488 challenge Wheels were swapped and nuts installed with a dewalt 18v 1/2” impact gun. The installer neglected to verify the torque and later determined the gun is capable of up to 1200ft-lb. Twice as much as needed. He also didn’t re-apply graphite. Incidentally the wheels were installed at an ambient air temp of about 30°F. After running the car for four HPDE sessions in 60°F, we found it impossible to remove the nuts. Back in the garage. A torque multiplier device was attempted and still failed to remove the nuts. Allegedly that device is capable of 3000ft-lb but no impact. We assume the left side of the car is left hand thread and right side is right hand thread as this is normal for center lock race cars. One source I spoke with claimed that European delivered 488C had threads opposite of the USA delivered 488C. He didn’t say which way each was configured. This car is in USA although it may have been raced in Canada prior. Local Ferrari dealer is going to run the VIN next week to try to determine the car’s origin. About to try a 2000ft-lb pneumatic air impact gun. the wheels nuts were sprayed with some pb blaster last night but it’s doubtful much penetrated into the threads. Thoughts of applying some butane or propane torch heat to the nut before trying next level torque? Any other advice?
I’m the guy who over torqued the wheel nuts! I just tried applying heat. Used small propane torch to heat up wheel nut and then hit it with a 2100 2100 ft/# impact I/R 2850 didn’t budge. Also tried the torque multiplier after heat and no luck. I don’t think there is anything funny white the direction on the wheel nuts. The nuts on the passenger side are black, driver side look silver. I am out of ideas outside a cutting wheel or trying to find a freezer that will fit the car.
Nope wrong way. Drivers side right hand thread. Think 200lb wing nut old days and what direction would tighten from sudden acceleration.
You might screw stuff up with heat Heat can anneal nut then it will not hold torque and yield. Nuts and hub threads should be clean and dry so you can apply correct torque and not gall threads. Threads can gall and trap debris like aluminum from wheel riding not carefully installed over hub. Then you torque it down with aluminum shards gall threads and near impossible to remove. Wheel studs and centerlock hub should never be lubed. No anti seize either!
Thanks! I’m thoroughly confused about the whole left-hand and right hand thread for which side of the car as is most of the internet. Seems to all relate to some guy named Rudge and perhaps the shape of the nut. My Lola T91/50 F3000 and Radical RXC both use left hand on left side so I didn’t consider the 488C would be opposite. Success in nuts coming off now though. Thank God.
Everything is back together and looks good. I found a manual on the anti seize/grease. See attached. They say to put on conical part of wheel nut and threads. I confirmed this with R3 race team.
