Hi Does anyone have good values for wheel alignment for track on the 430? Could not find anything in manual Thanks
If anyone is interested, I found this thread https://www.***********.com/threads/suspension-geometry-for-the-360-f430.16903/ Recommended settings there seems to be in consensus to what I have for my M3 ... slightly more camber on rear than front (I will aim for -2.5 rear -2 front) , close to zero toe front, positive toe rear.
For my scud, I’m running -3/-2.5 deg camber with 0 deg toe up front and 4mm total toe in the rear (2mm per side). Car is corner weighted as well using 430 challenge drop links and rake has been revised to 12mm.
Is Caster adjustable on these ? Where do I get the proper values? I am taking it to a shop and they said "if you supply the values, you must supply them all".. Can't find any reference to caster adjustment on the link up the top.. Thanks!
you can adjust front caster by adding additional shims to the upper and lower flamblocs closest to the chassis. I added an extra 3mm of shims to the upper and lower rear flamblocs in comparison to the upper and lower front flamblocs. I was targeting 7-8 deg of caster
How is that zero tow front working on the street? Is it stable on the freeway, tramlining much? I would like to set it to be good for street and light track duty, not going to race with it..
With the amount of negative camber (3 deg) and 0 toe there is tram lining. For me, the tram lining is an acceptable trade off for the improved steering response and feel from the revised geometry. The stock scud steering and feedback left a lot to be desired coming from a 997 gt3 and my aircooled 911s. Camber and toe settings in combination impact tram lining in my experience not just toe. I’ve run less negative camber (closer to 2 deg) in various cars (mostly 911s and m3s track/street cars) with 0 toe and tram lining is significantly reduced. me personally I’m not a fan of front toe in as it deadens the steering feel. but we’re talking about track settings right
Yes, I track my E92 M3 as well, and I have it at zero toe front, negative 1.9-2 front camber and 2.5 rear... pretty good behavior. I can't say I felt any tramlining, but that is also a byproduct of tire width and compound at times... Just thought the 430 might be a different animal and trying not to screw up... thank you . EDIT: now that I think about it, I saw the edges of my tires on the M3 to be pretty heavily scrubbed, so more camber would be nice for track me thinks.
I never touched caster (left it at stock), is there a good improvement to be had by adding 1 or 2 degrees of caster ? Stock seems to be 5.5 degrees. Thanks
I have this on my 360. While noticeable, it is not something that requires constant correction. Even though I am not tracking the 360 anymore I do not plan on changing this. It just feels so much better cornering.
Adding additional front caster will add more weight to the steering effort, which I prefer since the scuds steering was too light for my preference. More importantly, the added positive caster increases high speed stability but at the expensive of turn in which is compensated for by running 0 toe or toe out. Also, the angle of the tire is increased as more steering angle is added almost like adding more negative camber. gt cars from Porsche are set with 7-8 deg of castor from the factory for these reasons.
Ok, so here is what I am thinking for a track alignment which can be also used on the street (Autohaus is charging 700 bucks for a wheel alignment, ouch) : Front: Toe: 0mm Camber: -2.5 degrees Caster: 7 degrees Rear Toe: +4mm (total), 2 on each side Camber: -2 degrees I purposely made the front camber more than the rear. I think it's better for tracks with lots of quick transitions and not too long straights.. and very tight turns, which most of my tracks are. any opinions... Many thanks
I was called back by Roux's Garage just now; and they said that they do not have shims in stock for the F430 suspension. Options are: drop the car and they measure and leave the car there for days (no no for me) , or buy a shim kit on my own and take it there. Where do I get a "shim kit". Obviously I would need some for front and some for back, and I can see that they are different.. I can only see shims sold per piece at Ricambi... anyone has a clue? I have tools to measure camber and toe, I am sooo tempted to do it on my own now... I just don't have the time, but I might just take a day off work and do it! Thanks all
I bought a bunch of individual shims in the various sizes available for the front and rear from Eurospares and gave it to my shop to do the alignment.
Hey folks, Are there any tricks/tips to achieving over 2 degrees of negative camber on the front axle?
Thank you for the quick reply, will do! Now, are the washers to be removed from the upper and reused on the lower? Or just removed?
I reused them. I also did not use the Ferrari shims, and just added (measured) same amount of washers (bought the same size as oems from Home Depot ) behind the lower arm to get maximum camber. I added washers until the nuts holding the arm was at the limit. I got just about 2.1xx camber on both sides. Toe alignment is mandatory after that, as toe will be out of whack.
Makes sense. I bought a shim kit, hoping I could achieve my desired alignment specs with the shims, but I was running into the rod being too short (not enough threads for the nut to safely capture the arm). I wonder if they make longer bolts to solve this. Would anyone know? However, it sounds like removing the washers on the UCAs should get me where I need to be.
I am not sure, but you could just probably buy some bolts to replace them; on front. For the rears, the bolts are wedged into the flanblocks, I doubt you would be able to do it. I also found that stacking the Ferrari shims on top of each other to achieve max camber does not sit too well; I found it safer to put washers under there and tighten. Up to the max useable length of the bolt obviously...
removing the washers between the upper wish bone and the chassis should get the amount of camber you are looking for. On my scud, I’m running -3.5 deg of camber up front by removing the washers on the upper wishbone and shimming the lower control arms using the oem lower control arm studs. You can buy challenge lower control arm studs if you need more room for shims
No, scud has different geometry. I have a good camber tool, and removing the upper washers and maxing out the stock studs on lower got me just above -2. This is on 2005 F430, not sure if later years are different.
