!
When I used NXT it seemed to streak a little. I had to go over the car a 2nd time to get full coverage. The final look was good however. I'm just making the statement that the Nanowax went on so easy and came off just as well. I also believe that NXT is a polymer wax not a carnuba derivative. I am also under the impression that the company is calling it a "sealant". What is hard to believe is that cigarette smoke is in the same arena (about 1-.1 microns)!!!!!
Just got back in from the "sunlight test". Last night I was in garage light and could still se swirl marks until I used Nanowax. This morning I took the car out in the sunlight and had ZERO streaks and/or swirl marks. The 355 looks better than ever. Unbelievable color depth! Very impressed!!!!
Zymol is more of a cleaner wax and I'm not a real fan of cleaner waxes. I'm telling you this wax is truly unbelievable. After a 65 mile ride today very little dust adhesion and it came off with a duster and no "cob webs".
Zymol makes some very good waxes that do not have cleaners in them. http://www.zymol.com/carfeed2.htm
Yes, but they are Glazes. If you look earlier in my post I talk about ease of use and how the product goes on and comes off and gives a great result.
Thank you for the info. My question is can you give me a step by step process you go through when you wash and wax your car? I will look for this wax when I go to the store next time. I have used zymol before. It is too time consuming and was never sure it gave my car good protection. Looking for advice. Thank you.
Most people will tell you not to use a dish detergent soap and I guess that is ok; however I use joy. It uses more alkalinity to really clean the car. Dry with a chamois or a very softened terry towel. Take the car for a quick 5 minute spin to get water from all the hidden spots. Nanowax can be hand applied but I prefer an orbital machine. Hand apply all the areas a machine cant get. Don't worry about any small amounts of water. A light carnuba wax mixes well with water. Go inside and take a 30 minute brake. Make sure you buy a Microfiber cloth. Waxes come off easier and tend not to make cobwebs with a microfiber cloth. You can also use Nanowax on plastic rear windows on spiders. Use the wax on windows and it will help bead water for rainy days. This is an amazingly easy wax to use. Notice the color of your car when done. Make sure you apply the wax in an area out of sunlight.
Why joy soap? I did use zymol soap. What are the issues with the different soaps? Also, I was always told not to drive the car until you were finished waxing your car as you don't want to pick-up dirt and then mark-up your paint. Is this true? So you drive your car to finish drying it? I have always wanted to use a machine to wax my car but have been nervous of messing up the paint. Can you guide me in using a machine? Thank you.
Joy soap has more alkalinity in it then soap for a car. The alkalinity strips alot of contaminents along with the wax. That is why alolt of people use "car" soap. One car wash soap is as good as another. If you just run the car for a couple of minutes it won't hurt. I sometimes run over it real quick with a duster before I wax. That is one great feature about this wax, in normal glazes dust will leave cobwebs behind, this does not. Thats why I'm telling you all how great of a wax this is. I use an orbital to apply wax. No fear od ruining your paint with it. It rotates at about 50-100 rpm. Not enough to "burn" paint. You may be thinking about a polisher which will spin at 1700-3500 rpm's. If you do not have experience with it DON'T USE ONE. Take it to a detail shop. A novice can easly burn a corner or two.
Thank you. You have been a great deal of help. Yes, I was thinking of a polisher. I am looking forward to using the wax. Thank you for the info. Could you send me a list of products you use and would recommend? Thank you.
If you have an AutoZone or any other auto parts store getbthe following: Wash Mit Car Wash soap (for the times you do not want to wax after wash) Eagle One Nanowax 9.99$ 9" orbital buffer about 30-60$ 9" bonnets for orbital A 3 pack of microfiber cloth's 1 or 2 chamois a detail brush All total=80-100$ You will be VERY HAPPY with the Nanowax if not let me know and maybe I can help more.
Carnuba has wonderful effects on paint. It is almost like putting lotion on your hands. Polymers have wonderful UV protection and tend to "seal" paint. If you are a daily driver or don't wax often a polymer is best. If it is the opposite then a carnuba wax is best. Some of the best waxes always have a carnuba base. The trick is finding the right percentage and mix. Cannuba tends to leave a wet look and the best "feel". I enjoy to wax some of my vehicles (except the Hummer----takes about 3 damn days). I am just completely impressed with the Nanowax especially that it is available in auto parts store, something I would have neve considered 2 years ago. I owned a 328 for years and the paint never looked as good as my 355 does today. I would clean and wax my 328 every month. I used every high quality wax available but preferred swissol.
This is truly an amazing test to compare finishes and waxes. There was times where a customer would bring in their car that they proclaimed was clean and waxed. I would invite them to the test before and after I would detail their car and they would be amazed. Now I am amazed with the final result of this wax. Before on a 8 hour work day I could fully polish, fill-n-glaze, wax and then detail brush about 3-4 cars a day. If I would have had this wax I could have nearly doubled my results.
I'm not convinced on this stuff. It may look great, especially on non-metallics which show more swirl marks, but there are many testiomnials that say it's durability is severely lacking. Personally, I don't have the time to strip-wash and rewax my car every 10 days. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=238109&highlight=Nanowax
Since I write the Concours & Detailing Tips column for the FCA, I figured I should check into this stuff a bit. I think your comment is correct... this is best used as a "just before a car show" wax, similar to how I'd assess NXT. I contacted Valvoline (the parent company of Eagle One) and got the basic ingredients via their MSDS for their NanoWax product. It contains aprox 20% wax, and 50% of the product is the evaporating petroleum distillate carrier. Further, the next highest ingredient is silicone, which makes it look great and glossy, but of course evaporates in a matter of days. Next comes Aluminum Silicate, which I presume is the filler. In any case, this is definitely a WAX, not a Polyurethane, so don't expect much longevity, though it should have a great immediate appearance.
Why do you say this about NXT? I've only used it once, so I don't know what's gonna happen with it yet!
I am curious about the difference between when to use each. I understand that Nanowax is good at protecting from UV rays. Which I like. I am unclear as to how carnuba wax does not? Also I have noticed that carnuba waxes seem to make my cloth turn red(car is red) as I am polishing my car. I am also unclear as to the issue of why one evaporates more so than another? Don't they both evaporate in the sun? 355flyer, Thank you for the list. I will try the things you mentioned. What in your opinion is the best protection for the paint of a Ferrari? Both when stored and when driven. Thank you again.