Where's a good power-tap location?

Where do you get the power from for high amp draw devices like audio power amps and, yes, you guessed it, directly wiring the power window motors to a battery source?

I'd like to wire my window motors directly to a strong 12VDC source but I hate the look of wires hanging off the battery terminals. To cheesy and unprofessional. The fuse panel is questionable - I've heard it has too many weaknesses to try to saddle it with any more load. I'm thinking of connecting a small bus bar with fuses - kind of like a remote heavy duty fuse panel.

What are you guys using for a hook up point? Anyone have a solution?

 

Thanks-

The more I thought about it the more I think I'll install an auxillary fuse panel. I found a nice one with 6 circuits and blade type fuses, good for 30A each. Nice clear cover too.

A previous owner installed two audio power amps (one for front and one for rear) but the wiring was questionable. One of the power leads for the large rear amp was connected straight to the battery terminals with crimp connectors under the terminal tightening nuts. I never like that arrangement, although it SEEMS like the best place. Just not a clean job IMO. The smaller front amp was tapped into who-knows-what circuit with those blue "scotch" tap connectors.

I've heard of electrical fires and now I know why. I took out EVERYTHING that wasn't put in by Ferrari in the first place. I lost count of how many burnt, black, overheated crimp splices I took out.

My window motors run like a champ when connected straight to the battery using the relay trick. I've heard others do this and now I know why.

I'll check my wiring diagrams and take the power from the same source as the main box. My Jeep uses the starter solenoid terminal.

'85 Ferrari Mondial Qv Cab??? Let's see...