Hi fellers, Last week, my turn indicators and windows stopped working on my 77 GTB. I'm assuming a fuse or realy issue but I'm such a mechanical ditz that, in looking at my manual, I can't determine what controls what, fuse and or relays, that is. I have a Birdman fuseblock installed...what would I be looking for as far as blown glass fuses are concerned? Or does this sound more like a relay? As always, any help is very much appreciated. Thank you, Scott
Scott, If you have time come by tomorrow and I'll help you give it a look over. Sounds like one of the relays or could be a wire has come off the back of the ignition switch that triggers the relays. Can someone confirm if the wiring on the carb cars is pretty much the same as the injected cars? I have a blown up schematic for the injected cars that is really handy. cheers, Sean
Scott, Your brake lights and radiator fan relays probably aren't working as well. If that's the case, it's the 16 amp fuse in the left box, position 1. If the fuse is good, look on the back of the fuse block for melted connections. Barry
+1 for Barry's diagnosis of fuse #1 but I'd look for a reason why it blew. If it blew once, chances are the fuse will blow again. The full list of possible circuits which get voltage through that fuse are wipers, turn signals, stop brake lights, radiator & window relay coils. Relay coils are the yellow wire. Stop light is the red wire which goes to the pedal switch. Blue wire with black trace are wipers. Yellow wire with black trace is the turn signal circuit but the wire actually goes to the hazard switch. The way to troubleshoot a persistent fuse blowing problem where one fuse feeds 4 circuits is to remove all but one wires from the bottom of the fuse, and add them back one at a time until the fuse blowing starts again, then trace that circuit. Not a big problem to do as none of those wires are essential for driving the car except perhaps the stop lights, so I'd first leave them on fuse #1, alone. If nothing, add the turn signal wire back, then the relay coils for windows and radiator fans. And finally the yellow/black turn signal wire which goes into the center tunnel for the hazard switch. Chances are you have a wire in the trunk are to the stop light being pinched, or the wire to the hazard light switch getting pinched. And you may have had a bad fuse...that is very possible. My last long trip which involved night time driving, I lost my (ATO) fuse, involving loss of parking lights on one side and gauge lights but it hasn't happened again since. First put in a new 15A fuse and see if it blows again. ___________________________ http://www.FerrariDiagrams.com
Many thanks, fellers. I will try the 16 amp fuse replacement tomorrow and then have Cavallo check everything, as I'm bringing the car in this week anyway ;-) With much appreciation, Scott
Hi fellers Just got er fixed. It was, indeed, fuse # 1. Thanks again for all the help. Also, I will check into this further, as to why the fuse may have blown in the first place. But I may also wait to see if it does it again. I'm carrying spares with me ;-) Kind regards, Scott
I agree with your plan. I will add what I actually did when my gauge + fuse blew although I don't recommend this for anyone else. I took the 4 circuits which were fed by the blown fuse and made a 4 place fuse block...separate fuses for each. Then drove the car in similar circumstances (headlights on) for several hours, several different days. Nothing happened but I still think a wire got pinched rather than having a bad fuse. Intermittents require repeatability to troubleshoot without leaving doubts. And yes, everyone should carry spare fuses, and the a good place is next to the fuse panel in a sandwich baggy taped to the panel. I have one advantage in making my fuse panel to use mini-ATO fuses and chose those with leds on the top which indicate a blown fuse. But a test light in the luggage compartment is still a mandatory tool as well. Something I wish I had done when I spent time in the fuse/relay compartment, was to provide an easy ground for the test light. Food for thought for others when the add the Birdman block or spend any effort in that area. Easy to get carried away unless you are doing the carrying.
Hi Scott, sorry for hijacking this old thread of yours, but I just recently experienced exactly the same problems with my 1978 carb'd Euro 308 GTB. First the windows stopped working, some time later the indicators. Brake lights and radiator fans as well. A quick visual check of the fuses didn't appear to show problems, but rotating them in the seats and removing and reattaching the wires didn't cure the problem. Then I thought it could be a ground cable problem, but all efforts in this area didn't help, either. Just after searching FChat yet again, I found this thread and gave the fuse #1 a second thought. Indeed, after exchanging it, everything works again! It looks like the lower end cap of the fuse was damaged/melted, almost invisible to the bare eye. Image Unavailable, Please Login Anyway, what I would like to know: Have you ever discovered why the fuse #1 on your car blew in the first place? Best regards, Robert 308 GTB Register www.308gtb.de
Yea commiserate with the performance and integrity of the old fuses. I found a pack of them at my local autozone $1 each. Not an expensive fix for a Ferrari.
