Hello all! I’m hoping someone can help me or can point me in a general direction, here’s my issue: I just got my car back from having interior work done, dash came out and door panels came off…..now both of my windows ONLY go up or down using the switches if one of the doors is open. Once both doors are closed, the switches do nothing at all. Switches work as they should if a door is open. Anyone seen or heard of this? I’ve searched as best o know how with every keyword I can think of and read many threads but nothing quite like my issue. Please help Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
I really can't think of anything which would cause that. Are you getting automatic window drop when you open either door? And the windows go back up again when you close the doors? I was thinking that a short around one of the door hinges might cause this issue one one door, but both doors are affecting the windows. Window operation should be independent. If you lock the doors on an F430, can you still operate the windows from the inside (with the ignition on)?
I cannot remember if 360 is one of them but a number of models of the period when the door is open the window switches will work with no key. If that is the case the windows may not be getting powered when the keyed services relay is powered up.
That would be a useful feature. The books do mention a time delay after the ignition has been turned off to allow you to wind up the windows within a certain time period. During this period, battery power (alone) is used. The Window ECU has two sources of live battery power and one of key power. Key power is un-fused (at least between the key and the Window ECU). Looking at the gauge of the power wires, I would say that the battery sources do the heavy lifting and the key source is for logic and lower power items. Given Rifledriver's comment, all I can suggest is checking the pins on the Window ECU's upper plug. Specifically pin 11 (yellow/black wire). Image Unavailable, Please Login That pin/socket should have 12 volts when the key is on.
Hey y’all, sorry for the delay in replying. Thank you for all of the suggestions. Here’s where I’m at as of now: Found the driver door interior lock lever micro switch wasn’t working so I ordered a new one and replaced that. Didn’t fix the issue unfortunately. I also disconnected the battery kill switch and unplugged the green window ecu for a couple days. That too unfortunately hasn’t fixed the issue. I checked the door sill open switches that control the red lights and both of those are functioning fine so no cause of the issue there either. What I have noticed is that with either the passenger side or drivers door open, the windows work but only the passenger side window will rise up under the trim when you then close the door. The driver side window will go up to about half an inch from full up while open but when you close it, it doesn’t raise, only the passenger side one will. I’ve also found that while in the car with the doors closed, if you pull up on the open level just enough to activate the micro switch but not enough to open the door, both windows work same as when a door is open. All of this is leading me to believe it is the drivers side door latch/microswitch mechanism. What do y’all think? Chime in if you have an idea I haven’t thought of or one that hasn’t been mentioned yet. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
From this, I'd say that the system thinks that the door is open when it isn't. There was a similar issue recently and as part of faultfinding, the door open indications on the instrument cluster was used as a reference. With the ignition on and the driver's door closed, does the driver's door open indication appear? If it does, then it's a doorlatch microswitch issue. If it doesn't, then perhaps only part of the microswitch circuitry is faulty. There are splices which send doorlatch microswitch signals to various systems, including the ECU. Unfortunately, that circuitry includes the ECU. Sounds like more evidence of faulty doorlatch microswitch circuitry. Anyway, look for the warning light first. If it doesn't illuminate with the door closed, then I'd recommend doing wiring continuity checks between the ECU and main door connector, and also on the main door connector to check the doorlatch microswitch (door open and door simulated latched closed). Let me know if you can do this and I'll give instructions on which pins to check on the ECU and main door connector.
P.S. As the driver's doorlatch switch wiring includes F1 pump control, hopefully part of your gated manual conversion hasn't caused this issue. Was your F1 TCU removed and the plugs wrapped up to stop the pins shorting to ground? (EDIT) Now that I think about it, your interior lights are also affected by the doorlatch microswitch. Are they working when they shouldn't?
With the ignition on and door open it shows the door open image, with the door closed there is not image. I have a multimeter and can check so if you know which plugs and pins to check, I’ll give it a go. Also the window switches light up with the door open but don’t light up with the door closed. As far as the f1 ecu, I’m not entirely sure if it’s removed or not but the windows functioned fine after the manual swap they didn’t start malfunctioning till I got it back from the last shop redoing the interior. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat
(EDIT) Interesting. So the doorlatch microswitch is working, but somehow the Window ECU is still getting a ground, making it seem like the door is still open. Let me put my thinking cap on...
I was going to suggest doing a continuity check between the main door plug and the Window ECU connector plug C, but I'm not sure if that would identify a short to ground on the wiring going to the ECU (if there is one). Can you look for bent pins on Window ECU connector C (or the plug going to Window ECU plug C). Plug C is the smaller of the bottom plugs. Specifically look at pin/socket 7 (orange/blue wire). Image Unavailable, Please Login Of course, it could be an internal ECU issue.
The only way you could get both a permanent "latched closed" signal to the ECU, but still get proper door warning indications is if: 1) the wire going to the ECU has broken (close to the ECU) and has shorted to ground. 2) a bent ECU pin with the pin somehow shorting to ground 3) a faulty ECU component Maybe you could do a continuity check between harness plug C (socket 7) and ground with the door simulated latched closed. With the door open, trip the latch closed. Image Unavailable, Please Login If the ohmmeter shows zero ohms, you have a short to ground. Don't forget to unlatch the lock before you attempt to reclose the door after your test
This is a little confusing and I'm not 100% sure if it fits in with my current theories. My logic may be in error. I'm not sure how much the window behaviour has changed since you changed the door handle microswitch. Could you expand on this: Do you mean it doesn't raise (to the fully closed position) automatically or with the switch or both (with the door being closed)? I'm wondering what would happen if you disconnected plug C and then tried to operate the driver's window with the window switch (with the door closed). A lot of the door/window functions may not work (like automatic window drop), but you may get back manual control. I would be careful not to damage the seals trying to open the door with plug C disconnected. Is there enough room in the car to pull and reconnect plug C with the door closed?
