At the risk of being boo'ed off the forum, I need to ask a question. I'm supposed to "lubricate" my Dino every 3000 miles. I can't find anything to lubricate except the door hinges. I just don't see grease fittings. Any help appreciated.
Thanks Scott. Whats TAV mean? That doesn't seem like a lot to lube.... I suppose you should grease the throttle cable and it's pivots along with the linkages around the carb. Doors and trunk lids (BTW, my door hinges have grease fittings! is that usual?) What else?
TAV. is the diagram reference from the Spare Parts Catalog that came with every car along with the owner's manual. TAV. is, I think, the abbreviation for tavola, meaning table. These are very detailed, "exploded" drawings. On the opposing page, there is a listing of every referenced part, with its part number. Do you do have the owner's manual and parts catalog?
yes he has the owner's manual and parts book Yes, the door hinges are supposed to be lubed, they tend to dry up and get ugly if you don't. In case you don't want to get your Dino books dirty, here's TAV 31 and 32. Tav.=tavole=table Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave's adjective "ugly" is only partially correct. Should one fail to lubricate their door hinges periodically, then the only way to remove them is to cut them off....literally. The hinge will weld itself via rust to the pin (either moving part). One can spend 2, maybe 3 weeks trying to get the pins out only to resort to air-impact wrenches, heat, prayer, and a locker room dictionary. Having suffered the curse of the frozen pin on three restorations, part of my routine maintenance is to now drive the pin out and re-lubricate with grease. Jim S.
UroT - I had grease fittings. However, in all three cases when restoring the car the pins were welded (by rust) to the hinge. I destroyed the pins in the attempt to remove them. I ended up successively driving the pin with an air impact gun and then cutting the end as it slowly moved. I replaced the pins with machined stock that I had made. The machinist spiraled a groove that allows for oil to work along the periphery of the pin. Despite the groove, I periodically remove the pin and apply grease. Using the proper drift it is easy to drive the pin out, regrease and replace. The location of the greese or oil fitting is quite difficult to get to, unless you have a hand gun with along flexible hose. Even with this it is difficult. That's why so many of these are frozen. Jim S.
DD, You're pins are NEW. I had them replaced when the car was painted. They haven't had 30 years to let the grease get all yucky. They are hollow, and slotted, when you lube 'em, the grease fills the slot and lubes the hinge. And yes, they pounded the originals out, it took quite some work, and I think there was an air chisel involved too. Two or three sort of survived, I think I shipped them to you with the car, look in the spare parts bins. DM
Dave - seems to be a shared experience...If the OEM pin has ever been removed, then it will certainly have been damaged (the grease fitting) upon reinsertion. There is no way of getting the pin back IN without banging on the top (the grease fitting). Witness the photo in this thread. The fitting was unscrewed, the top smashed as it was hammered back in, and the fitting replaced (if the threads on the cap were not destroyed). Jim S.
Lubing the distributor advance mechanism is something to be looked at. I think Mr. Corbani discussed this in one of his sagas. Not sure how often it should be done but sometimes the hard to do stuff gets put off too long.
