355 What do these things have in common..Door locks,

Good evening,

Are the following items all tied together on one fuse?

Cabin light, door locks, door lights & Frunk light?

They’re all non operative on a 355.

Are they all tied to fuse 30?

Thanks in advance.



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Frunk light is on fuse 12 in the frunk and requires the sidelights to be turned on. On the 2.7 car, doorlocks, door lights and interior lights are on fuse 30.

Is your clock working?

 

The clock is not working sir


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Then it must be fuse 30 or its associated wiring.

 

Of course, if the fuse blows again, you'll have to figure out what is causing it.

e.g. one of the door lamps' power wires shorting to earth.

All of fuse 30's wiring is orange. Have you done anything to the car recently which may have disturbed the wiring (i.e. in the cabin or in the doors)?

 

No sir, I haven’t. But I will try to track it down. Thanks so much for the start.





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Fixed. Thank you sir


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The battery was changed yesterday & the fuse blew again. I changed the fuse & it blew almost immediately. So my next step should be to follow the orange wires, correct?

 

Sorry to hear that your problem continues.

Correct. Now that you have a hard fault, I would try to isolate the problem by disconnecting things like door plugs and remove and inspect the interior light. I vaguely recall some folks having issues with wiring shorts in the interior light area (but that may have been on a Spider).
You could also try disconnecting the doorlock ECU (in the passenger footwell), but I don't recall this ECU blowing fuses. It seems unlikely that the clock would cause this problem.

 

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On my RHD car, the doorlock ECU is located above the relay panel. I've marked the mounting screw in the photo. I don't know if you'll be able to remove the electrical connectors without removing the relay panel.

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I've just noticed a wire colour variation between the photo above and the wiring diagrams:

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A grey wire seems to be going into the "+" terminal, and not an orange wire. I don't know if this is standard or a repair.

 

Thanks big time for all the help everyone! I took apart the pedal cover and front center console and discovered that the throttle cable was pinching a bundle of aftermarket wiring for the radar detector/laser jammer which was causing the door lock switch to activate.

All fixed now! Woot!

 

Oops, just realized I posted my last reply in the wrong thread :/

 

I followed the orange wires to the actual door locks. One measured 5 amp & the other 6; so that’s why it kept blowing. 11 amps on 10 amp fuse. Thanks for your guidance. All set now.


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I'm not sure what sort of current they are supposed to pull, but perhaps your doorlock mechanisms need lubricating. Out of the car, the doorlock actuators themselves can be tested with a simple 9V battery.

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Follow-up. I simply disconnected the ceiling light bulb, replaced the 10 amp fuse & everything (outside of the light obviously) works. So my issue is with the interior light…more wiring detective work to come.


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Did you disconnect the light or just removed the bulb/s?

Make sure that the orange wire is not touching directly to earth (or none of the bulbs is shorted internally)

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I assume power comes into the light like this

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... and that the metal bar (I've drawn a circle around) is live. Make sure the metal bar or the orange wires on that bar aren't touching the car's bodywork.

 

@Qavion

I removed the bulb; replaced the fuse & everything else worked perfectly. I changed the bulb (and nothing else) and so far so good. However; that you so much for the breakdown. That may prove to be very helpful.


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