Window wegulatow woes

you checked the voltage under load or without load?

 

I wouldn't say it's completely a voltage problem or IOW, that the solution is all in the voltage regulation. Positive proof is with your passenger side.

The common problem with these systems are the motors (bearings rusting) and the grease in the gearboxes oxidizing and stiffening. Reducing your electrical resistance masks the real issue IMO which is mechanical resistance.

There are plenty of threads around. Here's one for starters.

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/317940-power-window-rebuild.html

PS. I fixed my drivers side almost 3 years ago and it's still like new. I left the passenger side for now and it's still as bad as it's always been.

Pics below:
1. Degreasing the original ****
2. Set up for the near impossible double cable winding
3. Tool to keep the winding intact for reassembly
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I like your cable keeper block. Much better than masking tape I've used.

 

IOW = In Other Words. I just got that myself.

BTW - After what you accomplished on the trans-axle, I think you can do the window motors in your sleep.

I've done many of these on 308's. I'm getting motivated to get these sorted on the 512. They're a relatively straightforward and rewarding project. That grease does turn to glue. Cleaning does offer great joy. From memory, when re-assembling, the trick is not to get the cable as tight as possible, but positioned to not allow it to jump off the pulleys. Also, if the cable is frayed - replace it. It contributes to distressed sounds as the glass moves.

 

There's not much on fixing TR issues that I didn't learn here especially when fixing the window actuators.

Here are a few tips but I'm going off memory so others should correct me if I'm wrong:

-Take plenty of pics during the disassembly
-Secure the glass (tape to the door sill in full closed position) before removing it from its bracket. You can later drop it but make sure it rests on a 2x4 and not all the way down.
-Draw diagram of the cable routing and take detailed pics. The WSM is incorrect in this regard
-Disassemble Actuator Gearbox from Motor.
-Inspect rear Motor bearing. This will likely show signs of corrosion so apply some oil and fire it up seperatley.
-Disaassemble Gearbox and apply a liberal amount of degreaser. Work off the old grease (green in color from memory)
-Clean and repeat with fresh degreaser until all is gone. Clean the Motor worm drive also
-Pack Gearbox with fresh grease. I used lithium which works well but others have mentioned Redline CV grease
-Now for the PITA rewinding.
-First build a tool so that you're ready to fix the cable once the next step is completed.
-Anchor the actuator and pull the cable so that it's semi tight. I used the hand rail of my basement stairs. You cannot fully unwind it because it's suppose to wind back onto itself. Just make sure there are no obstructive overlaps. This will take some trial and error to get right.
-Once you're done rewinding it, fix it with the tool to ensure it doesn't come loose again.
-Reassemble the way it was before you removed it. Remember, the WSM shows an incorrect routing in one area.
-Make sure the cable DOES NOT scrape ANYTHING ANYWHERE.
-Fix bracket back onto the glass in top position (retape window to sill)
-Test it out and you should be done.

Again, this is all from memory but I do remember capturing each step in a thread which I cannot find. I'll also post more pictures later tonight.

Good luck and don't hesitate to ask if you have questions.

PS. In my case, it was BOTH the grease AND the Motor bearing. I was able to confirm this seperatley. If you're lucky enough to only have a motor bearing issue (unlikely IMO), then try applying oil to it whilst everything is still assembled and give it a whirl.

 

Good tips. Yeh, the clutch and TOB job taught me a lot. Apart from the realignment, it wasn't a such a bad job.

 

Before taking out that mess they call a regulator, measure the voltage drop across the switches when operating. If it's significant, disassemble the switch and clean the contacts. Start there first.

 

here are the pics I can find if they are of any use.

Pic. 1. correct cable overlap (wrong in WSM)
Pic. 2. correct cable loop around the drum, if that's what it's called
Pic. 3. winding set up. I now remember there were grooves for the cable to sit in. That should help to align the cable as you spool it up.

Turbojoe and Tbakowsky are right. Eliminate the easy ones before diving into this.
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Just do this job when you are in the right frame of mind (Patient and appreciative of the hand workmanship that makes these great cars (Sorry for the sales job ) and it'll come out fine. Study the action. If you've already disassembled, just rationalize the travel for mounting points on the cables. You have two "gotcha's" to be aware of. First is setting cable on pulleys in correct order, watch cable cross-over points. Second is getting cable set right on pulley grooves.

N-joy!

 

I have a couple of those electrickery boxes lying about that help speed up windows if that helps Scott.

Phil

 

Good Luck Scott