I made those enamel style ones for my Dino. I have the Chrome version on right now. I think they look better on knock offs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Hi, I have an original one! A friend is going to reproduce it exactly as the original one. Image Unavailable, Please Login
www.dinoparts.de just made us some chrome ones for spinners on a 206GT, so if anyone needs them they are worth a try. I don't know price as they were paid for by the shop that lost the originals...
Geez, I have plenty of the chrome ones left over. I have been using them as paper weights around my office. PM if anyone wants a set of 4 (price is reasonable). I would have to make sure our spinners are the same (Dino Spyder 2L / Dino 206GT).
Attached is a picture of the graphics for the Dino script center cap. Don't worry about the color. This is just to visualize the overall dimensions of the cap and shape / style of the script. The silver will not be embossed as I cant find anyone that can do it on this type of item. Anyway, it should turn out fine. Can you guys compare the image to your current Dino center caps and let me know what you think? Thanks, Andrew Image Unavailable, Please Login
Andrew, The graphic looks good, from my perspective. The sig matches that on my Dino's nose badge & horn button, as well as the center caps that I believe are original. It matches that on your knock-offs, too! Does your contact think that the material can be replicated? Any suggestions on how the original caps were attached to the stainless hubcaps? Can we achieve the same results now without lifting or smudging the paint...or melting the plastic? Finally, could you elaborate on your comment about the silver border embossing detail? Will the silver still be there on the final product, just applied in a different process? It would likely be a show-stopper, if absent. I'm sure I misunderstood your comment, because your attention to detail was evident in your other quality remakes. I know that we are in contact via email, Andrew, but I wanted to keep the dialog going here, too. Looking forward to 'The Clone,' Coop
I am going to try to get the script to look more like the one pictured in dm-n-stuff's message on page 1 of this thread (I attached Dave's picture). The tail after the "o" is a little longer and the silver trim seems to be narrower around the logo. I will post an updated image when it is final. Unfortunately, foil is out of the question for the silver trim - it can't be done and I am dealing with very capable people. The silver trim will be there but it will be painted like the rest of the logo. But I am still working on a solution closer to the original so I will keep you posted. As for attaching it, I can have the caps made with an adhesive backing that will hold the cap in place or the cap can come bare and people can just use silicon or a similar type product. There are a variety of products that can do the trick without harming the paint. So I have to still figure that one out. Andrew
Looks great! ebay # 130267220364 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130267220364
Did you just make four, or do you have a production line running? I'd rather do a "buy it now" or order directly from you.
Pic from eBay ad for future reference: Looks pretty dang good to me!!!! Image Unavailable, Please Login
I made an initial run of 10 center caps with adhesive backing and 10 without it. The backing adds a lot of cost to it and I don't want to worry about separation from the wheel (not that there is any issue but it is an unknown factor) so I am leaning toward the bare back version for the final prodcution run. I also like the bare back version as the originals I have seen are like that. The improved painting process of today should stand up to most modern adhesives. Of course, I saw a couple of things that could be improved with the cap (because I am a nut) and decided to start the whole process over. So I decided to sell the first edition run on eBay to recoup some of the production costs. I am hoping to get the final run going before the end of the year. PM or email me for "buy now" details. Andrew
I'm glad you're doing a full run! I look forward to ordering a set, plus spares, early in the new year. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Osborne_Effect
Hi Andrew. The center badge is lookin' good, especially the color. However, I have two concerns. (1) The size: The seemingly original badges I sent you, and the other possibly original set I have here, are 52.00mm in diameter. According to the picture on eBay & F-chat, your recreation measures 50.50mm. I bought a repro set a couple of years ago that were the smaller size. There's a gap between the hubcap lip and the edge of the badge & I thought they didn't look quite 'right.' However, tx246 posted a picture of an original badge that appears to be the smaller size. Also, the new hubcaps that Superformance displays seem to have the smaller diameter badge. 'can't tell on Pietro's & ghenne's. Scott.Mac's looks like the larger iteration. What gives? Is it possible that either size may be correct? Is there even a third size? I do believe a survey might be in order. It would be interesting to hear from all of our 246 owners/maintainers/restorers/dealers/historians. (2) The silver: The silver border of the "Dino" script appears to be satin finish in your picture. You mentioned that a 'silver leaf' or shiney process was not a player. 'though there may be some size disparity in the examples mentioned above, they all seem to have bright borders around the lettering. I wonder if something like the tinsel that's hung on a Christmas tree could be used. Perhaps a tool, like a cookie cutter, could be made in the shape of the Dino script & used to stamp a sheet of tinsel-like material. The resulting continuous 'chrome' script could be inlaid in the groove that is cut or hot-stamped into the back of the badge. Or...,what about a type of liquid silver that could be poured into the groove? 'just a WAG. Heck, there are any number of toys out there, as well as brand-X horn buttons, logos, badges, that employ a similar effect. How do they do that? And, how is the 'chrome' plating applied to plastic parts. Would that process work here? Incidentally, does anyone know how the Old World crafters made the originals? Andrew, thanks for the energy in gettin' this project off the ground. Let us know if your refined second-generation version addresses my, hopefully well-founded, concerns. If not, can someone shed some light on the diameter dilemma and how to shine up the script surround? Coop
