What's the proper way to install a 308 oil filter?

I let my 308 sit over night so the oil drains out of the filter, then loosen the oil filter. Nothing leaks out. It is easier then my other cars to change.

 

I've never put any oil in mine before fitting, though I did lube the seal.

 

Yes, Yes. Rag to mop up. I crank engine w/o fuel for a couple of cycles to see something on the guage before I try to start after an oil change.

 

I usually run the engine for 10-15 minutes and then put it on the lift and drain the oil pan. Then I'll take a punch and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter (really the top as you look at it) . Then I go out and get a beer and some paper towels. Come back in 10 minutes and cover the timing hole under the filter and unscrew the filter. Just take the filter and put it in a can and then clean up any excess oil . Just finger wet the new filter seal with oil and screw it on. Fill up the engine with 9 liters (2.34gals) of Castrol 20-50W oil and start it up. Done , now go drive it and enjoy the ride.

 

First time I did it, the filter didn't seal correctly and my engine bay got a nice oil shower, and my garage floor a nice oil coating. Is there a tip to making sure it's properly seated or tightened? May have been a bad filter. That was in my early days when I didn't know any better. Purolator (sp?) I think. Got a half dozen Baldwins now thanks to Senor Sodacom.

Thanks.

 

Same here.

 

Guys,

Went down to my local Baldwin dealer and asked for the B253 recommended and they offered me the B2 which they claim supersedes the B253. Is this correct? Can I use the B2?

Can anyone shed light on this???

Thanks.

 

B2 is the normal duty filter, listed as a replacement for the motorcraft FL1A. Specs say nothing about having a standpipe.

B253 is the heavy duty racing filter and has a standpipe.

B2 is $5, B253 is $12. You get what you pay for in this case. Insist on the B253.

links here: B253 - http://www.adiesel.com/prodinfo.php?itemid=3156

B2 - http://www.adiesel.com/prodinfo.php?itemid=2821

 

Thanks Bandit.

As you would have it, they don't carry B253s and now want to provide a MANN W940 from Germany.

CTK

 

NOT.

Just lube the seal, install per instructions on filter.

 

let sit for an hour, put rags around base, lossen, spin off quickly, not much should come out, if it does the rags will catch it. I use castrol 20/50 too. Here is where i got my filters from: buy 4 at a time





http://www.adiesel.com/searchitems.php
Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

Are Dave, Dan and me the only ones who read the original question? He wants to know about installing a NEW filter, not how to remove the old one!

Anyway, just lube the seal, don't worry about filling it first.

 

Yeah, what Mike said.

Greg,
If you are just changing the filter to lose the Fram, just let the car sit overnight and all the oil will be out of the Fram. Just unscrew it and screw the new one on. There is no need to fill with oil. There is no way you would be able to put the thing on without getting oil everywhere.

Contrary to what people say about the standpipe and the anti-drain valve, they don't hold oil that long. After a day, the oil gets out.

Tips:

After you unscrew the Fram, clean the surface on the engine where the oil filter seals. Just wipe it with a rag to be sure there is no grit or anything on there. Next, wipe a little oil on the seal of the new filter to lube it. This prevents the rubber gasket on there from binding and leaking. Now just screw it down "hand tight". Meaning, do not use a tool to tighten it. It has a rubber gasket. Make it snug by hand. It will be fine. If you over torque it, it will be a b*tch to get off!

If the Fram is stuck and you don't have an oil filter wrench large enough (those are big filters) just punch a hole through it (do not drill! No metal filings in the engine!) and use a long screwdriver to loosen.


Birdman