360 Window lift issue

Mario, do you mean 6 pins or 6 connectors? 3 pins or 3 connectors?

By "lift", do you mean the motor only or a larger assembly?

The window motor (itself) should either have a 6 pin plug (early car) or a 2 pin plug (later car). Here's an early version (see "6M"):

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(as viewed from the wire side..... I think)

Here is the new connector

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(as viewed from the wire side of the connector..... I think)

I don't know which is the "up" or "down" wire, but if you match the colours, it may work.

I think only the Ferrari V12's (slightly before the Modena) used more than two pins on the 6 pin motor connector.

If you have access to the main door connector (door side), you can check the wiring here:

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I don't know if the motor internals are the same.

Please let us know if it works

 

I guess the hookup will look something like this (looking at the contact side, not the wire side), but confirm the wiring of your 2 (?) pin "6M" plug by either pulling back the rubber boot (if possible) or by carrying out continuity checks from the main door plug.

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If the motor plug on your car really has 3 pins, then we have a major problem.

Does the motor itself have numbers printed on the pins? If possible, please take photos of your plugs and post them here.

 

Does your 6M plug have a blue weatherseal?

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For FerrariChat future reference, here is an old type 360/456/550 window motor with a 6 pin (white) plug.

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Make sure you buy the correct type.

 

I'm not sure what's going on here. Did the motor change involve removing or disturbing door latch/lock components? Did you have any doorlock issues before this?

This can be caused by a number of things:
Something mechanical stopping the lock actuator from moving to its correct position (including the door not being latched closed properly).
Faulty lock actuator.
Faulty microswitches.

Locking problems can be caused by either door, but its more likely to be the driver's side door (as you were working on that).

Can you lock the door using your key?

 

Do you mean nothing happens to the windows?

I'm trying to figure out which version door wiring you have. Can you use the small lock lever on the interior door handle to lock and unlock the doors?

Does the window drop when you use the key in the door lock?

There are separate microswitches on the inner door handle, the door (key) lock and the outer door handle with separate wiring to the Window ECU. It's unlikely that all switches are broken. If you answer my questions above, we can make get a better diagnosis. If all three microswitches are not activating the window then, most likely, you have a Window ECU issue.

I would check the plugs on the Window ECU, especially the bottom plug "C" (the smaller one with 16 pins).

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Look for water ingress / corrosion. Note that you should get an earth (ground) signal on these pins from the microswitches when you lift the handles or unlock the doors.

The window ECU should be under the dash, near the RH side of the car (near your left knee if you drive a LHD car). It should be a green box (or black if a very early 360).

 

Sorry, I meant to say LH side of the car, near the driver's left knee.

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Your box may be green.

If I'm not mistaken, the connectors are marked A, B & C as shown.

Unfortunately, there is nothing interchangeable.

 

For future reference, those components in your photo are the Suspension ECU (top), the Windscreen Wiper/Washer Module and the Hazard/Turn Module (green)

 

Yes, that's the one

Does the bottom, forward plug have 16 or 20 wires? The 16 wire plug carries the data from the lock microswitches in the driver's door to the ECU.

What about unlock with the key?

Did you notice if you have two microswitches on the interior door handle? i.e. One connected to the door opening lever and one connected to the lock lever (or is your lock lever purely mechanical)?

 

I can't tell from your photo if the smaller bottom plug is actually plugged in.

 

I would check the microswitch activated by the inside door handle.

 

No, they are specific to the driver's door, but yes, you should get a ground on pin 16 if you lift the driver's door handle or unlock the door using the key.
You should get a ground on pin 6 if you lift the outer door handle.

Sorry, I have to correct my earlier diagram (seems I was having a bad day yesterday)

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For the passenger door, it's pin 13 (pink wire) and pin 5 (grey/black wire) respectively.

 

I'm just concerned that @MG is not getting a response from multiple door switches (although I need to confirm that unlocking the door does not move the window). I think he has an early car, so less wires to check (less microswitches)

 

@MG Here are the wiring diagrams for an early car, but they are quite complex

Here is the driver's door:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/Rv5pPd6uzEGwBeG1

The microswitch wires 8M (inner door handle) and 4M (key) both go to pin 11 (via a splice "S38M").
Microswitch 5M (outer door handle) goes to pin 12 on the main door plug.

Then you need to switch to a larger diagram:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/P1fnIaWS89lsFbLP

Follow the wires from the driver's main door plug (1F) to the Window ECU plug 14F (also known as plug C)

Here is the passenger door:

https://www.dropbox.com/t/CSWLceLa6oO7n01U

 

Here is the microswitch on the door handle (5M in the wiring diagram):

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Here are the microswitches on the key assembly (4M in the wiring diagram):

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There are 3 microswitches on the key assembly. They are triggered by cams on the key barrel. Only two seem to be wired into the window circuit. The light blue, black and red wires are the wires in use. Oddly, red seems to be the earth (from the car's perspective).

The innner door handle microswitch (8M) is here:

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Actually, that's the later model one with an additional microswitch on the interior lock lever.

I haven't figured out what part of the system would cause this.

You're not getting responses from multiple switches and different wiring to the ECU. At the moment, I can't see how anything but the ECU plug or ECU can cause this unless there is an input from a particular switch on the window itself. Maybe the system thinks that the window is already down. There is another switch on the window mechanism:

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This is 7M in the diagram.

There is a message thread on the forum discussing this switch. It's a very long and convoluted thread, but here is one message relating to the operation of this switch.

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/posts/148463270/

If you have access to the plug on this switch already, try disconnecting it and then operating the door handles/key. Don't be surprised if the window runs all the way down

Switch video here (thanks to @Mario Andretti )



Other than that, all I can suggest is checking microswitch operation at the ECU connector pins or at the door connector (whatever is easier).

 

I would try changing the relay and clean up that corrosion. That relay is cheap and easy enough to find. It also has through-holes so much easier to DIY.