Will do. Thanks for the advice and links. I am all about checking obvious stuff before making expensive purchases which may not even be necessary. It may take me a while to get this stuff done (I'm not very mechanically inclined) but I will do it and let you guys know what I find. Thanks again and Merry Christmas to you too!
According to the local Bosch dealer, there are three (?) part numbers that were used on the 328's: 0 438 140 108 - Ferrari 118585 0 438 140 132 - Ferrari 121743 0 438 140 116 - Ferrari 119825 Would anyone know which one fits were ?? I know my car (88' 328 GTS) has the second one (121743), but is that the correct one? Help anyone? Rui
Depends -- does "euro" mean standard version or CH (Swiss) version? Does your 328 have K-Jet without Lambda or K-Jet with Lambda? "K-Jet with Lambda" would have a metering/frequency valve mounted on the airflow metering unit and an O2 sensor mounted in the cat inlet. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I would say K-Jet without Lambda. I don't see any O2 sensor, and sure there isn't any metering/frequency valve ... Image Unavailable, Please Login
Then I would have to say that you do have the wrong one, and it should be 119825 -- but can't say whether or not it's necessarily that significant (i.e., I don't have the functional details for 119825 vs 121743).
the bosch books i have state that the K-basic and K-lambda use the same WUR. now how accurate this is well...not 100% sure. but your dist body is not a K-Lambda but the K-basic, like the 2v versions. they easist way to see if there is a difference is to get the charts for the WUR, the ones i have only go to 1983, and they are all the same.
All USA 3.0QV & 3.2 V8's use the same Bosch regulator which has been discontinued from Bosch & Ferrari. T.Rutlands normally has a few rebuilt units in stock.
Okay guys, here's a bit of an update. I am going to try a different route for the time being. I have heard from at least a few people who have seen the car running that feel like there may be an issue with either the plugs, plug extenders, the plug wires, or any combo of the three. I have done plugs and plug extenders before on my previous cars so I will give that a try and see if the car runs any better. I'll keep you guys posted.
Just wanted to add that I've found the problem with my WUR. The contacts were corroded, but it wasn't obvious just my looking at them, and since the ohmmeter didn't give me any reading, I thought it was bad. I've found it because with the test leads on each side of the same contact it didn't show 0 ohm (or close) After a good cleaning it shows 22 ohm. If you have a problem with yours please check the connections Rui
A bit of an update. Turns out there were a few other things that my car needed. I replaced the plug wires (they were beat), plugs, and extenders and had the ignition plate cleaned and the idle adjusted. All of these things seem to have made a huge difference and the car is running quite well now. I'm just going to keep driving and enjoying it until the next thing goes wrong! (knock wood).