I bought a set of new tires for my Dino from Coker. Who would you trust in Seattle to mount them? Years ago I used Trueline near Jackson because Grand Prix/FoS recommended them and they did a good job, but things could have changed so I thought I'd ask the group here. Thank you
I was quite pleased with the shop and equipment down at Group2 Motorsports near Fishermans Terminal when they did the alignment on my 308. Talk to Joe English. I don't have the number offhand...............................
For me the machine MUST be a "No Touch" or Euro type. I wouldn't trust the other kind unless the guy is really good or they have good insurance.
I had a flat on my 355 rear sitting in Garage at 14 PSI. I took it to Discount Tire in Renton and dropped it off. I came back they plugged it patched it from the inside and rebalanced it for NO CHAGE! (PS they didn't damage the rim either)
How can you tell? I watched them mount the tires on my 365 (on Borranis), and there was certainly a fair amount of touching involved. I'm guessing the guys I used did not have the sort of machine you are talking about (no scratches, though, and they do lots of wire wheel work). What does the "No Touch" machine look like and how does it work?
I too have been using my local Discount Tire shop for years. They do great work, have good prices and they've always treated my Ferrari wheels with respect. As Dave mentioned, they never charge for a simple tire repair either. Highly recommended.
Dave: I thought you couldn't patch high perf tires - period. i.e., The integrity at high speeds can not be guaranteed with a patch. Either you plan on not approaching the rated speeds (Ha!) or tire manufacturers now allow patching, which doesn't seem right. ? Tim
That's not entirely true, I think we were told that mostly for legal reasons. Grand Prix (Now FoS) found a nail in the rear right tyre one time while the car was in for service. When I went back to pick up the car, the service manager told me that as long as I keep her under 150 I should be okay. That was back in the early 90's, I would imagine that this still hold true for tyres these days. PS: Except for Dave and Kuzi. They usually blast out of their garage at 130mph at least and cruise to work so where around 160mph on a daily bases.
I just checked the Dunlop, Goodyear, and Bridgestone websites, they all say that patching is fine, when done in conjunction with removal of the tire to inspect the inside of the tire for possible hidden damage. They seem to differ a bit on the "approved" method of repair though. Some say patch only from the inside, some say plug AND patch...other was somewhat vague, implying that both may be acceptable, as long as the plug is inserted from "inside" the tire, not outside. Dave
As long as the tire has not been driven on with low pressure, the steel belts in the sidewall should be fine and the tire can be patched unless the hole is in the shoulder of the tire where the sidewall meets the tread. I go to discount tire in lakewood. Even though tacompton isn't the best place and pretty far away, the people there know thier stuff and treat my rims right. The bellevue discount tire people are jerks.
Mine was pluged from the inside and patched from the inside. If you think about it, the only limiting thing is the temperature capability of the glue. the centrifical force at the center of the tread will hold the patch in place. If the patch glue fails, the pressure in the tire is still trying to hold the patch on the hole. The true test will be the run to Walla Walla with pavement temperature in excess of 130. While I never exceed posted speed limits, the pavement temp of 130 would be my speed limit also on z-rated and y-rated tires whether there is a patch in it or not. Thanks to Dave Handa for doing the research to justify what I did anyway!
In the traditional machine the rim is clamped to a center post by a cone shaped "nut". The post in the center of the machine rotates onto which they drop a tire "spoon." The end of the spoon rides around the upper edge of the rim, ON THE RIM, wedging the rubber onto or off of the rim depending on which direction you rotate the spoon. A way to prevent gouges to the alloy is to slip a nylon sleeve over the end of the spoon and it works quite well. What you don't see is the "shoe" on the underside of the tire/wheel that extends upwards against the rubber where it meets the rim, forcing it's way between the tire and the wheel. MOST of the time it doesn't do any damage but sometimes the shoe will catch on the rim and shear the lip off. I did this on a 914 rim and had to pay for new one out of my pocket (the sign above my head said, "No alloy rims"). The Euro machine doesn't have the center driven "spoon" but instead has the "spoon" mounted outboard on an arm. The wheel/tire assy spins instead of the "spoon" rotating. It peels the rubber on and off the same way as the old style but does not touch the rim. I did not see a shoe on this machine either. The low profile tires are easier to mount with a Euro "touchless" machine, at least that is what I am told. I REALLY feel more comfortable watching how these machines work. It just seems there are fewer opportunities for mistakes that cause damage. P.S. I have no problem driving at the speed a 308 can muster with a proper "hot" patch on the inside of the tire (tread area) over a simple puncture.