Where can I buy some of these connector pins?

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Terminal-Automotive-Electrical-Removal/dp/B0CRR3GGF1/ref=asc_df_B0CRR3GGF1?mcid=033f66bbfccf30758364ea55c31ffd31&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693070740235&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8797865696429256136&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9012250&hvtargid=pla-2280693352542&psc=1

if you just want to swap the pins.

or better yet, here https://connectorexperts.com/

 

That white wire feeds the starter solenoid and is often the cause of the Solenoid clicking issue. On mine, the wires hadn't been crimped to the terminals.
I fitted a fused relay into the circuit at that point to prevent solenoid current having to pass through the ignition switch.

 

Yes, i'm pretty sure it is.

 

Uncrimped ends were pretty common in that period. I repaired many under warranty.

 

1/4 inch spades with locking tabs are one of the most common wire ends there is. I have never seen a supplier who does not have them. I keep many in stock for several different wire gauges.

 

What is this "issue" about?

I hear a solenoid (or maybe a relay?) rapidly clicking under the dash in the vicinity of the fuses while starting the car, but I had always assumed that this was normal behavior.

Am I missing something which I should be concerned about?

 

I've never heard that with mine. The solenoid I referred to is the starter motor solenoid.

 

If it works….but neither a relay nor a solenoid should click repeatedly. Only as it energises and de-energises. A relay is virtually inaudible: the solenoids click is drowned by the starter motor.

 

No, that relay near the fuses is not associated with starter motor operation -- it's part of the safety switch system on your model running the fuel pump, and it's normal behavior for it to maybe randomly actuate, or unactuate, during starter motor cranking.

 

@yelcab I had searched for a while (I'm restoring multiple harnesses and connectors on a 1979 US GTS) and came up with AES, the match to OEM is near spot-on, and the quality appears to be exceptional: https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/p/6-3mm-blade-multiple-connectors

I bought male and female spade connectors, for various wire gauges, along with various multi-pin white plastic connector housings. No affiliation just seems to be a good supplier who matched OEM.

 

!!!!!

Thank you for the interesting reply, Steve!

Now that I've critically tried to think about it some more, it now strikes me as quite unusual that this ought to be considered as 'normal'. While I am indeed used to it, it does sound like it is chattering, many times a second (as if in a panic) while starting the car.

Is this indicative of the fuel pump actually being turned off-on-off-on-off-on rapidly and repeatedly during starting? And if so, how does one justify this operation mode as a safety device? What benefit does this behavior offer?

Curious! - DM

 

It's the relay that controls the fuel pump relay.
During starter motor cranking, the very small amount of air being drawn into the engine may, or may not, open the safety switch, or it may be "chattering" between the two states. But it doesn't matter during starter motor cranking as:
If the safety switch is open = this other relay is unenergized and +12V from its terminal 87a goes to close the fuel pump relay = the fuel pump runs.
If the safety switch is closed = this other relay is energized and +12V from its terminal 87 (the same +12V that goes to the starter solenoid) goes to close the fuel pump relay = the fuel pumps runs.
So not matter what state the safety switch is in during starter motor cranking = the fuel pump runs.

During normal engine running, a lot of air is being drawn into the engine = the safety switch is open = this other relay is unenergized and +12V from from its terminal 87a goes to close the fuel pump relay = the fuel pump runs.

The "safety" feature comes in if the engine stops running (like you've been in a bad crash), but the key is still "on" = no air going into the engine = safety switch closes = energizes this other relay = connects the fuel pump relay to terminal 87 of this other relay, but now the fuel pump relay is unenergized because there is no +12V on terminal 87 of this other relay (because the key is not in the start Pos III) = shuts the fuel pump off = can a lot better than fuel spraying out everywhere at 5 bar pressure from broken fuel lines/components when you are unconscious and/or upside down

 

Fascinating! I had no idea!

Many thanks, Steve, for your many excellent explanations over the years, which are always well-reasoned and insightful!

Cheers - DM

 

Yelcab, perhaps you already know, but the spade connectors release from the plastic connector housing by flexing down a very small tang with a jewelers screwdriver or similar tool via the small slot you see above the spade when looking at the face of the connector housing. You push the wire a bit into the housing, insert the tool from the face (opposite the wires) then pull the wire and connector out.

Edit: re-reading your initial post, it looks like you knew this. I'll leave this here in case this is news to anyone else.

 

I seem to recall they're the same as the old molex connectors, PC stuff from the 80's. Used to get various ones from radio shack. Wait.. That's the bullet ones in the engine bay... The blade ones are simple as well. Man I miss radio shack.

 

Check these guys out and call them if you can't find it on their site. An excellent old school place and every time I have ordered from them they have shipped to North America quickly and efficiently:

https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-56-multipin-connectors/c-155-6-3mm-blade-multi-connectors/p-613-multi-connectors-6-3mm