Window mechanism.... How to fix?? | FerrariChat
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Window mechanism.... How to fix??

Discussion in 'Vintage (thru 365 GTC4)' started by tx246, Oct 22, 2010.

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  1. tx246

    tx246 F1 Veteran
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    Shawn
    #1 tx246, Oct 22, 2010
    Pretty basic question for most, but I don't know...

    I am trying to get a window mechanism to work and it seems the window is "dead"...

    It is a manual crank and doesn't do anything other than turn (or so I thought at the time).

    I removed the door panel and the cable that works the window is all twisted on itself, but not following the pulley.

    With the cable being metal, it keeps wanting to twirl itself into a mess.....

    Is there any easy way to fix this? How is best? 45 minuntes worth of fiddling didn't do much of anything, other than maybe making it worse....

    Now that the cable is not normal, how is the best way to get everything to a starting point and go from there?
     
  2. The Red Baron

    The Red Baron Formula 3

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    Warren
    #2 The Red Baron, Oct 22, 2010
    The problem you have sounds normal. Aligning cable window winders is sometimes a nightmare. I would advise take it to someone who knows what they are doing and save yourself many hours grief.
     
  3. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
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    #3 Motob, Oct 22, 2010
    The cable regulators are not much fun to repair. I would recommend replacement of the cable, which requires removal and disassembly of the regulator. Getting the length of the new cable correct is crucial, and sometimes requires trying multiple times.

    The routing of the cable is also important, as it only works one way. You can take the door panel off of the other door to see how it is supposed to go.

    This is a job that can take a few hours for someone who has done it before to get it right.

    Brian Brown
    Patrick Ottis Co.
     
  4. John Vardanian

    John Vardanian F1 Rookie

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    #4 John Vardanian, Oct 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Hi Shawn, I do not know what car you have, but my 250's winding mechanisms are shared with a more common Italian car (I forget which). I got these on eBay and they were identical to my car's; albeit, with cables of different length. So, I rethreaded the new units with new SS cable. Lesson learned, carefully measure the exact length of the original cable and rethread the new mechanisms with the same length cables.

    The other thing that would go a long way in ensuring smooth window roll operation is replacement of the awful pot metal pulleys with some bearing loaded ones. I got mine from McMaster Carr.

    john
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  5. wolfchen75

    wolfchen75 Karting

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    #5 wolfchen75, Oct 23, 2010
    I had the same problem on a few lusso's, the cable broke and right and left are different.
    Finally a boatyard that worked on outboards came to my rescue, it's the same idea as used to steer an outboard motor remotely


    JV
     
  6. tx246

    tx246 F1 Veteran
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    #6 tx246, Oct 23, 2010
    John,

    After looking at you diagram and staring at the mess again, I was able to get the window back to a functioning state... There is still a little bit of slack in the cable, is there a way to take some of the slack up? It seems like the cable ends that are tucked inside the pulley and can't be adjusted....
     
  7. tx246

    tx246 F1 Veteran
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    #7 tx246, Oct 23, 2010
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Now that the cable is raising and lowering the window, I am trying to attach hardware to the mechanism....

    It didn't have any hardware with it, so I have managed to hobble together a couple of pieces that are "supposed" to work...

    The male mechanism shaft has a recessed ring around it. The handle is very difficult to fit and will only slide so far down. It is designed to be held in place by a set screw that would seem that it should line up with the recessed portion of the male part. It doesn't. I put some pretty good pressure on the handle and it didn't seem to budge after first lining up with the dowell rod.

    Is there some trick I am missing? Even with the bezel not in place (or the door panel for that matter), I still can't seem to get attached any better and the set screw just simply doesn't have enough bite to hold it.

    How are these properly attached?
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  8. John Vardanian

    John Vardanian F1 Rookie

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    #8 John Vardanian, Oct 24, 2010
    Hi Shawn, there should be no slack at all in the cable. One of the pulleys can be moved back and forth by some 3/4 inch. You move this pulley one way so you can slide the cable on and move it the other way to make the cable taught.

    Did the handle come the winder shaft without problem, but now it's not going back on? Or, is it the first time the two are mating?

    john
     
  9. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    #9 BigTex, Oct 25, 2010
    Last edited: Oct 25, 2010
    I'd suggest that the tip of your set screw has worn off.....it should come to a point if it's meant to bite into that shaft...

    Replace it with a new one, and a hex socket head style might let you put more clamping force into it...
     
  10. DavidSB

    DavidSB Karting

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    #10 DavidSB, May 4, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I know this is an old thread but I just finished installing a rebuilt 330 GTC window motor/cable assembly and couldn't find any photos of the proper routing. Below are a few that someday someone searching for the proper cable routing might find helpful. The cable measures 113.5 inches from swaged tip to tip and it is important to make sure the cable crosses up and down as it comes off the spool. (2 photos are from a 330 GTC and the other from a 356 GTC - same system)
    David
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  11. cheesey

    cheesey Formula 3

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    #11 cheesey, May 5, 2013
    when sourcing new cable be aware that there are two major types typically identified as running and standing... the difference is that running cable is designed to be run around pulleys and stored on drums, usually has a greater number of strands for better flexibility making it feel "soft" and act like rope, while standing cable is meant to be used in straight lengths to carry loads from point to point, the cable is stiff and unyielding not suitible to run around pulleys... it becomes quickly apparant which is which, when handled... they are available in steel, galvanized steel, and stainless steel... if possible opt, for the stainless, for the corrosion resistance... if specialty rigging shops are not close by and the home stores don't have the proper cable, check out a marine / boat ( sailboat ) retailer
     

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