What is best method to repair rust spot behind rear 1/4 panel louver on 328 | FerrariChat
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What is best method to repair rust spot behind rear 1/4 panel louver on 328

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by dhs-9, Jul 30, 2005.

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  1. dhs-9

    dhs-9 Formula Junior

    Feb 6, 2004
    292
    #1 dhs-9, Jul 30, 2005
    It seems my 328 suffers from a small rust spot (size if half doller) behind the rear 1/4 panel louver. I hear this is not unusual. I have a few methods of repair what do you guys thinkis best

    1. Use dremel to grind down to clean metal then prime and use touch up paint. Or should I put down a skim coat of bondo before paint. The surface is rough and not very even.

    2. Use the rust converter (por-15?) first then prime and paint. Can I put bondo over the rust converter to smooth out finish before paint

    3. After either conversion or ginding seal in fibreglass resin or epxy then paint

    Since the area is the size half dollar I thtink I would rather use spray paint rather than touch up bottle. Anyone know where I can get rosso corsa in small spray.
    Any other suggestion would be wlecome.

    Thanks

    Dave
     
  2. spang308

    spang308 Formula Junior

    Jul 17, 2004
    893
    York, PA
    #2 spang308, Jul 30, 2005
    1. Use a dremel with wire brash attachment to clean area.
    2. Use rust converter (insert favorite brand here).
    3. Skim with body filler. Try Glasurit combi-putty if it is a real thin coat.
    4. Primer.
    5. Spray color.
    6. Spray clear coat.
    7. Wetsand with 1500 or 2000 grit paper.
    8. Buff.

    Fixed. Contact your local auto body supply store. They can mix factory color in spray cans for small jobs like this. Your car came with Glasurit most likely, but you can use PPG, DuPont, etc. Just give the store the paint code located on the underside of your engine cover.

    Good luck,
    john
     
  3. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2003
    17,805
    wisconsin/chicago
    Full Name:
    bo
    #3 bpu699, Jul 30, 2005
    Unless you cut out ALL OF THE RUST, it will come right back the first time you wash your car. Also, don't forget to seal the inner metal with tar spray...

    Long and short of it - unless you replace the bad metal with good...it will come right back.
     
  4. dhs-9

    dhs-9 Formula Junior

    Feb 6, 2004
    292
    #4 dhs-9, Aug 1, 2005
    I put down the base coat 4-5 light coats and then the clear coat 3 light coats and 3 medium coats to bring up the gloss. My questionis the smooth glossy finish extends from the metal rigtht onto the masking tape. I am afraid when I remove the tape the paint and the clear coat will come with it and make an uneven line or worse take up alot of the paint or clear coat. If I let it dry overnight is this a concern
     
  5. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
    Consultant Owner

    May 5, 2001
    7,022
    Groton, MA
    Full Name:
    Verell Boaen
    #5 Verell, Aug 1, 2005
    If the paint is properly bonded to the underlying surface, it'll break at the tape line.Loosten the edge of the tape away from the paint line & lift the tape by the loose edge. Then bend the tape over towards the newly finished area, using the paint as a 'hinge'. This should cause the paint to break cleanly at the tape edge.

    For future reference, if you fold a strip of paint & put it on with one side at 90 degrees to the surface, the paint will feather edge up to the flap & you won't have a distinct paint line like a straight tape edge leaves.
     
  6. spang308

    spang308 Formula Junior

    Jul 17, 2004
    893
    York, PA
    #6 spang308, Aug 1, 2005
    Follow Verells advise. Be careful. Get the tape off ASAP.

    Wetsand with a flat, flexible sanding block. Start with 2000 grit and see if you can track down some 3000 grit to remove sanding scratches. Then compound, glaze and seal. I wouldn't wait more than two days to wetsand or the clear gets hard as a brick.

    I just blocked my freshly painted car last week and let it sit for a few days before going back over it with 3000. Pain in the ass, but worth the effort.

    Good luck,
    John
     
  7. peajay

    peajay Formula Junior

    Apr 17, 2002
    454
    near Paris, France
    Full Name:
    Paul
    #7 peajay, Aug 2, 2005
    I don't beleive the 328 has a color and clear coat paint system, that came on later cars.
     
  8. dhs-9

    dhs-9 Formula Junior

    Feb 6, 2004
    292
    #8 dhs-9, Aug 2, 2005
    1. Verell let me see if I understnd you. You take the masking tape and fold it in half and place the folded edge towrds the surface to be painted? Do you advise right after each coat of primer and each coat of base and clear to remove tape and then reapply. Because between coats I dry paint to nearly tack free with hair blower to save time. I'm not clear as to how to avoid the tape line

    2. Also what grit to use to rough up the existing good glossy paint for primer to stick to it without causing excesive sanding scratches.

    3. SInce the rust is only in the corner and the rest of the paint looks so good do you guys think I could just prime the rust area after POR-15 and bondo area and then put down base paint only in the area of repair and mist it into the exisitng good paint and polish. Willl this look terrible.

    4. Can I just put down base coat and then polish it up without clear coat. What is best? The clear coat needs to be put down heavy to start to look glossy and this means more chance of lifting and more orange peel. I hate painting!

    5. Lastly do I need to rough up POR-15 before bondo and if so what grit.

    Thanks!!!
     

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