Throwout bearing / Thrust bearing / clutch release bearing

Throw out bearing, or clutch realse bearing are the names I know as for the Testarossa.

I replaced mine last time I did the engine out 7 yrs ago, if memory serves me, I seem to recall it was $700 .... Mine made the same noise, whether I was backing out, or going in first.

Good luck

 

When the clutch is all the way in the bearing that start to work is the pilot(spigot) bearing in the crank. This can make a noise too.

 

I just read your description again and the throwout bearing makes more sense.

 

This is more of a truism on the earlier design architecture where the throwout bearing has no contact at all with the pressure plate mechanism with the clutch pedal up (throwout bearing doesn't rotate) vs heavy contact with the clutch pedal down (and throwout bearing does rotate). TR use the later design architecture with the throwout bearing always in contact with the pressure plate release mechanism -- so it always rotates in either case (but the load is higher with clutch pedal down so that situation is usually still more noisy when things go wrong, but not always).

The clutch assembly doesn't know whether you are in first gear or reverse gear -- so if you don't have the same noise in first gear operation, I wouldn't be (too ) worried about a little noise in reverse gear operation being related to the clutch assembly -- JMO. Do you have the same audible symptom in first gear operation?

 

Hi Joe, can you complete the rest of your profile so we know where in the World you are located. Makes it easier to know who can help you out.

 

maybe this helps. I think I have the same thing going on.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/414330-chirping-sound-when-releasing-clutch.html

 

Mine makes a short, dirty "buzz", more often than not, right at the meaningful engagement point in reverse operation sometimes, but, if it's doing it in 1st occasionally too, I haven't noticed it.

I'd need way, way more motivation to hassle with, or pay for, opening up the pumpkin for my symptom (but your symptom may be worse). I'll put it down to a little natural vibrating/rattling of the clutch disk components in the transition from unclamped to fully clamped (and having 2 doesn't lessen the probability of something like that happening )

 

Here you go, this is a short presentation on how to replace the thrust race.

Ferrari Testarossa clutch thrust race.ppt

Let me know if you need any more help.

P

 

The clutch thrust race is open to dust and dirt from the double clutch.

If you need to save a little cash and make the bearing last longer its worth a good wash out and regrease. this might not stop the "buzz" but at least it may make it last a few more thousands of miles. The thrust race is a silly expensive part for what it does in my opinion.

Phil

 

Guy's,

It's time. I can't stand the "chirping" sound any longer and my clutch is beginning to slip. I think I definately have to change the TO Bearing at a minimum and possibly a clutch in worst case. I'll start the disassembly tonight and post some updates.

In the meantime, I read a while ago about where to purchase the correct TO bearing but can't seem to locate the thread. I remember reading that the cheaper one did not fit as well or something like that. Any recommendations on where to purchase the correct bearing? Apparently Ricambi only have the Ferrari part, not an aftermarket. I've also been told that the '87 version is significantly different to the later versions. Hmmm????

 

Sam,

Not sure if there is a difference between the T/O bearing over the years. IIRC it is the same part number. I wrote the below entry in the cross reference thread (BTW I bought mine directly from Ferrari):


Late 1990+ TR Clutch Throw Out bearing. Fpimp $750, Maranello Classics $477.

Below is a cut and paste from a thread discussing said bearing.

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...ps5791ef3c.jpg

If you peel of the Ferrari label, it says Maranello Classics. They list the bearing on their web site for $477. Nice mark up Ferrari......A**holes. As least we know where to get the bearing at the best price. Now we need to find out who makes the bearing for Maranello Classics and go directly to the source.

 

Thanks Christian, that's the one. Once I've confirmed the TO bearing is shot, I'll order it. Right now, I'm having a few problems taking the exhaust off. I think I need some thin spanners to get to the last two.

PS. I've read the exhaust can be taken out the bottom without the valence coming off. I'm really finding that hard to believe right now. I'll know when I get there.

