What type of car lift...?

Even though I have a high ceiling (12'), I'm seriously considering a scissor jack. In the 355, not much needs to be worked on under the center of the car (just shift linkage and some pipes) and the big thing for me is they are portable. I have seen a few people bring them to the track which, considering I do some racing, is attractive. Not so much for the 355, but a few friends and I race a 944 in endurance stuff so a lift at the track would be a major benefit. The only thing is I'd have to bring my own 220v source as they can be tough to find at a track, but I have a portable generator so that wouldn't be a problem.

I'm not sure how much your garage door opener hangs down, but I have a similar situation where they didn't put the mechanism close to the ceiling and I'd have to have it modified, but it's not too expensive to have that done.

 

I have a Mohawk 2 post asymmetric. My 355 has been on it for probably 3 weeks now as I slowly chug through the Dave Helms gold connector kit and some other maintenance. I love it. I have a 10 foot ceiling, and it is one of the lowest overall height lifts out there.

There is plenty on a 355 that is accessed underneath that I think would be completely obstructed by a scissor lift. I am not even sure you could change the oil with one. Scissor lifts are portable and inexpensive, and they are great for suspension work or if you spend a lot of time prepping for the track - perfect for the type of thing bobzdar is talking about. But I don't think it would be nearly as convenient for doing a variety of work on a 355 as a 2 post lift. I can't see how you could possibly do a major service with a scissor.

With a 2 post you will need a minimum strength/thickness slab (I think it is 8 inches). I did it when we were building the house, and the garage floor was poured to spec. If it is not up to it, you might have to re-enforce, and I don't know how difficult that would be.

As for the garage door, I went with iDrive:

http://www.wayne-dalton.com/DirectDrive.asp

 

Some options I have been considering. My garage has roughly 8' ceiling. Would be nice to have the option to pull the lift outside and work there.

http://www.eagleequip.com/automotive-shop-equipment/scissor-lifts.html
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_auto-repair+automotive-lifts+scissor-lifts

 

I think with the lift points on the 355, a scissor lift would be forward of where most things are accessed from underneath. It would for sure restrict access to the center tunnel (shift linkage and hoses etc.) but everything from the firewall back should be accessible, but I guess it would depend on how much you can move the lift pads around. I plan to check one out in the next month or two, but yeah for sure if you can't do a major using one it would probably not be worth it even with the convenience of track use.

The eagle mid-rise linked above is the one I plan to check out.

 

I will admit this one from Mohawk is less restrictive than I thought:

http://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/consumer/browse-lifts/scissor-lifts/usl-6000/

But keep in mind that you simply HAVE to have support at the back of the car to lift it safely. I have the rear arms under the engine sub frame all the way back at the rear wheels.

My buddy's scissor is different and much more restrictive than some others.

 

A friend recently recommended this scissor:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOBILE-SCISSOR-CAR-LIFT-RAMP-NARROW-MODEL-NOT-2-POST-1-2M-LIFTTING-832-50-VAT-/120836913430?pt=UK_Lifting_Moving_Equipment&hash=item1c2270f916

I don't know anything about it but he indicated that it did allow them to completely drop the rear subframe when doing a major on a TR.

They also have a narrow version for little cars like MGs.

 

I don't have a 355 yet but I do have one of these:
http://www.ezcarlift.com/index.html

I too have a low ceiling height in my garage and wanted something that was easy to store and also mobile. It gives pretty much full access to the center of the car too. It's a little expensive for what amounts to a large mechanical scissor jack but it's simplicity and ease of use are just what I wanted/needed.

If portability is important to you, I can tell you that it breaks down and can be loaded into a truck in 15 minutes or less. It fit into the back of my wife's Mercedes wagon easily. Here's a picture of my BMW on it... I find working on a creeper under the car is easier if it's not at full height.
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Have you considered this lifting system?

http://www.dannmar.com/dannmar-products/two-post-lifts/maxjax.asp

A 10 foot ceiling wouldn't be an issue with this either.

Cheers.

 

That's the one hands down! I have one and would recommend it to anyone. You can set it up in about 5 minutes and tear it down in the same and roll the components out of the way. I got it from garagesupply for about $1900 shipped a couple of years ago. I did my major with it, no problem.

 

I have this Snap-on mid rise lift. Works great with a low ceiling. Scored it used off of Craigslist for $600.00. Low cieling of 8'9" and only 4" off the ground.

David
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Its portable because you move it out of the way when you are done with it. Yes, its bolted down when you are using it but the rest of the time its off in a corner of the garage not in the way. And I already asked on another post here and yes it will lift the car high enough for a 355 engine out, so mine gets here Wednesday morning

I also have a scissor lift and I doubt you could do a engine out with it too much of the lower half of the scissor in the way.

 

4-post lifts are great for car storage but are cumbersome for suspension work. And not very portable.

 

Those jacks would help but the main ramps will still be in the way. Yes, it's better than no lift at all but IMO, if you need storage space get a 4-post, for service a two-post is better. If space is a concern, there are many compromise options available. For me, I compromised on the mechanical one I posted above and for me it works great and I have no regrets.

 

I have a 4 post lift. It it is 100 times better than no lift even for suspension work.

 

You're good. For the maxjax you install 10 anchors (drill and then install) 5 for each post. These anchors stay in the floor and you just roll the maxjax over them and install the 5 bolts each and you are good to go. Your concrete is plenty strong with a 4000 lb mix and the fiber mesh. The main thing they want you to do is be a few inches away from the exterior walls so you have enough concrete span. Another nice feature of the maxjax is you can get extra anchors and have multiple lift areas, such as another garage.
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I believe 4000psi is more than enough, don't they require 3000psi and 4 inch concrete?

 

the maxjax is so tempting for me altough, I would like something that can lift more weight That way I could work on the 4x4 when needed.