Window Drive Unit - Cable | FerrariChat

Window Drive Unit - Cable

Discussion in '308/328' started by gt500blue, Dec 27, 2007.

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  1. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

    Oct 18, 2006
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    Well, I'm sorry to drag this old topic out into the open again, but I'm stuck! I was driving my 83 308 QV last week when the passenger window suddenly "grinded" to a halt! And it "GRINDED" to a halt! For months I had thought about tackling the "slow window repair". Well, now I had no choice since my window was half way down when it stopped. So I took the door panel off hoping to find that the cable had simply jumped off one of the plastic roller wheels, but no such luck. After pulling the window drive unit from the car, I found a very hard black piece of circular plastic jammed between two of the three posts that hod the cover on the dive unit. It appears to be some sort of round plastic that may have fit in the hole where the door handle protrudes through the panel?? Not sure where else it could have come from, but it sure cause a lot of damage to the cable.

    After taking the drive apart to find the usual suspect, "hard grease", I only found new grease and this piece of plastic jammed on top of the cable. Unfortunately, it disfigured the cable so badly that I can't even come close to wrapping the cable back on the spool in the individual grooves. The cable was wrapped, twisted, bent and basically ruined by this little piece of hard black plastic that was jammed in there! Damn!!

    Now what? I was reading one of the other 20 threads on this "typical" repair and one of them mentioned that a hardware store would carry aircraft qaulity 1/6" stainless steel cable. I could replace the cable and be on my way! Well, I have no idea how to separate the plastic gear/spool from the metal shaft and metal plate on the spool. I would need to remove the plastic spool in order for me to remove the cable since one of the ends of the cable terminates in one of the holes that is under the metal cap on the plastic spool. Are you following me?

    Has anyone replaced the cable? If so, how do you separate the spool from the metal shaft to get to the other end of the cable that is under there? Is the shaft simply pressed through the plastic gear/spool? Also, when you found the correct cable, how did you attach it to the spool? There are metal pieces on the end of the cable that stop it from coming apart where it was cut to proper lenght. Maybe you simply solder the end of the cable to prevent it from coming untwisted into individual strands?

    Or is my best bet to simply find a replacement unit. I'm sure they are not inexpensive. Please help!

    Thanks,
    John
     
  2. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran
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    John Hello! I'm just finishing up my passenger window on my 84 QV after taking it apart a few days ago. You need to remove the three phillips screws on the front cover, then turn the assembly over and you will see a black cone shaped piece in the center of the assembly (thats where you would insert the hand crank to lower your window manually if you lost the electric motor)take a small screw driver and pry this piece off (it just snaps on there) then the whole assembly will come apart, there's only about 6 pieces inside so its no big deal to put back together. You should be able to pull the spool away from the plate and see where the cables go through and mount. There's a thread in this section titled "308 window fiesco" that I posted a few days ago, go through it and make a copy of the diagram of the window assembly the guys sent me,you will need it to re-string the cable through the pullys,make sure when you rewrap the cables on the spool that they exit the plastic regulator assembly exactly as shown on the diagram (or you will get to take it apart again)ha!-- OR-- if your not in the mood to fix yours t rutlands has the complete assembly (includes new motor,plastic regulator assembly and cables- attached) for $430.00 ea. or Lyle Tanner ent.916-454-3240 has the exact assembly for $320.00
    Don't stress! If I can fix mine anyone can!! Kim
     
  3. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

    Oct 18, 2006
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    Kim,

    Thanks so much! Thanks for the words of support. I have read every and all threads on this topic. I did read yours and the diagrams are a big help. The problem I have is that the cables are kinked and damaged for the first 2 or so inches, so wrapping them back on the spool in the correct grooves is just about impossible. So youi tip about pulling the unit apart to get the cable out is what I really needed and appreciated!

    I will try to pry the "slotted hub" off the plastic spool to expose the back of the cable ends so i can remove the cable and try to find a new cable. The cost for the unit at Rutlands kills me since I know only the cable is bad.

    I'll keep you posted on my progress!

    Thanks again.

    If anyone knows where to get the correct cable for this thing, I would appreciate the tip!

    John
     
  4. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

    Oct 18, 2006
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    Just to be clear, I have the entire assembly apart, no problem. What I do not yet been able to do is to separate the actual spool from metal plate and hub it sits on in order to expose the one end of the cable that is under the spool and out of sight.

    I will look at the slotted portion of the hub to see if it "snaps" off.

    If you have a picture of it separated, that would be great.

