I thought I saw that you replaced the bearing with new sealed units and I hope that is correct. Also, if you replace the throttle arm springs, be prepared for your gas peddal to be a bit stiffer than before. I was supprised at how much difference the new springs made over the old.
Sean, I did replace the OEM bearings with some high quality TOYO bearings made in Japan I got from my pal Carl in Australia. The were exactly the same dimension maybe even a few hundreds of a mm thinner however they were spinning in the carb body so I put a drop of sleeve sealant on on side when i tapped them in. I can only think that one or both did not tap in all the way s the ram and maybe the lever are not resting on the throttle shaft but on the small brass bushing. I have ben told these should be even. I am taking aprt my other #47 today and will check all that I put the old spring on but may have to take that lever off again to check the gap. Do you suggest using the new springs??? Maybe it will make me go slower!! HA your pal Rob
Dear Freinds, I finally got #45 back together. No one responded on the float height so I set it at 49mm. It was at 48.8 and ran fine. I left the top not too tight so I can go back if I want to adjust it. If have some new questions and observations. 1. I took apart 4 carbs and on all of them the brass spacer was above the shaft shoulder so the plates ride on the spacer not the shaft. 2. I made a crude bearing removal tool with my grinder. It works OK but I wish I had better machining equipment! 3. I am concerned i think I bent my shaft on #45 as you open the plates you can see the beginning of the first progression hole pop up before you see the other one. If you half open the shaft and twist you can see the plates deflect a bit so it must be easy to bend the shaft. I am not sure whether it was like that or it happened when i spent was trying to remove the one bearing or when I took the nuts off! I am wondering if I put a wood dowel in the throat and use the slightest pressure maybe i can bend it back? I am afraid that that one plate isn't closing completely. I am not sure how important this is but the carb is back together and working on #47 now! Any Ideas? I am learning a bunch, both carbs so far have all the right jets etc but have different washers and #47 did not have the wave washer etc. I have this theory no matter how much i mess things up it is still better than the last guy that did it...... here are some pics would like some more comments? Thanks to all who have helped. Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Very impressive I say. If you are already working with Mike and Carl, that's a lot of the battle. Most of one's daily driving is actually at smaller butterfly openings as everyone knows, so the progression circuit buterfly alignment is important I was taught. The shafts are easy to torse and bend, even in regular use over time. Of course, tuning rich on the idle circuit covers a lot of ills, but you may be chasing the synchronizer flow rates forever and never get a match. I would say, as annoying as it is, get a new shft. Best Russ
Hi Everyone, There are two tutorials on my website that may be helpful. They don't cover rebuilding the carbs, but how to set the float height and how to synch them. http://www.birdmanferrari.com/service/sync/carb_synch_tutorial.htm http://www.birdmanferrari.com/service/sync/carb_synch_tutorial.htm Birdman
Friends, I Finished my #47 carb to day and have some comments. I also noticed a few tidbits that may be of interest. I have 4 or 5 books on Weber that I have read and to be honest I never understood much of the text. Now that I have a taken apart a few of these I am feeling more confident and excited about this voyage of discovery I am on. For 15 years I was scared to touch these and now I feel like I wasted all that time. What beautiful little pieces of art they are. I feel ashamed to have neglected them for so long, and now after reading the books again it is all starting to make sense. I know anyone that sees the above pic of the scratched shaft will think Im a butcher (which I am not) and I am upset also. I was trying to get the bearing off with a long set of needle nose pliers and when they slipped sevral times they scratched the shaft mainly in the flat side. I have dressed it up and sanded down the spacer so the cam ramp gap between the body is .660mm on both carbs. It is the same on the other two untouched ones also. On my #45 left front carb I had a hard time removing that bearing. I think maybe i twisted the shaft a bit. It is hard for me to think that my strength could bend steel! I noticed when the throttle plates opened that the first progression hole on the right throat would start to be visible before the other. After thinking about it for a few days and after looking at a few other carbs, I decided if I twisted it one way why not the other. I put a small crescent wrench on the flat of the cam ramo shaft and grabbed the throttle lever and twisted for a couple of hours off and on. I am happy to report that I got them as close as my other carbs. I am not sure whether many know this but I love this car more than is probably acceptable even in this community. I was wrong to have tried to get the bearing out by without taking more time to think about it and I am hoping that I fixed the problem and have learned a valuable lesson that i have to teach myself about once every few years. I noticed another weird thing. On my original carbs in the accelerator pump hole there is a small pin hole that leads to the chamber with the ball bearing check valve. On one of my other carbs a #46 single I got from ebay a few years ago has a large hole there instead of the pin hole. Not sure if this was factory or modified. I will post a few pics. I could not get a good pic of my pin hole but will post one when I do. I still have not a consistent float height and am looking for guidance. The WSM book says 48 the US owners manual says 50. I have collected along the way 2 extra complete sets of carbs (one new) and 4 others two 308 and 2 standard 40 DCNF's. Holy Sh#t I just realized I have 16 carbs! Wow, I just looked the data for the 35,36,37,38 carbs I have which are the new ones. They have the exact same progression holes as the 45,46,47,48! What do you think the running difference would be in euro set-up. I assume the early cams I have are the same as the Euro ones so if running one set of points and no pumps would they hypothetically work on my car? If not I could just rejet them??? Off for #46 & 48.... Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just cleaned up #46. Here is a pic. I am really excited about these carbs. BTW every carb so far has had the outer bearing very loose in the carb body looks like I will have to use the sleeve retainer on all of them. since no on answered my question about float height I just set all of them so far to 49MM from the top plate to the outside float edge nearest the joint. The manual says 50 mine were set around 48.5 or so so I am splitting the difference. Considering how you measure, if you use the soldered joint or measure from the inside or outside shoulder you measurements could be off as much as 2mm anyway........ I used the new lever springs but the replacement pump springs were shorter than the OEM ones so that is what I am replacing! Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just want to give everyone an update and ask for more advice. My last carb resisted the bearings to come out the real fit is on the shaft not the body. My GT4 friend Peter made this tool which I want share with you as it is so nice. It will make the bearing removal far easier when i get to the other carbs., not to mention creating a bond that is stronger than brotherhood! I was going to set the idle mixture screws to where they were as i wrote down all the numbers but every carb had the air bleeds open and i think whoever set these up last went the easy way to sync them, as most of what I have read says that one bleed screw should alway be shut. So my question is how many turns from closed have you found to be the best starting point for the idle mixture screws. One of my books say 3 full turns, one says 2 full turns and one says 4? Boy I have learned allot and cant wait to get my engine back together. I am getting closer. I read Birdmans carb sync tutorial but if anyone has a similar write-up or knows of one on the web I would be interested. I have noticed some discrepancies in the procedures and would like to read a few more Thanks for all of your help and suggestions. Rob Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
It looks like you have the idle mix screws with the "shoulder", but confirm that. If they are the shoulder, anywhere from 3-4 should be fine to start, but there are lots of threads with ppls stating they keep the the screws way out (like 6-7) i swapped out my screws for the euro version, and now the screws are out only a turn or two, and the "action" these euro screws create in adjustment is much more pronounced (making it easier to find the stumble point). Image Unavailable, Please Login
Just to revive this thread, do you still have the bearing puller and would you consider renting it out? I recently become the proud father of 4 Weber DCOE carbs and the ONE thing I haven't done is to replace those bearings. I promise that I won't use it on the cam bearings... Thanks, Lester
