I'm sure you've all noticed the change in formulation for this product over the last few years but I have a question. I have not been able to find a brand/formulation that's not really harmful to plastics or paint. Not your body color paint but let's say engine compartment paints and plastics. It even removes the powder wrinkle paint on my valve covers. It's a pretty effective paint remover now. I've tried CRC, Wallmart house brand and others. Has anyone found a decent brand of this stuff or are we all just basically screwed now? This stuff doesn't evaporate all that well either. I guess that's part of the plan though. Bob S.
It is highly unlikely that you will find anything that isn't harmfull to the environment, From what I see it is almost the same stuff used to clean electrical contactors, I actually looked in cabinet that we keep caustic fluids, and we have all the products from loctite. They all pretty much smell the same, looks like they leave the same residue when they dry up. I did notice that the electrical contact cleaner was less visible when it dried. Maybe you are out of luck, But, I may suggest Simple Green, and little elbo grease Good luck
Since when did brake cleaner not harm plastic and paint??? There are some varieties that are made specially to not harm the rubber parts on your brake calipers, but they still damage most paints. Last I checked, CRC offered two varieties (regular and "won't harm rubber"), and I think Napa did, too. One CRC was in a red can and the other in a green can. I think the type of brake cleaner that does not harm rubber seals is also called "non chlorinated", but this is off of the top of my head, and someone else on here may correct me on that. - Tony
Tony, how long you been around? I used to be able to use it with great caution (rubber parts) for cleaning up stubborn grease and things like when a CV boot lets go. That I would follow up with a spray of paint thinner and dry with compressed air. At the track the other day I had to clean up a portion of my valve covers to fix an oil leak and I had to really be careful because it strips the paint. It never did that till relatively recently last 5 years or so. One still needs a de-greaser for these situations and no simple green won't do. Bob S.
Clarification on non-chlorinated -- this is the one that doesn't leave residue. This page from CRC's web site has both kinds: http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/search_results.aspx Bob, I've been working on cars since 1990, and I've never seen a type of brake cleaner that didn't warn of damaging paint. And you know paints applied directly to metal (like valve covers) always come off easier than those over primer, etc. I always used brake cleaner or carb cleaner strictly for non-painted metal parts, and degreaser in engine bays, etc. I can't stand the spray can degreasers, but the purple Castrol stuff in the jug seems to be a nice compromise between effective and gentle. I just checked NAPA's web site, and they have 2-4 different varieties of brake cleaner from each of several manufacturers. I'm pretty sure that one of them says in small print on the can "won't harm rubber seals", but you'd probably have to go to the store and read each one. To be honest, the last time I bought a can labelled "won't harm rubber seals [on your brake parts]" was in Naples, FL, in 2000. All I remember is that it was a blue can, hence why I think it was a NAPA. Sorry for the goofy post!
Electrical contact cleaner is what you want it you are looking for something safe for plastics I think. For brake cleaner, I've started using the cheap walmart stuff because it hasn't been reformulated and is still the same off dangerous chemicals. Carb cleaner is also great as already mentioned.
In my experience, brake cleaners have taken a nose dive in recent years, due to the emissions laws & all the hype stirred up from tree-hugging hippies. Having said that..... I used "Wurth" products out on the east coast, and managed to secure a couple cases before the initial mix was banned a couple years ago. The mix they went to (in order to comply with new state/federal laws) didn't seem as effective, but we were only being stubborn. Most of the newer stuff may require a little elbow grease & a soft brush to stir up the gunk we're trying to clean off with it. Then rinse with more brake clean, wipe with a rag, & watch it dry. There's always been that one guy in the shop that says..."it won't work on the car if it doesn't give you a headache" ;-) I've used newer CRC products & can't complain.... In regards to brake cleaner residue, maybe I've been lucky, or have always had the right support (I.E. - detailing experts at my disposal), but I've never had to worry about that. I always thought it came off relatively easy (if there was any) with simple green & water, or a similar combination. It was also pointed out to me once, that a better engine bay appearance requires the same (final) cleaner to be used everywhere, to make it uniform all the way around - - you don't want one side of your engine to be bright & shiny, while the other side isn't. & yea, gotta be careful with the krinkle paint, all those little wrinkles can get liquid chemicals in them & can go bad pretty easily. :-/ I krinkle painted some of the engine parts on a 1991 audi coupe quattro last year, turned out really well! Image Unavailable, Please Login
If your looking for something that works exactly like brake cleaner but something that wont harm plastic, paint or rubber, try using Nitro car cleaner. It's a product used by Radio Controlled model car enthusiasts for cleaning model nitro fuel powered cars after use. I myself am a r/c model car fanatic and have been using this stuff on both real and toy cars for years. Also great for removing tar spots off paintwork and totally harmless to the paint finish. Great for cleaning brakes, engine components, etc. It's a bit more expensive than ordinary brake cleaner but well worth it. Available through most r/c model stockists.
