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What have you done to your Ferrari Today?

Discussion in '308/328' started by SteveGTB, Feb 5, 2014.

  1. Miklas

    Miklas Karting

    Dec 10, 2018
    52
    Luxembourg
    Changed the clutch, pilot bearing, main seal and spigot shaft seal.
     

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  3. DeRRis

    DeRRis Rookie

    Nov 6, 2012
    5
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Dennis B
    Check the bottom right corner
     
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  4. Kidasters

    Kidasters Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 4, 2013
    480
    Houston, Tx
    Full Name:
    Ken
    I looked at it about 10 times before I figured it out.

    On the top one - look at the nub where the "i" used to be.

    Bottom one, it's smooth for the GTS.
     
  5. built2grind

    built2grind Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 16, 2016
    321
    The Peninsula
    Full Name:
    ANDREW
    Went and had my ‘84 QV California smog tested again. Gotta love how California digs in our pockets every 2 years for this. Well jokes on them, it blew so clean I shouldn’t have a problem next time either. I ended up installing a new to me OEM catalytic converter last time (2 years ago) along with new exhaust gaskets and valve adjustment. It’s been running at optimum performance for over 2 years now with no maintenance other than fuel and regular mileage use! I haven’t even changed the oil in 2 years !
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  6. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    5,751
    Sir not changing the oil in two years will cost you eventually. It’s the cheapest thing you can do for the health of the engine
     
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  8. built2grind

    built2grind Formula Junior
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    Oct 16, 2016
    321
    The Peninsula
    Full Name:
    ANDREW
    Unfortunately I have only put 200-250 miles on it since last major in late 2018 (shame on me). I see no need to change the oil simply because of age. When I hit 1000+ on the trip it will definetly get drained. Thanks for the input and concern, it’s always appreciated.
     
  9. Harry-SZ

    Harry-SZ F1 Rookie

    @Rosey: The first bagde still has a small tab on the 'S' where the "i" was attached previously
     
  10. 48969

    48969 Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Jun 27, 2020
    76
    Chicago, Illinois
    Full Name:
    J. Michael Collins
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  11. jsumnertx

    jsumnertx Karting
    Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2004
    134
    Austin
    Spent the afternoon on my back under the dash staring at the wiring harness. Decided to clean up stuff previous owners had done between 1979 and 1997.

    After 10 minutes wedged under the dash, realized the job would be way easier with the drivers seat out. Fortunately that's easy to do. Also gave me a chance for some driver's area vacuuming.

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    Removed a switch under the passenger dash that I think was used for anti-theft. It wasn't connected any more but looks to have disabled the fuel pump. Wiring didn't look factory.

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    Dug into the rats-nest someone created from the stereo install. It was loosely tied up under the steering wheel. I'd use the term "bailing wire" but I'm not sure it was even that good. Got it nice and wrapped, straightened out, and tucked up behind the heater rather than threatening to fall on my leg. Moved the antenna cable that was threatening to get jammed up in the throttle pedal.

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    Found an interesting yellow wire running from the fuse box for the instrument lights (right fuse block #5) all the way across the bottom of the harness, behind the radio, under the steering column, and spliced in to the yellow supply to the oil pressure gauge instrument lighting input. The wire is the same style as factory but was held by 3 black zip-ties that clearly aren't. Left it in place until it’s more clear why it’s there. Maybe it’s to bypass the instrument cluster dimmer.

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    Removed the clock. It's been missing the adjustment hand since I got it but now it doesn't even move. Time for a trip to PA Speedo or one of the others. While I was in there, found that the backup frunk release does indeed work. That was good news. My rear one doesn't seem to work - need to find a thread on that one. Also found the emergency light socket (part 40179301) was broken. Not like I've ever used it in 22 years or even have the light. Strangely the socket is glass. Is the replacement really only $16? Sign me up.

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    Finally got the battery tender cable run from the battery posts to the grille so it’s way easier to connect. Some future owner can say “yeah. That’s not factory...” and we come full circle.
     
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  13. eulk328

    eulk328 F1 Rookie

    Feb 18, 2005
    2,729
    Full Name:
    F683
    wow........ just wow
     
  14. JC Andruet

    JC Andruet Karting

    Jan 16, 2013
    170
    200-250 miles in one run or several smaller 25 mile runs ? If so, that's just fine, but if those miles have been the result of a host of short trips, you'll be filling the sump with gas and water, and the oil will be breaking down, if not through contamination, then through age.

    Richard Widman
    Analysist for cause/effect mechanical problems and oil analyst.

    How often should you change your car's oil if you drive it less than 1000 miles per year ?

