We need an easier way to describe 308 iterations.

Woah! I have always thought the steel cars started in 76, but with what you just stated I ran off and looked at the GTB register. They say the same thing. That makes the steel non cat car a one year only car!

Okay, this is off topic a bit, but another thing that interests me, is how many were really produced. GTB register claims 963 GTB, and 106 GTS cars produced in 77, of which 42 GTB's were glass. But is that number just the 77 model year cars, which I have been told ends in June, or is that ALL cars built in 1977, which would also include 78 model year cars? If the later, there could be far fewer steel 77 GTBs produced than the 912 proposed.

21181, built in March, has the numbers 277 on all of its parts, as well as on the chassis, stamped in above the ignition coils. 21645 built in May is all stamped 311. I am of the understanding these are actual production numbers, ie, 277, and 311 cars built consecutively.

Tex, Rick, anyone with 77's, can you see what number is stamped near your coils? its the bracket welded to the frame tube that the coil bolts to.

 

E I E I ...." O "

early GTBs rule

 

2VEE (EURO)
2VEU (WHAT ELSE - US)
2VEEF (EURO FIBGLAS)
2VEUF (US FIBGLAS)

2VLE
2VLU

2VIE
2VIU...

Are we missing any other significan varriations?

cm

 

This works for me!

 

and besides knowing the subtleties of each variation, you also need to know on which day of the week it was built for parts/repair procedures. It never ends.

so how many of what kinds of 3x8 will be showing up at the East Coast/West Coast meets.....in their new designations of course

 

Placing a "V" for "valves" is redundant. Use a format similar to VIN coding where placement determines feature.

Example:
99NVIC
where
99 = Two digits representing the model year
N = Nationality, either "E" for Euro or "U" for USA
V = Single digit representing # of valves
I = Fuel atomization process, either "C" for carb'd or "I" for injected
C = Single digit representing # of cats (including the number zero if none)

Thus, 77U2I0 would be Big Tex's '77 non-cat car as given above (or to similar effect).

Again, this is just an idea but does make for simple and consistent identification. I would suggest using a binary method but describing how to convert binary to decimal is a whole nuther thread LOL

However, I think if a person was really interested in a particular model that they would have some documentation (book, web site, etc.) that broke down the various models. Giving a broad example, a model I want is the 328 with the concave rims (non-ABS) but as late as possible -- I could care less about number of valves or cats. How do you convey that cosmetic descriptor? Well, really, a knowledge of the car is better than learning a code and then deciphering it

Personally, I want a 308 GT4 w/sunroof. What more need I say?

 

A very good example, and don’t forget the difference in GTB and GTS regarding dry sump vs. wet sump. I have a 1978 GTB euro with dry sump and 255hp, is that a late carb with early carb performance?

 

Wouldn't that be 77U2C0?

 

Well, then I have a 78E2C0

and perhaps a 78E2C0BD with:

Seven digit: B=GTB or S=GTS
Eight digit: D=Dry sump or W=Wet sump

Im used with this VIN stuff, me like

/Patric

 

Yes, all Euro cars kept the cams and were NON CAT thru '80..

Ahem, yes, the 1977 steel NON CAT USA cars is a pretty narrow niche......

I think your math is pretty close Paul, as baring any labor problems it should be similar to the published 'glass cars for the year, I'd think.....

 

I might be mistaken.... but should the steering wheel placement be added?
Like a
2VLERHD
2VLULHD

Now see what you stirred up Birdman..LOL

 

Following, sort of, Alfa 105 Spider convention...

Glass dry sump: S1
Glass wet: S1.5
Early carb: S2
Late carb: S2.5
2Vi: S3
Early QV: S4
Later QV: S4.5
Early 328: S5
ABS 328: S5.5

...With Euro- or US- preffix as required.

 

Yup

 

Nice!

Maybe insert RHD or LHD after the Nationality, to keep the deciphering fluid since a Euro car could be have the steering wheel on either side. But is this getting too picky? I don't know.

 

Aw, heck, this is too complicated to remember, why not just use the VIN or F* engine coding...

 

Yes. F106AB here.

 

Agreed. Post characters 4 thru 10 of your VIN. It will describe the car without giving away too much info:
http://www.red-headed.com/articles/vin.html