I know just about everyone who owns a Dino struggles with the speed of their power windows. (Assuning you have them.) While wandering through the 348 threads, I found this: http://ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?p=135799133#post135799133 Which lead to this: http://www.btinternet.com/~frazer.smith1/ferrari/ferrariwindow.html After a little fiddling, and some rerouting of the wiring, it WORKS!!! Not only does it work, but it works GREAT!!! Windows now take less than 1/3 the time to wind up, and I can put them up and down without starting the car!!! I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THESE TO ANY OF YOU WHO ARE ANNOYED BY YOUR SLOW POWER WINDOWS. With freight, about $60. I think Daniel at Ricambi will have them soon, too. Dave M. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dave, many thanks for the lead - heaven sent. Was it easy to adapt to the 246 wiring? Do you know how it works? Andy
Rewired the box with two leads, and male and female spade connectors to make hook up easy. Yes, the 1st one cost me a chunk of thumb (band-aid illustrates that) I'll take a bunch of pictures as I gotomorrow, and see if I can put together a coherent step by step description. 1st one took about 45 minutes, I expect the second one will take maybe 25. Dave Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Frazer has come up with an inventive solution that works. I spent a couple of hours last week putting these things in my car and am pleased with the results.
First things first. Driver side is easier than passenger side. Wiring on placed is in such a way that the passenger motor's wires are on the back, away from the opening. Better hope you have a leftie who can help with this side. See picture in first post. Step ZERO. Re-wire the box with two spade connectors. I'm told that you can order them this way, if true, do so, save a step. Step one. Pull the door panel. we've all done that a million times so I'll skip those details. Step two. Find a way in to the motor space without dismantling the whole door. Roll UP the window. Gives a little more room to stick a stray arm in. I found the only way in to be through the speaker hole. Mine have obviously been cut and re-cut a couple times, but, a little work, and I'm in!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Next step. Stick a paw in and feel around for the two plugs on the window motor. Easier said than done. I couldn't even get a picture of where they attach. Disconnect either one, but NOT BOTH!!. Pluge the male spade connection that you've already spliced onto the magic box into the female connector you pulled off the motor. If you're lucky, it'll stretch all the way out the opening to plug into. Plug the female connector from the box onto the spade connector you just pulled the other plug off of. HALF WAY HOME!!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Repeat the process for the other connection to the window motor. OK, all done the wiring process, now you have to find a place to hang the black box so that it won't rattle, interfere with the window operation, or get in the way of the speaker. I tied it to the main wiring harness leading from the front of the door to the back of the door. 2 plactic zip ties was all I needed. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Only thing left is to make sure you have a good ground for the box. Best way to test is run the window up without the blue wire attached to the ground. Mid way up, touch it to your selected grounding place. If the speed picks up, GOOD GROUND. If not, try another spot, or clean the contacts at the ground and try agian. The window won't work if the wiring is wrong (missed a connection, one worked loose) so there's no need to worry about your hook up, just your ground. If the window won't move at all, check all your connections. And then test your ground again. If you can reach them, it wouldn't hurt at this point to wrap all the connections with a little electric tape. The more water protection on these connections the better. NOT THAT WE GO OUT IN THE RAIN WITH OUR CARS. But even washing them can get some water in the doors. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Last step. Put the speaker back in place, and button up the door panel. You'll be VERY PLEASED with the results!!! Trust me. Dave M. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks, I almost have the bleeding stopped!! gonna take on the exhaust next, swapping out the 3 yr old Stebro for a nice new ANSA. I'll try to detail that adventure, too. Dave
Dave, you da man! I also saw the 348 window thread awhile back and made a mental note to try this out after my wedding. Thanks for doing the test run for us.
Great job, I'd been looking this as my passenger side window is slower than the Driver's side. BTW, get some latex gloves and prevent infection to an open sore.
RAN OUT IN BETWEEN THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE. Hopefully I won't fall over from some awful infection, if I do, you can have my car!!! (After you pay my family the appropriate market value, of course.) Dave
By the way, Frazer now offers the booster boxes with the "Y" connectors already installed as a no-charge option.
Just had them installed in my Mondial. The windows moved like an hour hand before. Now, they are almost normal! Good stuff.
