Ecu is sending power to up valve and down valve on 2 different wires My switch wires are connected on the wires between the ecu and the valves. The switch has power from the side view mirror control. So everything worked as it should (up and down). Until the fuse blown…
Yes, that was more a point of emphasis. Please link back your original post about the lift system. I recall something about that…. Sorry, memory fuzzy. But again, let’s solve the problem and then create a viable solution. First remove all that you have done switch wise. Check power to control unit and to the cars systems. Power from the mirror has mostly a blown fuse as well. Get this car back to stock and then let’s go back to making light work. I am sure you discussed this? But I am going to add my thoughts anyway as a point of reference. I would gather 12v directly from the battery, maybe in multiple forms - but a relay board for sure where key on powers a separate relay to provide voltage to control unit. I would not use any of the Ferrari power sources or components, not tap into wires or fuses. Most of these cars are abuse by aftermarket stereos that destroy the integrity and originality of the car - blasphemy. You already have the fore thought to use a factory looking switch to make it look original, but the execution does not play well with the design. I think we can help you if you go back to the control system itself. Separate it from the factory wiring and create its own circuitry. It can be done in a way to be easily removed, not taxing the factory fuses and wires and provide the reliability you desire. Happy to help. Hard to do on an app. By the way, where are you located? My apologies if you have stated before. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you’re powering the ECU and the switch via the “mirror/turn signal/cigarette lighter (on some cars)” fuse. Does each valve only have a power wire coming from the ECU and a local earth or are there two wires going to the ECU (apart from your switch wire?) Why are you powering the ECU if you’re bypassing it? I was under the impression that Ferrari push (and hold) switches are normally designed to send an earth signal to components when pushed, so I'm not sure how you've wired up the lift switch. The spider roof and seat switches do seem to send power to the ECU when the switches are not pressed (I assume this is some kind of test circuit). Is the backlighting working in your Ferrari lift switch? If you've wired up the switch the wrong way, the LED won't work. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks guys but I’m not home right now and it’s complicated for me the reply to your questions. I’ll do when I’ll get back.
Hi, I was waiting an answer from the manufacturer but he's not very helpful for the moment. I hope he will send me a spare control unit. He just told me to change the wiring to feed directly the compressor by bypassing the control unit. But this won't fix the overchage issue I had with my switch. To answer some of your questions: Only my switch is powered by the cigarette lighter. The ECU is directly powered by the wire from the fuse box. From the ECU to the lift box, there is one + for each valve, one earth, and one + for the the compressor (that's why right now I can't use the system: control unit out= no + to the compressor). My initial plan was only to add an OEM style switch to the existing system. Unfortunatelly it didn't go as planned If I totally bypass the control unit, and feed power directly to the compressor as Roberuta suggested, I should get the system working again, but... I will encounter same problem as before: overcharge and blowing a fuse. THIS IS my big issue right now: how to use my switch without risking to blow a fuse again (it will happen if I push the switch UP too long) Concerning the switch, my friend modified it by reversing a led and adding a relay (we spoke about it here: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/149353758/ ) The only problem with the switch is that the light stays ON all the time. Not a big deal for me. Otherwise it is working properly. I can hear the valves going UP or DOWN as it should when I push the switch.
The lift is working again with the original control switch, but when using it with my swith it takes only a couple of times before a fuse blows. I even tried to work the switch by short pressing like impulsion, but it doesn't change the result: blown fuse. So I was wrong about thinking it was because an overload if the switch was pushed up to long. This is something else and I've no idea what is it, neither my electrician friend. I guess I will have to remove my switch after all
^ Sorry your switch keeps blowing fuses. These guys figured out how to do it to their low riders back in 1975... TOO FINE
Switch removed. Let me know if anyone is interested: it might be compatible with other lift system like KW HLS...
