What is the torque for CV joint screws?

it's 80Nm

I re-used the nuts only replaced the damaged ones. I did not use loctite

 

I replaced all...easy enough and not expensive.

Somebody double check my torque specs.

Axle shaft flange to wheel shaft - 158.5 ft. lb.

Axle shaft to flanges - 57.5 ft. lb.

I don't note using loc-tite as the nuts were of locking variety

 

Can't find my repair notes this a.m......and I just had to post number 300 for me.

 

And also of note.....it's a messy job. Very, very messy.

There's a great step-by-step around here somewhere, I'll see if I can dig it up.

 

bingo...

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78188&highlight=replace+cv+boots

 

It does seem like a lot of torque. I got my replacements from Tacoma Screw & Fastener and if I remember, they gave some good advice.

I wish I could find my notes to see what I really did, but since the move, things have been difficult to locate.

Hopefully somebody else will chime in....

 

I let the nuts soak for a long time with the liquid wrench. A daily application over a week or so....and it wasn't too horrible.

 

I'm pretty sure both flanges have the same torque to be applied: 80 Nm

 

This spec: "Axle shaft flange to wheel shaft - 158.5 ft. lb. is not for the CV joint to flange bolts. There's no way that a 10 or 12mm Grade 12.9 fastener would withstand that torque without breaking! The figure you reference is likely for the stub axle flange, within the rear upright that sets the preload on the rear wheel bearings.

As both the inner and outter CV joint hardware is the same nut and bolt confirguration, the torque specs would be the same as you correctly referenced as 57.5 ft-lbs.

And I too never saw the need to use any LockTite products on these fasteners, as the nuts (particularly if new) are of the "self-locking" variety...

Regards,
David

 

All the VWs I've dealt with have a different system on the wheel side than Ferrari. The VW has a splined snout that slides through the center of the wheel bearing and has a big ol' nut on the end. This nut has some serious torque applied to it! Next time you see a VW without a wheel cover (situation normal for about 90% of busses for some reason, you can see this nut). Actually this also seems satndard for front drive cars. So that's the reason for torque differences.

 

Thanks David....

Found my notes this a.m. and used the 57.5 ft lbs. w/o loc-tite.

 

Straight from the workshop manual for the 308.
8kgm which works out to 57.9 ft/lb.
I have used this torque setting with no probs.
The larger figure (158.5) is for the flange to wheel shaft from the Diff.
Yes that is a high figure but a large nut and thread to boot. 27mm as opposed to 10mm.

Steve

 

Yes, it's a lot of torque for those nuts. They are supposed to be TIGHT and that's why they are so hard to remove in many cases. I would not recommend using loc-tite unless you never ever plan to remove them again! 57 ft-lbs plus loc-tite=stuck!

I have reused the bolts no problem. Just replace the ones that get messed up during removal.

Birdman

 

FYI....not to nitpick, but some of you are misusing the torque units. It is ft-lb, spoken "foot pound" or "pound feet" and calculated as: force times the length of the moment arm, in this case feet. (A better unit is actually the Si unit Nm, Newton meters, because Newton is a true unit of force, as opposed to a pound.)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque

It's not expressed as ft/lb or lb/ft as some have been using.

Birdman

 

Just finished the same job last month...the 57.5 number is what I used. Plenty of torque. No Loctite

It did feel closer to the high number getting them off though! Lots of brute force and PB Blaster.

 

just finished mine.
a little heat from a torch loosened the nuts quite well.
i used a thin metal band pulled tightly on my boots with no worries.
i've never had a boot cut through by a band.
the bands you've shown are good.
i wouldn't use a plastic tie though.
too much heat and oil.
torqued both sides to 58 ftlbs although i set my wrench at 60.