Today, after six months in storage,I removed the cover, connected the battery, got in the car, put the key in the ignition, turned it, and after about 10 second she kicked right over and ran smooth as silk. 37 years in a row. No gas stabilizer, no trickle charger, nothing. I love fuel injection.
Took the day off and drove to Roosevelt Lake east of Phoenix. Nice 235 mile drive without the weekend traffic. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I sat with my victory, a finally dry garage floor, after a new gearbox oil gasket and subsequent test drive. This might not seem like much to you who know what they’re doing, but this was awesome for this amateur who does his best.
Baby steps. Timing belt covers and a/c mount. Working an hour or so each night after blowing out two discs so have to be super careful during the mend. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fuel line night. Aeroquip StartLite -6 hose. Looks similar enough to the OEM line and has NHRA legal specs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I set my tire pressures on the 328 , in preparation for my first drive of 2023, when that happens, Im not sure right at the moment, but its coming. Im also charging my new Ipod classic, getting ready to load it from my Itunes library . I cant drive without music. Big G
I pulled the engine lid from my 328 using rope loops and ratchet straps. I had no one who could help me, so I did it by myself. I undid all the connections, raised it up a few inches so it was suspended, then drove the car forward, out from under it. After that I just slowly lowered it to the floor a little at a time, one corner at a time. Setting up the straps and rope loops took about an hour, and the rest took maybe 30 minutes. I removed it so I could remove the louvers for refinishing, and to remove the spoiler. Also, access to the top of the fuel filter is MUCH better without the lid and struts in the way. That's the other thing I'll do while I have the lid off. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
More putting stuff back today. About 2 hours away from starting her up. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice way to do it. I haven't had the need to take my engine lid off yet but I am hoping I can use the front forks on my tractor (with some carpet/padding).
Stripped and serviced my axles/cv joints. Thanks Birdman. And got my old broken rear window out, so I can get a new one made up. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bit of advice, and a subject that has been addressed before in the forum. I'd disconnect the choke cable and remove the choke connecting rods/linkage between the carburetors. Any tuning of those carbs that you do can easily be undermined by a sticking choke mechanism. I had my choke disconnected/linkages removed over 10 years ago on advice of a reputable independent shop here in CT and can't say that I miss it. Might have to spend a bit more time manually warming the car up by using the throttle, but I think it's a fair tradeoff to avoid the possibility of the choke sticking.
AC all back together and new idler bearings. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Spent 14 hours working on a every electrical problem my 1975 Dino 308 GT4 had, and a couple of other things! The car was developing a slew of electrical issues: interior dome/door lights don’t work, headlights, parking lights, and dashboard lights don’t illuminate either. Additionally, my windows were unusually slow (not the typical slow), my driver’s door would not unlock, and both doors were very stiff (hard to open and close). The good news? EVERY issue has been resolved and sorted! The bad news? None! Haha, well, I mean there’s still other things to do concerning other parts of the car, but everything I set out to do during this session was accomplished. For the headlights, parking lights, and dashboard lights, the issue was simply a failed relay. The dome/door lights was a grounding issue… that took HOURS to find and solve. The window issue turned out to be a bad cable routing job (on both doors - the cable that goes around the whole pulley system was not routed correctly and was overly tight in some positions, yet incredibly loose in other positions). The door lock issue just needed some lubricant, and the open/close issue needed the door catches adjusted. Long, tiring, but very productive day. I’m still stiff and sore the next day!! Now I can tackle some of the more "cosmetic" jobs I've been neglecting as I really wanted to address the non-functioning (or poorly-functioning) stuff first. Image Unavailable, Please Login
sounds like you had an awesome day. Congratulations on completing your list. Electrical gremlins are the worst kind.
Getting mine ready to do the belts and a full service for the summer outings Image Unavailable, Please Login
Lub service . 8.6 L of this ,It’s done only 1 k kms since last Mays lub service .Also adjusted the parking brake up to 4 clicks …..for now ! Its mega Zinced out the oil for engines from the 60 s + 70 s . Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Image Unavailable, Please Login Found this photo on FB. A George Baris custom. The dash is really kewl.
