Winter Running of Car.

Nothing wrong, except that the Maranello is no cat that needs to be protected against water .

Just one note perhaps. Take care to lead the exhaust gases out of the garage. Otherwise the water in the exhaust gas will rapidly saturize the atmosphere in the garage and you will be soaking everything with moisture/water, not much different that going out in the rain.

Cheers, Bernhard

 

I'm open to being proven wrong, but for normal winter storage, I've always felt it's better to just leave the car alone unless I can take it out for a proper drive. Winter storage is usually only 3-4 months, as long as the battery is maintained (I use a battery tender), the car should be fine sitting for a few months. That said, I drive until salt is put on the roads. No salt, I keep driving. Not sure why you don't want to drive in the rain, but it's your car and your choice. It doesn't rain every day in the winter there does it? Can't you just wait a few more days until the rain stops and then go for a drive?

 

There is really no way to prove right and wrong on this issue, but most (as do I) say just leave it as well. Properly treated fuel and battery maintainer is all you need for a couple of months.

 

Keep in mind that besides fluids warming up, there are many parts that will experience thermal expansion. (Just think of how much these cars tick as soon as you shut them down.) That's why I fell more comfortable just leaving everything as is rather than disturbing with heat. Not that I think anything will happen, but it doesn't seem necessary. Cold metal parts are perfectly happy being cold. I suppose maybe seals are better off with some action now and again, but as said, we are only talking about a few months.

 

I only filled up the fueltank with non ethanol 98 RON and switched off the power.

I'll see if that was OK in March.

 

I did the same thing as Sharknose67 ...I filled it with non ethanol fuel and switched off the battery....I live at 9000ft so my winter break is about 4.5 months long. It seemed to work fine last year...if I get an opportunity I do take it out for a drive but that is for my well being

 

Varellas4, I would not worry much about the car getting wet.
I find it is also beneficial to clean and treat the exterior and interior of the car before extended garage time.

 

Why is it better to have a full tank of gas rather than 1/4 tank of gas?

 

Most engine wear occurs just after starting the car. Why do that several times in the winter???? Do you like extra wear on the engine?. Just maintain the battery.

 

i run all my cars once a month

 

Andrew- Not an issue with modern 0W and 5W weight oils, which flow fine at low temperatures. 17 F this morning here and I took 135171 down to the post office without even thinking about it. Just have to take it easy on the tires, which do not work as well as they do in the summer.

Better for a Ferrari to drive it in the wet than leave it in the garage. Just wash the bloody thing next time it dries out in SF. Most of the summer performance tires work fine in the wet. Stay away from deep puddles, though.

 

It shouldn't be necessary with non ethanol gasoline, but better safe than sorry.

The ethanol in the gasoline is hygroscopic. If you fill the tank for only a quarter there is a lot of room for "wet" air.

 

It is better to have a full tank of fuel because that allows less volume of air above the gasoline and less water vapor to condense into the tank when temperatures change.

 

that and also in the old days when tanks were steel you would/could get rust on the inside of the tank surface.

 

Yesterday was the first dry day with temps above 40, so I unplugged the C-TEK and went for a 30 mile drive. I, too, try to be careful when driving with summer tires at lower temps.

 

Lance, I haven't had my car out of the garage for a couple of months. I do not like the handling characteristics on cold or wet roads. I have had negative experiences with both. I suppose that owners in colder regions laugh at 45F being cold. But heating up the car without moving does not move all of the parts. Next dry day, take her out. Just don't drive with the same gusto that you would on a summer day.

 

Good point. Should I add some fuel additive like "Stabil" to the tank of gas?

 

Affirmative, keeps the gasoline from separating into different weight components.

 

Yes but at the correct ratio. Only problems I've ever heard of related to fuel stabilizers is the over usage/dosage as it were

 

I normally just add stabil (use the ethanol protection version) place in a a trickle charger but i take it out for a drive when time and weather permits . I have never had an issue with this method. some of my cars i don't get around to driving so they just stay in the heated garage for the winter start right up... in the spring. I do not recommend starting and let it idle if you can do that might as well take it for a drive but at the end of the day sitting 4 months will not hurt the car....

 

Absolutely nothing can replace a quick 10 or 15 mile sprint on the open roads. In addition, you will keep your new tires from flat spotting.

If you want your car perfect, never drive it. Otherwise, quit saving it for the next owner.

 

Someone here said something that really made sense. They said not driving your car is just like not having sex with your hot girlfriend and saving her for the next one or letting her years just go by without enjoying her... a total waste no matter what. The cars are made to be driven in hot or cold, rain or shine.
Steve in NY

 

I agree with you. I do that every month for the 4 months period the car stays in the garage. I also inflate the tires a bit more.

However, if the roads around home are not covered with filthy salt, I do try to take her out for a 15-20 min drive as nothing beats a bit of "real" exercise.

 

I live in Minnesota, thus storing motor vehicles for an extended period is an annual ritual that one tries to perfect over the years.

I will say that starting it up and letting it idle is not a good idea. The oil does not get hot enough and condensation is the result. Water and byproducts of combustion become acidic and etch metal surfaces. This can contribute to oil consumption issues and bearing failure down the road. That said, I do believe that it is good to "tick over" the engine to change the position of valve springs, etc. a time or two, but am not religious about doing so. Rolling the car a quarter turn of the tire helps with flatspots as well.

My usual recipe for storage? Fresh oil change (and other fluids as required). Full tank of non-oxy with the recommended amount of Sta-bil or SeaFoam. Over inflate tires to 50PSI. Plug in the CTEK. Wash the car far enough ahead of time to ensure that residual moisture can evaporate. Cover. Result? A car ready for spring commissioning with minimal concern...