Can someone start a treat with % on what oil everyone uses? Logs look like it is all over the place
PLEASE use the search function. This is a LONG DEBATE. Basically, use a decent XX-40 or 20-50 synthetic. If you want to be really retentive, or track.race your car, install a new filter and new oil, use car for 3-days of track use or 3k miles, send oil to Blackstone for analysis. THEN with said analysis you can start to get an idea as to what oil is best for your engine by tracking the wear metals over a course of time with multiple Blackstone analysis. Below is track used 1985 308GTS QV with Mobil 1 0W-40 synth. Image Unavailable, Please Login
It is a fair question as oils are always changing. Keeping up to date is not easy. The best answer though is use a name brand oil, try it, get an oil analysis then maybe stick with it or try another. The way you drive and your engine in your environment will determine what works. There is no one oil that works all the time or we would all be using it. aehaas
Oil viscosity is only half the story on selecting a fit-for-purpose motor oil for your Ferrari or Porsche or sports car. Of paramount importance, especially for the cam to "tappet" interface (is actually a line contact) is the amount of "anti wear additive" or ZDDP (zinc dialkyl dithiosphosphate) in the oil. Commonly measured as the ppm (parts per million) of "zinc" and "phosphorus" in the oil. Unfortunately because of EPA and Cat concerns, most oil companies have been decreasing the zinc and phosphorus contents (some down to dangerous levels) in their API-SM (latest oil industry rating) and especially their "energy saving" oils. For excellent information on this subject, and listings on Zn and P content on most of the popular motor oils, including motor cycle and diesel services, which actually well may be better for your car, see http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
I'd park it, until you find the AGIP 10-50W on the nameplate........ I stopped by the AGIP offices here but they said they just drill for it......
Oil recommendations are a big scam... Just drain your oil and fill up with soapy water . Ever wash your hands with soap? Its slippery, isn't it? Good enough for your hands, good enough for your motor. It will clean up all of that nasty sludge too. Now, what is the viscosity of soapy water? I guess 0-0. So, should be good for startup too. Now, you may want to add some alcohol to it, so it doesn't freeze in the winter, or a pinch of salt - whatever is handy. This also prevents the critical issue of oil/coolant mixing with a bad head gasket . See, it doesn't matter any more. All known problems solved. But what if my oil pressure is now low, you ask? Not a big deal. Its not the new water pressure thats an issue. Its the water flow that creates the lubrication. Plus, don't forget the soap. Now, don't cheap out on the soap selection. It is a ferrari after all. Go get Dawn (Ferrari/SPA endorsed), and get the brand name only. Mix 50:50 with water. Pour in in, and you are good to go. If your rings or valve guides are bad, it doesn't matter. When you use oil, it smokes. With my solution, it just blows pretty bubbles out the tail pipe. Kids love it! PS: In order to legally protect myself: Try this at your own risk. If you are challenged enoughto think I was serious, you likely deserve the consequences. Your engine may fail .
What about cooking oil it can lubricate like oil and it can withstand tremendous amount of heat, just thought I ask please don't get mad at me.
Based on the good Dr Haas's detailed writings and a belief in better flow = better lubrication, i am going to use Mobile-1 0-20, in my cool northern coastal climate. This weekend, i will install a larger Mocal cooler, Aeroquip lines and fittings, (-12), a 180 degree mocal thermostat and an auxiliary, temp controlled booster fan mounted to the cooler. This should get the temp up quickly and hopefully keep the temp down on hard driving. When the car gets tracked, I will need to bump the topside rating to 30-40-50 depending on the oil temps encountered. Will probably start with a 0-40, barring suggestions to the contrary, (for sure, i could use some help). Who has a good synthetic with "better" ZDP levels for those of us not afflicted with cats??? Will post photos, pressures and temps. slip sliding away chris
Dude, You may use a bit of vegetable oil in cooking and a lot of it in your "personal life". for sure Cocoanut oil smells 'enticing" - but use it in your steed???? or Peanut" oil??? On a more serious note, (and less personal )) What ever happened to Castor Bean oil?, Now that really smelled good at the track?? dead serious, chris
Dozens of threads on what people use. What I use or Enjoythemusic or Rifledriver is, in many respects, irrelevant to what you should use. First, what car are you talking about? How often do you drive it? How are? Daily driver? Track car? Driving conditions? Temperature ranges? Driving style? There are a lot of variables that go into what's the "right" oil for your car. The fact that I ran Castrol 20W50 in my old Mondial, use it in my 308 and my Jaguar XKEs and Mobil 1 0W30 in my Corvette probably say nothing about what you should use in your 348, 355, 360, 430 or your Suburu. IMHO, as I said earlier, this thread is a waste. It's the same as all the other "oil" threads. I recognize that Dr. Haas was being generous, but in the end, if you read what he wrote, you could make your own decision about what's right for your own car(s).
Those motors often had bigger bearing clearences than are in vogue now so with 20 weight you may encounter pressure problems.