 

I've done the clutch and TO Bearing on my 91 TR. You can definitely remove the exhaust without removing the rear bumper. Just put the car on stands, remove the lower panel and you can lower it by hand with out any type of crane / lift.


Shamile

Freeze....Miami Vice!

 

Done, yep it was easy but heavier than I expected.

Update:
Clutch Bell Housing off. TO bearing does not feel as bad as I thought. A little gritty but it turns fine. Also slides well on its shaft with no signs of wear or damage. Bearing seals look fine too.

There is more oil residue than I have seen from other jobs posted. Is this a sign of other issues? TO Bearing seals perhaps?

Since I'm here, I thought I may as well go full on into the clutch. Removed the 6 nuts. Pressure Plate seems loose (rattles when I tap it) but it won't come off. Are there any other fasteners I need to remove or just some grunt work? WSM does not really say.
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if the "oil leak" comes from the TO bearing then you also may have a minimum of brake fluid because if the TO bearing ( the seal ) is not ok then there comes out brake fluid.
you may test what it is. but terrible job. have a beer or two beside
you take your finger and put it in brakefluid. then you test this brake fluid with your tongue. so you know how it taste ( I know meanwhile , so I don´t have to do this ) and then you may do the same with the "oil" in the housing. then you just taste if it is the same or not. if not then you may test gearbox oil on the same way as you tested brake fluid to check if it would be gearbox oil. but I think it is brakefluid.
this test-tastng is only for those who don´t know how the fluids taste.
have a good appetite and enjoy the beer after tasting brake fluid and may be also gearbox oil - 2 absolute different tastes

this all what I have written is no joke, even some may think so

 

I would put in a new TO ! The old one leaks definitively !

 

Finally off. The Clutch assembly was just seized onto the guide pins so I WD40'd them and gave them a couple of nice whacks.

Here's the deal:

Clutch plate on flywheel side looks near perfect. Measured average of 7.85mm. WSM = 8.2 with an allowable wear of 1.2mm = 7.0 MIN. I hope I'm reading that correctly.

Outboard Clutch however looks very worn. Measured average = 6.55mm.

Both are going out for resurfacing.

Fly wheel looks to have worn approximately 0.2mm since new. I'll leave that in.
Intermediate plate is the same. Since it's already off, I'll send that one out too for machining.

So my plan is to have the whole clutch assembly minus flywheel shipped out for reconditioning. I'm reading that Clutchmasters are the way to go. Any other suggestions would be appreciated.

Now I need to understand why the two clutch plates wore out so unevenly. Is this a symptom of a bad TO bearing or a sticky spline shaft? Is there anything else I need look at whilst it's apart? Crankshaft bearing looks OK so I'm not going to mess with that one either.

Order of pics:

1. Flywheel side clutch plate
2. Intermediate plate
3. Outboard clutch plate
4. Flywheel.

Thanks.
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Done. The leaked out oil is very acidic. Trans fluid was not. So the leak must be Brake fluid right?

If the TO Bearing seal leak is the problem, why would that cause the outboard clutch plate to wear more? Is that normal? I'll be changing it anyway so I can rest.

 

yes

the centrifugal power put the oil/brake fluid to the outside

have you had a beer already? otherwise you may taste the brake fluid the next 2 days. but instead of beer you may use milk, much better

 

I was tasting Brake fluid all night Anyway, I've been thinking about this.

If the Bearing itself feels OK and doesn't look like it's leaking, then why should i replace it? The noise I'm hearing around the beginning of clutch release (or is that clutch engagement??) is likely the resonance of the springs while the clutch is slipping and not the bearing itself. If it was the bearing, it would be heard all the time.

There is definitely clutch fluid leakage so I'm thinking of just ordering the seals. From the WSM, the bearing does not seal clutch fluid anyway so that wont solve any leak issues. The Bushing (15) looks OK too so I won't be spending >$400 on that either.

Has anyone replaced the seals only? Ricambi sells them both for about $50. I can only imagine they're a PITA to replace.

On another note, any tips or leads on a clutch alignment tool? I can't justify $100.
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