Where is the oil sump drain plug? Pic attached.

If you have to ask ... you probably shouldn't be allowed in the garage. But I want to make sure that I do my oil change correctly.

Is the oil sump drain plug in the top right corner of this photo? (Ignore the red arrow - I know to stay away from that one.)

I am changing the fluids on my Mondial t this weekend and this is the only thing that I haven't figured out.

Thanks!

Oh, and photo credit goes to Miltonian. Thanks!
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Hope ya got a big wrench
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Where can you get 12mm+ allen keys? I am having a tough time finding them at the hardware stores.

 

For some reason, one or two people have had the threads strip upon removal of the oil plug on the remote sump. I would recommend applying a dab of anti-seize on the threads on reinstallation.

 

Sears. They sell them as a socket set.

If I'm correct (348), then you remove the plug below the oil reservoir and then loosed up the compression nut around the oil hose fitting where it attaches to the underside of the block. See the bottom circle on the pic above.

 

Thanks guys. I got it now. Wish me luck, it doesn't look too difficult.

Yes, I found the 12mm at Sears too. They go up to 17mm then you have to order on line. I bought a 12mm allen for my socket wrench instead of the allen key.

 

No offense, but a quick look at the Owners Handbook would seem to be in order.

Yes, the main oil drain point is the plug on the bottom of the remote oil tank. As recommended, be aware of the condition of the threads on the plug and the tank, replace the copper seal on the plug, and don't overtighten it or may strip the threads. Just use common sense on this.

The secondary oil drain plug, on the engine itself, is a couple of inches in front of the plug indicated by the red arrow. It isn't on the BOTTOM of the engine, it's on the FRONT of the engine (vertical face). It's marked "scarico olio". Personally, I would not unhook the oil hose for this purpose. There is a drain plug on the engine specifically for this purpose, and I wouldn't want to take the chance of getting the hose fitting attached crooked, or cracking the fitting.

You should be able to get an individual hex socket at a place like Tool Town or Harbor Freight.

When you're draining the oil, remember that there is a LOT of it in there, it will overflow a normal drain pan.

 

What he said. Oil pipe was not designed to be an oil drain.

 

All good advice. (I didn't plan to drain the oil hose as I am not concerned about getting every drop.) And I did see the 348 site depicting the location of the oil drain plug. It looks like the hardest part of this procedure is locating the proper drain plugs!

BTW, I bought a 15qt drain pan at Walmart. That should do it!

Again, I appreciate everyones comments. I am looking forward to some quality time with the Mondial t. Waiting for the UPS guy to deliver the gear oil (Redline Shockproof).

 

348 Oil Change

You will need to remove two drain plugs. One 12mm drain plug is located above/behind an underbody panel at the front of the engine just below the seats/ECU's on the bottom of the car. You will need a new copper crush ring for the re-assembly. The other drain plug is under the dry sump at the very back right side of the car.

After those two drain plugs are opened, you will then need to disconnect the lower hose going to the oil cooler on the right side of your 348. Without this step, 1/2 quart of old oil will not be drained. You will want to remove the airbox to more easily reach your old oil filter.

Write the date of your oil change, your mileage, and your oil type onto your new filter. Install your new filter, re-install your drain plugs (using your copper crush ring on the engine oil plug), add fewer than 11 quarts of your new oil. Re-install your airbox. Start your engine and then check your oil level. Examine underneath for any leaks. Check your exhaust for any white or gray smoke (typically due to too much oil). Adjust your oil level as required.



I did forget to remember the second plug... the one that you replace the crush-ring on As for the oil hose... I just followed the directions above. I don't mind removing the hose to get the extra bit out. But, maybe I just have bigger balls.

 

ARGH! Cannot get the transmission fill plug off. Despite all of the advice on how to remove the 19mm hex nut, it won't budge.

AND I thought that I had bought a 12 hex for the oil drain plug. Nope, not on the receipt. AND I don't have socket for the sump drain plug.

Looks like Sears can set me up with the proper tools for the oil change. Not sure what I will do for the transmission fluid plug. Norwoods will likely help me next week.

I always find that the hardest part of DIY projects is never having the correct tools. Even when you think that you do!

 

Taken a 5/8 "spark-plug" socket and flip it. Insert a socket extender through the open end of the socket and connect it in reverse... leaving the hex end for use.

Tried that, yet?

 

I did that. It requires a 3/8 socket and mine has no leverage. I was even able to hook up my 1/2 socket handle and it would not budge. I don't have the best leverage, but dang it is tight. Lambo Dallas was the last to mess with it. Dang that Mike!

 

I had a similar problem on my last 355, the gearbox plug was super tight!!! I used a 19mm hex socket and half inch power bar with a pipe on it, I thought i was going to break something but fortunately it came free and no damage was done.

Good luck!

 

Poor guy. Time to go to Sears!

 

Frustration is that by the time that I get all of the parts, the oils will be cool. Should I put the air filter back on, take it off the jack stands, and warm it? I just give it extra time to drain when cold?

 

That is for the most thorough of oil changes. But, if you're not gonna pull the hose and all that jazz... It should be okay. It's all up to you!

 

I did it! I ended up needing a breaker bar to loosen the gear oil fill plug. But it is all done. I feel like I accomplished something!

Thanks for encouragement.

 

when people do oil changes with the engine etc hot, they forget that the recommended torque is stated for when cold. If you use that figure, or most often, too tight, if the next sob tries to loosen when cold it's darn near impossible! there is NO reason to loosen the oil line, no more will come out folks. As for the tank plate, ask yourself why most dealerships keep them on the shelf.

 

This is ultimately what I did to remove the plug. Since the spark plug socket was a 3/8 socket size and my breaker bar is 1/2", I got a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. worked perfectly.

Oh, and my oil drain plug magnet has very little grit on it. It was only changed 1 year ago, but it is still good to see that it was clean.