    "I have analyzed over 5000 oils over the last 15 years or so, and continuously see this situation, even in my own case with my classic cars. I can't possibly drive all four of them enough. I also see it with farm machinery that is used for our to 6 months a year and then sits. So here are the highlights:

    Never start the engine unless you are going to drive it. The idea of using it to charge the battery is damaging. the oil must get hot to burn off the moisture condensed from the air.

    If it is because you store if for several months and just use it in the summer, change it before storing, then drive normally until the next time you park it for a while. Always store it with fresh, or relatively fresh oil.

    If your trips are few, but at least 10 miles per trip in warm weather, one year is fine with today's good oils. I will admit to forgetting, having just changed my Corvair at 18 months. I sent it off to the lab to see how it is. I sell oil and filters, plus own two oil change facilities, so my 1 year policy is not based on saving money, but on experience with oil analysis.

    If your trips are short, I'd cut it to 6–9 months, although synthetic could make it through the year. If you drive in a very cold environment, stay with the 6 month no matter what oil unless those miles are enough to get the engine good and hot each time. Sometimes helpful to block off some of the cold air flow around the engine, as some of the big trucks do in Canada and other cold places.

    Sending it out for analysis won't tell you too much unless you have a point of reference, especially for the cost. Labs charge the average retail customer $25 to $30. I pay less than $10 and have experience in relating all the results to others and in the engines I have built.

    Forget your manual. It was not written for your case. It was written for an average usage.

    Shelf life of oil has nothing to do with it. Once you open the container, it begins to oxidize. Once you contaminate it with the oil in the engine (you are only changing 80 to 85% of the oil in the engine on each change), the original shelf life is irrelevant.

    Be on the alert for sludge when you look into the filler, or when you drain the oil. If you see sludge building, start taking longer trips, or change more frequently"
     
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  15. absostone

    absostone F1 Veteran
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    Jul 28, 2008
    5,751
    ? Elaborate?
     
  16. built2grind

    built2grind Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 16, 2016
    321
    The Peninsula
    Full Name:
    ANDREW
    Thankyou for all that info, greatly appreciated. To add more to the story for clarification purposes, the car has driven 317 miles in 2 years. A few longer hits around the peninsula at 60-75 miles each averaging 6-8 months in between trips, with some smaller 20-30 mile trips just to move the car back and forth between my house and shop. After a lengthy warm up of course. It will be going in for a “routine” oil / fluid service and general inspection this late spring/early summer but I see no need to change the oil every 3-4 months or even 6-9 months if not driven nor driven hard enough simply because oil manufactures or factory book says to. I do not need to “winterize” my car either as I don’t live in a drastic climate change region, we average 65 degrees 9 months out of year with no snow ever. I do need to keep a tender on it though.

    In the future I will be sure to consult with my factory trained Ferrari mechanic of this era on this issue as I may be overlooking the obvious as stated and recommended in earlier posts. Everyone’s opinion and suggestions are always welcomed and appreciated, Thankyou to all that offered their opinion.....
     
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  17. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    376
  18. Hinecker

    Hinecker Formula Junior

    Mar 14, 2011
    376
    Sorry! I repeated pictures:(
    Bottom one is my pony:)

    John
     
  19. st@ven

    st@ven F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 4, 2008
    3,061
    Netherlands
    Full Name:
    Steven
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  20. Miklas

    Miklas Karting

    Dec 10, 2018
    52
    Luxembourg
    That looks like a fun exercise to try to get in and out!
     
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  21. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
    Silver Subscribed Owner

    Feb 24, 2006
    14,301
    Cerritos, CA.
    Full Name:
    Mike
    Love the timing belt door handle :)
     
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  22. dinoart

    dinoart Formula Junior
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    Oct 30, 2004
    463
    Westminster CA
    Full Name:
    David
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  23. dinoart

    dinoart Formula Junior
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    Oct 30, 2004
    463
    Westminster CA
    Full Name:
    David
  24. lm2504me

    lm2504me Formula Junior
    Silver Subscribed

    Aug 26, 2004
    756
    Nipomo, CA
    Full Name:
    Richard
    I modified a S159B distributor to provide firing of the rear and forward bank ignition coils. The modification consisted of the installation of two new base plates, a long and short point set, and aluminum adapter plate under long set to position the long point set to be 135 degrees from short point set. (45 degree increment) I fixed the base plate to the aluminum plate. The whole aluminum assembly is moveable. Set up the distributor on my distributor tester and verified correct centrifugal advance curve.
    Another thing, I did several test drives with the modded S159B and it ran great, but when I returned home, my engine would not shut off after a drive and turning the ignition switch off. After three times of failing intermittently, I replaced the electrical contact block on the rear of the ignition switch with a new one.
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