| Author | Message | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Member Username: Steve Post Number: 463 Registered: 2-2001 |
Steve BINGO. Looks like #1 and #2 top contact is the problem. I just brought the NAPA fuse blocks to do the conversion so it looks like I'm going to need to do it. #2 & #3 are OK but it must be the rear tie bar that is loose in the rivets. Thanks for the help here. With all of the talk about the fuse blocks lately you would think I would have checked the back. | ||
| Mike Florio (Mike_in_nevada)
New member Username: Mike_in_nevada Post Number: 44 Registered: 6-2003 |
I didn't get this from your post, but did you check the wire runs from the individual turn signal lights to the switch? According to the wiring diagram for my '75 308/GT4 (which should be similar) power goes from the fuse block to the flasher relay, then to the turn signal switch and the emergency flasher switch, and then to the individual lights which are grounded nearby. If you unplug the flasher relay, you should see an open (Max Ohms) between the two poles of each light socket. If you see any measurable resistance you have a high resistance short between the light and the column turn signal switch. If all of those runs are open to ground, try the same test with the emergency flasher switch enabled. If you find a resistance to ground there, then your problem is between the blinker relay and the emergency flasher switch. If not try the same thing with the column switch enabled for each bank of lights (L or R). | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 2109 Registered: 1-2001 |
Steve -- Add an external jumper wire between the top of fuse #2 and the top of fuse #1 and try your directionals again. If the directionals then work OK, you need to: 1. rework/solder your existing fuseblock to better tie the top of fuses #1, #2, and #3 together electrically (which is what the rivets and small plate on the backside of the fuseblock are supposed to be doing). There's a good shot of some fuseblocks reworked by Verell B. in this thread: http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/295875.html (although it doesn't specifically show the backside of the left fuseblock), or 2. get a new fusebox, or 3. both (Don't worry yet about the alternator light coming on -- probably just another symptom of your problem. IIRC the top of fuse #3 is part of the alternator warning light stuff so if it too is not well connected to the top of fuse #2 you could get some weird behavior there.) Have you done a search on "308 fuse solder" or "308 fuse box" (AND mode)? This ain't exactly a new topic ("flaky fuseblocks" should be on that top 5 list for 308 problems  ). | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Member Username: Steve Post Number: 462 Registered: 2-2001 |
OK Steve done it. fuse #2 is at 13.75V +/- and holds steady when you turn on the directionals. Both the top and bottom of fuse #1 drops to 3.65V and the alt light turns on when I turn on the directional sign. in either direction (left or right). The alt light goes off when I go to the neutral position. Still SLO , any other direction to go in? Thanks | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 2108 Registered: 1-2001 |
Steve -- If the fuse you are dealing with is #1 (the leftmost fuse of the left box) try: 1. measure the voltage on the large azure (bluish) wire coming into the top of fuse #2 -- this should be +12V (and stay +12V during step #2) with the key on. 2. turn the direction lights "on" and measure the voltage on the top terminal and bottom terminal of fuse #1 -- if they both fall down to the 5V then you've got a high impedance in the built-in (riveted) fuseblock connection between the top of fuse #2 and the top of fuse #1. | ||
| Steve (Steve)
Member Username: Steve Post Number: 461 Registered: 2-2001 |
OK I've been playing with this problem for a few days and can't seem to sort it out. Here is how it started. -Driving home temp went to 190 and fans did not come on -Directional signals did not work -checked fuses and relays all good -seperated fan relay wire from fan/signal fuse -hooked up fan wire and fans work -directional signals still not working -volt meter on signal fuse and voltage drop when you turn on directional signal (13V down to 5V)also alt. light came on) -seperated directional sign.plug at column and tested switch (no short found , good continuity) -checked signal lights (frt and rear) with seperate 12v source and all works) -haz. warning lights all work and flash -replaced flasher and still large voltage drop at dir. switch plug -problem seems to be from fuse block to directional signal plug (can't sort out schematic) So I'm thinking that I have a high resistance short somewhere but can't seem to isolate.I am not blowing fuses but when I move the directional signal lever I have a 6-8V drop at the fuse and this wire is the only on that fuse position and it is tight. I'm stuck so any help here would be appreciated. |