Will go through my notes and let you know. Its been a few years since I did mine, but I was able to source them online. As I recall I just bough several feet and cut it down to size. It took the time from a couple of minutes to something like a few seconds.
Did my 1977 308 this summer! Perfect fit https://www.dkhardware.com/ameriseal-10867-flexible-window-glass-run-channel-96-length-for-application-ford-mercury-fairline-1966-71-product-4149911.html
Here is one of the companies I had scored from. Looks like they still sell the window flocked lined seal. https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shop/category/window-rubbers-flocked-lined-window-rubber-479 For the flocked lined channel have a look at either FWR148, FWR846 or FWR713 They also have a lot of the other various door and deck lid seals, as well as edge guard.
Both my drivers and passenger windows dont budge, I can see the motor is trying, but its not working. I was hoping that this was going to be an easy fix, but having read this feed, I can see I am going to have some frustrations! Cant wait
When I did my windows on my ‘82 the biggest factor for speed and smoother operation besides the hardened grease was the channel lining.
I'm going to post a video when I do the other side. I did some recording of the driver's side but since it was the first time it's just a lot of cursing LOL. Just know going in that it's going to be frustrating. For me that helps knowing that I'm in for the long haul so I STILL get frustrated, but not nearly as much if I already know it's going to suck. The biggest frustration really is running the crazy cabling. I had to do it a few times before I got it correct. It's easy to put the cable on the wrong side of things and then it gets crossed up. The best way I found to do it, for me, is to run the first pulley nearest to the motor from the top, and then go in sequence from there... top to the next one right below it, then over to the rear top near the door lock, then down to the pulley right below that, then you just have to go over one more to go back to the motor. I know that sounds like gobbelty gook probably but when I post the vid hopefully it will make sense. I also wasn't able to secure the window from falling. It fell, more than once, and fortunately no cracks or breakage. It was MUCH easier for me to just disconnect the window and then lift it by hand when I needed it out of the way. The cleaning of the motor sucks too, but that's FAR less annoying. It's just time consuming. Definitely soak it overnight and the start cleaning the next day. I can't imagine how long it would take without doing that. The little teeth in the gear are the time sink. Heidi and Franny have an excellent video on all of this which I referenced many times. But it's still going to suck
I can't imagine anyone removing the door panel and not dealing with the old grease. I did one door, and even with hanging the cable wrong the first time I was done in about 5 hours. My windows are factory slow, but they work, and the rock hard grease is gone.
Is there a way to convert the 308 window cabling system to the 328 window regulator style? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I also thought the window System in the 308 was poorly executed and slapped together, but after spending nearly 6 months trying to develop a new window regulator system similar to what is installed in newer vehicles, and purchasing over 40 different style regulators that I thought could be helpful in development, I narrowed the field down to just one or two regulator systems that turned out, were no longer available. One of the major issues that I encountered was that the door glass has to travel all the way to the bottom of the door, so it limits where the regulator is in relation to the mounting of the glass. The biggest hurdle I ran into was not only did the glass need to travel to the bottom of the door, but when it travels upward, it actually travels backwards another 5 inches. This is where everything gets really complicated and the only solution is to totally develop a new regulator system. The cost stops the project right there. All these years that I thought the current Window system was slapstick at best, turns out that it’s quite ingenious! Accomplishes all the movements needed, is Lightweight and simple. As to Mike’s question above about using a 328 window regulator system in the 308? It can be done, although you would need to fabricate a bracket to connect to the glass then secure to the 328 regulator system. But what makes it not worthwhile, is the availability of the 328 system parts are no longer available except used so then you’re back to the same problem that exists currently in the 308 so you’ve accomplished virtually nothing. The short answer is.. You will be miles ahead if you just refurbish the OEM Window system. Maybe opt for newer style motors? Or see what performance you get out of a couple window relays being installed, oh, and also clean the hardened, grease out of the regulators and put some powdered graphite in your window channels.. I can tell you firsthand that anything else is just wasted time.
I can't agree on the "simple." If Ferrari had made their windows like many others I've encountered they could have just had a two-gear system on a track. Or they could have done a scissor system. But then it would have probably cost them more money or development time. It certainly could have been engineered to work just fine and would likely not have the issues we encounter with the system they designed. The cable system is a friggin nightmare. And don't even get me started on the wiring... that's a whole other can of worms.