This is mostly information about the GT-4, but the info. on the DINO BADGE SPECS is same as for the 246 badge... http://birdmanferrari.com/pdf/308_GT4_overview.pdf
Hi Coop, You have a good eye. The first generation center caps are approximately 1.5 mm smaller than the originals caps that were supplied to me. FYI – none of the original caps that I have are 52mm in diameter and I have 4 samples from 3 different people. To be on the safe side, the second generation caps will be 51.5mm in diameter by design. The manufacturing tolerance may actually result in a disk that is very very close to 52 mm. And I believe the slight variance in size will not be noticeable and will provide an adequate margin of error should some Dino rims require a slightly smaller cap (less than 52mm). Interestingly, it appears that there are some standard blank disk sizes out there and it looks like some people default to that particular size (50mm) for the cost benefit. I am going the other way and using the dimensions I want. And believe it or not – I am adjusting the color as well on the gen2s. The yellow is going to be lighter in color so it is closer to the yellow found in what we would consider a new cap. The current color of the cap matches the original samples but I strongly believe there has been a color shift due to the age of the cap and its exposure to sun light. Same issue for the blue. So both colors are being re-calibrated. As for the silver trim - you are correct - it's not metallic but it actually looks quite good. The silver for whatever reason is much more vibrant than what the jpeg picture shows. Quite honestly, I think everyone will be happy with the result as it is damn close. And I literally approached several people and said that assuming cost was not a factor – could the trim be embossed. All said no (i.e. they could not do it regardless of my desire to pay through the nose) and we are talking about some very resourceful people. Gen2s should be ready before Thanksgiving and assuming all goes well I will start the final production shortly after Thanksgiving. Thanks for all the great suggestions and support. Andrew
Thanks for the good news, Andrew. 'glad to see you're a step ahead of me. In the Day, I imagine the badges were not a high priority for standardization on an otherwise less-than-standardized car. The more I learn about and work on these gorgeous machines, the more I realize how unique each one is. And, since only a very few of us have the history of our cars from day one, documentation of 'original' components is damn near impossible. Oh, and thanks for the kudo Andrew. Actually, my good eye saw 50.49mm. My right eye rounded it off to 50.50!! Standing by, Coop
Okay the 4th and final version of the center caps are being manufactured! The size is within .5mm to allow for some variance and the color is Pantone color matched to the original cap. The back of the center cap (unlike the original) has a white coating to keep the colors true and vibrant. I found that keeping the back of the center cap bare (like the original) allowed the glue, etc. to show through and degrade the color over time. I will post details once they arrive and pass my QC. Image Unavailable, Please Login
AJ, These are really looking nice! Put me down for 4 when you are finished. Tried to buy a new set of Dino hubcaps in the mid 80's and they were NLA already back then. I am assuming I can just pop off the prancing horse centers and install these on my existing caps. Will you be recommending glue or sticky tape? thanks, jon
Correct - just pop off the old center cap. I use nylon body shop pry tools (Eastwood) to avoid stratches or dents. Sometimes an old credit card will work. People have used sticky tape but I would use some non-hardening glue that can take high temperatures. I would actually try some high quality (Wurth Products) rubber cement or similar product. Andrew LINK for the Pry Tools: http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=12214&itemType=PRODUCT
Well, the center caps are finally done! Color is a perfect match to the original colors - based upon an actual OEM sample. The color may not match what you have on your Dino right now as there is a substantial color shift over time. The size is within 1mm to allow for some fit issues. The back is coated in white to protect the background yellow and to allow for uniform appearance when they are glued to the rim. They look great and the silver trim while painted is bright. A very nice result IMHO! Price is $39 for a set of 4 and shipping is a flat $4.95 anywhere. I will include Prancing Horse, Dino, Maserai or Lambo logo tire valve caps (set of 4 - in sealed plastic pack) for an additional $1 as I am cleaning out my garage and need the space! Here is the one on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130277336763 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
