| Author | Message | ||
| Jay Morris (Jm3)
New member Username: Jm3 Post Number: 21 Registered: 10-2002 |
So while we are on this subject... Where can I get a drivers window motor assembly for a 308 gt4? The one I have is unrepairable. Any help is appreciated. Jay (I have not been able to sign up for Ferrari-uk website, as apparently the usernames of "JM3", "Don_Quixote", "My_first_car_was_a_Buick" and "I_give_up,_I've_got_work_to_do" have all been taken.) | ||
| Jeff Howe (Ferrari_uk)
Member Username: Ferrari_uk Post Number: 302 Registered: 12-2002 |
Hi Russ - Glad it worked out for you without $$ As for pricing - GT Cars' part was the rear part, the electrical switch, ours was the whole thing with steering lock, housing etc. Don't think we list just the switch part. The man fix it now anyway !! | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1480 Registered: 4-2002 |
After talking with you, Russ, I can appreciate the comments! <g> Hans. (a fellow GT4 sufferer) PS - we gotta do a beer sometime. | ||
| Russ Gould (Russ)
Junior Member Username: Russ Post Number: 52 Registered: 2-2003 |
It was just a bad connection in the fuse box, the rivet thing, was only getting 7.5 volts to the relays. A little solder and presto, everything works. I discovered that the window and fan circuits don't even go thru the ignition switch. At least not the excitation circuits. Given the interesting prices on the ignition switches (to be polite), I am not only happy that the problems are now gone, but delighted that I escaped another Ferrari parts "gotcha". Had I been faced with the prospect of paying $600 for a stupid ignition switch, believe me I would have found a substitute. It's personal with me. | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 550 Registered: 11-2001 |
Whatever happened to the 'equalizing power of the internet' where it drives out all the middlemen costs, and make the prices of all equivalent produts the same, no matter where they are. There is a 5:1 ratio between the costs for the same part from GT Car Parts and that of Ferrari UK. | ||
| Erik R. K. Jonsson (Gamester)
Member Username: Gamester Post Number: 332 Registered: 11-2000 |
I got the rear electrical portion of the ignition switch from GT Car for under $130. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1477 Registered: 4-2002 |
Let's see........ $600 for ign sw, $1000 for 'column switch'. I think the solution is to not use these switches. So, never drive in the dark or rain, don't turn at intersections, and don't turn the car off! | ||
| Mitchell Le (Yelcab1)
Member Username: Yelcab1 Post Number: 549 Registered: 11-2001 |
Quote: ----- Russ - if you need an ignition switch, don't know what availability is like over there but we have them here, #168785 at $571. ----- Here's to hoping I never need one of those. Ouch. | ||
| Jeff Howe (Ferrari_uk)
Member Username: Ferrari_uk Post Number: 297 Registered: 12-2002 |
Hi all. Russ - if you need an ignition switch, don't know what availability is like over there but we have them here, #168785 at $571. Anyway...good luck - electrical stuff is a nightmare ! | ||
| Russ Gould (Russ)
Junior Member Username: Russ Post Number: 51 Registered: 2-2003 |
Thanks, guys, I spent the afternoon pondering my fusebox (thankfully it's a Series 3, about the only thing easy to access on this car), and I have narrowed it down to the power feed to the window circuit fuses, a fat red wire, which (in my case) is also the power feed to the two fan circuits via a shunt wire from the one fuse rack to the other (obviously not OEM). I think it's the ignition switch! Hopefully a loose connection. I have no idea what happened to the azure wire that's supposed to feed both fan circuits. No sign of it. And no, I did not fit electronic ignition, all I did was replace one rotor and the plug wires prior to this event. All ran for about half a day after I put the car back on the road after a long period of tinkering, then these circuits suddenly died. | ||
| Mike Dawson (Miked)
Junior Member Username: Miked Post Number: 100 Registered: 2-2001 |
The fuses in the series 2 cars are much easier to access. A thin aluminum (leather covered) strip at the bottom of the dash pops off and there they are in all their glory.  | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1472 Registered: 4-2002 |
Oh, and PS: A couple of things that I'd add to Gerrit's excellent instructions - 1) The vinyl ends of the glove box can glue themselves in place. You'll need a kitchen knife or putty blade to pry the glove box loose. 2) The nuts inside the instrument panel may seem unreachable, but a box end wrench will find them. 3) The emergency light socket is plastic, and held on with a flat nut. I think removing it was the most difficult part of the process for me. A pair of pliers should dislodge it, and finger tight should be good 'nuff on the reinstall. 4) There are a few minor missing details, but if I could figure them out, I'm sure you guys can also. I remember having a bit of an argument with the glove box latch and light. I eventually won. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1471 Registered: 4-2002 |
Here's the link for GT4 glove box removal. Once the glove box is out, the rest is obvious. http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/256120/142250.html Note that in Gerrit's description, he says that Series 2 cars are different. I'd be curious as to how they differ. | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1464 Registered: 4-2002 |
Russ: If you do have to remove the fusebox, let me/us know. I have a link to a detailed blow-by-blow of how to do it on a GT4. W/o instructions, it ain't easy because of the glove box. Also, be very sure to completely solder up all connections on the fusebox if you take it out. That's the only permanent cure. | ||
| Gerrit Visser (Gerritv)
Junior Member Username: Gerritv Post Number: 195 Registered: 6-2001 |
Hi I bet your brake lights and turn signals don't work either. It is the LH or second to LH fuse. Or the fuse block. Or the feed to the fuse block. (Ask me how I know, had all 3 ahppen in the past 2 years!). A very close examination (tiny lines on the owners manual) of the wiring diagram will reveal that one circuit powers a lot of relays as an enabling voltage. I have a pdf of the diagram, 4MB though. | ||
| Steve Magnusson (91tr)
Intermediate Member Username: 91tr Post Number: 1855 Registered: 1-2001 |
Russ -- With a multimeter measure the voltage (with key "on") on the top and bottom terminals of the #1 (leftmost) fuse (both should be +12V) --from the symptoms you describe, I'd guess that you've got a fusebox "open". The food chain is: Power comes in the large azure (bluish) wire to the top of fuse #2 Bridged by the fusebox over to the top of fuse #1 thru fuse #1 to run the relays controlling the windows, the relays for the cooling fans, etc. (you can check your OM for the other things run by fuse #1 to see if they're not working either). Did you recently install an aftermarket ignition system? | ||
| Hans E. Hansen (4re_gt4)
Intermediate Member Username: 4re_gt4 Post Number: 1462 Registered: 4-2002 |
I'd say shoot it and put it out of it's misery. Seriously, do you have the wiring diagram? Mine's at home, but I can have a look shortly. Sounds like either a fusebox issue or a relay. If it's the fusebox, the fuses themselves will show OK. But inspect the plastic above and below the fuses for signs of melting, and/or possibly discoloration on the copper bits and pieces due to heat. | ||
| Russ Gould (Russ)
New member Username: Russ Post Number: 50 Registered: 2-2003 |
Suddenly both windows won't work, up or down. Separate circuits don't die at the same time, can't be the switches or the motors. Fuses look OK. Have cleaned up the main ground at the batty. Still no luck. Any ideas? Relay (are there not two?). May be unrelated but my cooling fans won't come on either now. |