Unsure if the above post was directed at me. Made no mention of “simple.” I said it was ingenious. Years ago, I had a company that designed and manufactured automobile offloading accessories so this wasn’t new territory for me. A geared mechanism would be great! Just have to find Room in a 16 inch high door with less than 2 inches of room, mostly taking up by the curvature of the glass when it travels. Scissor system would be great ! Now, how are you going to make it travel 5 inches backward also? I invested over $8k Before deciding Ferrari had it right all along.
Apologies! I Reread my previous post and I did call it simple lol. This is what you get to look forward to when you get older like me! Memory is optional!
Ugh…makes a person want to ditch the entire power window mess and just go with a Gr 4 / Gr B inspired manual lift.
When I did mine I put lines to show the cord path. Image Unavailable, Please Login The one redesign I would do over would be to put a spring on the slider pulley to keep tension. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Honestly, this is not that complicated. it takes 1 minute to make a small drawing on a piece of paper showing the routing of the steel wire and where it goes under or over it self. Then take a couple of pictures and your'e well prepared for assemble of the door. If you are really unsure then only dismantle one door at a time. Admittedly changing wire and reinstalling the motor / wire can be a bit tricky but there are so many good threads about this task on Fchat - The search function is your help! Best, Peter
Hi Imatk, A video would be amazing. I think I have watched the Heidi and Franny video 5 times now, but as you say, it doesn't make a whole heap of sense until you start taking it apart! I am totally on the same page as you regarding prepping yourself for a PITA task! Expect the worst and then anything else is a bonus... Cheers, Tom
Thought I would make one last comment On developing a new style window mechanism, in case someone wanted to pick up the gauntlet and run with it. The final prototype looked similar to a mountain tram system. I had custom c channel made for the rollers to run in and attached a 14 inch piece of the channel to the door glass in a specified place via urethane sealer. The roller mechanism consisted of two rollers attached On both ends of a 4.5 inch long, flat piece of metal and the regulator arm attaching in the center of this piece of metal. When put together, the tram system could adjust to whatever angle is needed as the regulator arm moved upward with the door glass. This also allowed the window to travel backwards the 5 inches necessary to close . Now the next problem became evident That the final few inches the door glass needed to travel, inward and press firmly against the rubber Roof seal (GTS) This required the regulator arm to exert more tension on the door glass to accomplish this. The issue that brought all of this to a screeching halt was That after being able to accomplish, all of these requirements ,was that when attempting to be rolled back down, the tram system could not pull the window evenly because now it was positioned 5 inches forward of the center of the window and would pull the window out of alignment. Thought about this continuously for the next few days and that’s when I found true appreciation for whoever designed the current window system.The cable system allows everything to be pulled with the same tension whether going up or down and centered. Just thought this information might be helpful to someone else in the future.
My thought would be a swing arm with the bottom of window having a linear bearing track. Allows for the window to move up down and track back to front with the movement arm not having to follow. Still a bunch of work that really doesn't address the issue. The real issue is the voltage drop feeding power thru the switch then to the door. Cut out the middleman and things are vastly better. No need to re invent the window assy.
I've wired up the ground switch relay on the driver's side. It's probably one second faster going up... about the same going down. But it IS a little faster. Cost more than a few bucks though. The relays alone were 12 bucks a piece... although I'm sure I could have gotten cheaper ones I wanted a brand I knew so I got Bosch. So 48 bucks or so in relays and then if you have to purchase wire and connectors there's a bit more there but I had the wire and connectors. I think I'm going to 3d print a box for the relays to rest in and then seal it up. My only annoyance with this method is you have to tie into the original wiring which I didn't particularly want to do. But is what it is, unless you want to run your own dedicated power which is the other option... I MAY do that on the passenger if the current ground switch doesn't give me much joy.
Ammeter check at the motor with stock wiring will show the current draw, 9+ amps and voltage drop to 9 or so.. pulling separate power and using relays is the way to go. Keeps the voltage up and loses low. Those motors pull decent amperage esp when the grease and tracks are sticky.
You can make a quick test check by running a separate +12 V high gauge power cable from as close to the battery as possible and directly to the window motor and record the time it takes for the window to close / open (Also try to measure the voltage drop during the process). That will tell you how bad your original wiring / contact set up is and might motivate you to perform the rather big job it is to install an extra power cable through the chassis and narrow door opening. You can also try to pull a separate ground cable and see if that adds any improved speed - I doubt this, but the ground connection could also weak. Best, Peter