    John
     
  5. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran
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    John Goodmorning! if you turn the spool over you will see the cable ends, actually you will see two little blocks (or balls) thats the ends of your cables that have been leaded to prevent them from pulling through the spool. I'm almost positive if you grab one of the cables and pull it in the opposite direction they wrap they should release enough to push them back through the hole and then you just cut the cable ends off and pull them totally out and replace them. Make sure you remember which cable wraps which direction.
    Kim
     
  6. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran
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    John, Before you replace your cables you might want to take a pair of needle nose pliers in each hand and see if your able to bend your cables back into shape. Mine had wraped over each other and they had a few small kinks in them also but after 20 minutes of slowley and little by little bending them around they lay really nice in the spool! One other note: I'm not sure if there is a difference in spool sizes between earlier 308's and our QV's (I wouldn't think so) but you only put 4 wraps on the spool, if you do 5 you will not be able to pull the cable over the last pully, let alone the tensioner pully! Vernell gave me some really good advice when he told me to just wrap one of the cables 4 times insted of trying to wrap each 2 wraps in opposite directions! Kim
     
  7. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

    Oct 18, 2006
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    Kim,

    Thanks so much for you help! I still have only one end of the cable with the lead visible. The other end is under the spool side that I can't see. There is the metal "cap" on that side of the spool. The "slotted" hub is still in place. Maybe I should get my camera out and post a photo. But I have not yet figured out how to get he plastic spool off the metal cap and hub that runs through the center of the plastic spool. I can only see one end of the cable as it is now.

    Thanks again!
    John
     
  8. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

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    #8 gt500blue, Dec 28, 2007
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    To help, here are two photos. One shows the plastic side of the gear with the "lead" on the end of the cable. The other shows the metal cap on the spool. How do I seperate the metal cap, shaft (hub) and plastic spool that will allow me to see the other end of the steel cable? The plastic spool is on the metal hub. Note, the metal washer on the metal cap side of the spool spins, but does not seem to come off. I need to get the plastic spool off the metal hub in order to replace the cable. My cable is very bent. Any help with respect to separating the metal hub/cap from the plastic spool would be appreciated!

    Thanks,
    John
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  9. 308 milano

    308 milano F1 Veteran
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    John I was sure that both cable ends were visible but I was wrong! I thought the rest of the roller assm. was molded in one piece. Maybe p.m. vernell and ask his advice as it sounds like he has changed cables before. Kim
     
  10. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
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    Your cable are pristine compared to the condition mine were in and mine work just fine. After reinstalling, if you condition the cable by running it back and forth before applying the final tension and windows (as I suggested previously) the kinks will settle out.
     
  11. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

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    I sure hope you are correct. However, I can't seem to get the cable wound on the spool smoothly enough. Should I re-install with the cable on the spool as best as possible and then run the unit "up and down" to get them to seat better? I just don't see how the cable will roll neatly in place with the existing kinks. You can't really see the bends in my photos. I will work them with the needle nose pliars a bit and try it before I purchase a new unit ($500+) from TRutlands.

    Thanks for the help!
     
  12. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    May 5, 2001
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    Yes, Try getting it back together with all the slack wound up in one direction. Usually when you put tension on the cable, & use the motor to wind & unwind it a couple of times, the kinks will straighten out & the cable will lay in the spool's grooves properly.

    SPOOL DISASSEMBLY:
    If you have to replace the cable, here's how to disassemble the spool:
    Position the spool with the blue metal side facing you. Think of the blue metal side as a dome shaped spring that can be compressed.
    Inside the black washer is a circular metal clip.
    Press the black washer down, compressing the blue metal cone & giving you access to the metal clip that's sitting inside the black washer in a groove in the shaft. Remove the clip, & then slowly let pressure off of the black washer.

    Remove the black washer & blue metal dome to gain access to the inside of the cover.

    When replacing the cable, you'll need to put new crush-on ends on the cable. Should be available where you buy the cable. The new ends can be either spherical or cylindrical.

    What's important is for the length of the new cable to be extremely close to the length of the old cable.
     
  13. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

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    Ask and you shall receive! Thanks again Verell! I could not, for the life of me, figure out how to take it apart. Makes sense! I will give the first option (wind and re-install) to see if it works itself out. If not, then I will take it apart and replace the cable.

    Thanks a million everyone!
     
  14. luckydynes

    luckydynes F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
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    And just in case you do cut the cable too long or too short, there's a section of the wire that you can cut and splice that will never touch the rollers . . . ask me how I know :)
     
  15. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
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    +1

    I've never had the wires lie nice and neat on the spool on their own. They want to arrange themselves...and they will if allowed...i.e.lots of slack to begin with.
     
  16. Paul_308

    Paul_308 Formula 3

    Mar 12, 2004
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    I'm curious if you (or anyone) have altered the position of a lower pulley to compensate for shortening the cable (to remove frays) ??
     
  17. gt500blue

    gt500blue Formula 3

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    Thanks to everyone for their help! I took a shot and put it back together with the "bent" cable. I ran it back and forth many times and it seems to work fine. It's about 30% faster now! I would assume that if I could clean out the window tracks with something appropriate it would be even better. I'm thinking about maybe putting some graphite powder or even silicone spray in the track. Thoughts?

    Regardless, thanks to all of you!

    John
     
  18. Verell

    Verell F1 Veteran
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    Silicone spray lube is commonly used to reduce window track friction.

    Use the type that leaves a slippery film when it dries. A few silicones leave an oil, not a dry surface. The oil will end up smudging the glass & is a PITA to remove.

    Also, the track may not be properly aligned, what seems to be a barely noticable bind can really slow things down.


    One of the rollers is somewhat adjustable. However, it's not much more work to completely replace a length of cable than it is to cut out a frayed section.
     

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