When im detailing engines i use a product called Red Devil. It is a water based engine degreaser and it will clean to prefection and not ruin the paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yeah I've used the Walmart stuff but that also takes the paint off pretty easily. What ever they changed in the last 5 years it's a lot more damaging now.
Good to know but I can't use that when I'm degreasing engine parts while on the car for emergency repairs at the track. This does sound like something I might try for a big engine compartment cleanup. Who makes it? Bob S.
Ok I found it but it warns against use on aluminum. I've got a lot of exposed aluminum castings so that would concern me. Bob S.
You and I have very different approaches to vehicle maintenance though our spalling is abutt the samee. ;>)) WTF is a BECASUE?
If there are any "green" folks on this board , take a look at the chemicals in the brakeclean cans. It might surprise you. I don't think there is one that doesn't cause cancer. But it cleans everything I need it to do and it smells great, HAHAHAHA.
Dear Ferraristi, I only use brake cleaner to clean the brakes when I'm working on them. The stuff damages rubber and plastic waaay too easily not have an incident. It is great for removing that ugly yellow coating though. For cleaning the engine, I use " purple stuff" non dilluted. I go back with simple green. Simple green really leaves a nice clean finish while all the degreasers leave that whitish "washed-out" look. For the fast clean-up for your valve coves use 3M wax and adhesive remover...stuff is fantastic. It won't harm plastic, paint or rubber. In fact I use it on plastic, paint and rubber. I used to be able to get it at walmart. I just went last night and both stores were out with no counter sticker. I will source it out and let y'all know. Honestly, stuff is the best...a little expensive 5.98 a small can. But, what's the cost of that plastic part you just ruined....if you can still get it Shamile Freeze...Miami Vice !
Very nice but go back to the original starting post. I use simple green as well. It's great stuff and I do use to clean an entire engine compartment if properly diluted. But you have to be careful and flush it with a lot of water. It also melts asphalt. But this was not the original intent of this topic. We are discussing what to use in those situations where you clean grease , residue etc. in place for the sealing of mechanical assemblies. Preferably a product that doesn't destroy all the other adjoining finishes in the process. The original brakecleen formulations were better at this but yes they too had drawbacks. Paint removal wasn't one of them. It is now. The suggestion of the RC Nitro engine cleaner sounds like a good lead to follow. Oh BTW stay the h*ll away from Castrol cleaner degreaser. It will destroy your cad plating and leave raw aluminum looking like crap. Bob S.
use the non-toxic ezoff oven cleaner. Yeah you are laughing now...but give it a try followed by some water.
Right. Uses less harmful citrate salts to dissolve grease/etc. Orig easy off uses sodium hydroxide (household lye), which is very corrosive, poisonous, and vapors are irritating. BUT it really works for the really tough grime situations. NaOH really destroys most organic based compounds, thats why it works so well. You do have to cover everything around the area well, though......
As far as residue after brake cleaner, most of the compounds in it are solvents (much like those in paint brush restorer/cleaner formulations) that pretty much evaporate entirely. Methanol, toluene, acetone, xylenes, etc. These are flammable and evaporate quickly(except toluene). They are NOT though, as effective at dissolving motor oil/grime/crud/greases as the chlorinated solvents are. That is the chemistry that nature provided with us , guys, tree huggers or not. Yup, there is always something.........for every advantage there is a disadvantage...........
OK, just found out that CRC Industries makes a brake cleaner containing TCE (tetrachloroethylene), and leaves no residue. If you get residue, it cant be from the solvent, but maybe traces of the crud you are cleaning off that wasnt washed/sprayed off entirely. In which case, you could repeat process. This stuff will eat paint v badly! You must cover all area surrounding the brakes..... And TCE is not an env friendly solvent. Remember the book (or, for that matter, the movie A Civil Action)? Travolta/Duvall ? That environmental disaster was as a result of dumping (not that we "dump" when we clean brakes) TCE into local ground/water table.........just a tid bit on TCE/brake cleaner..........
