Testarossa ECU disconnect - running hot | FerrariChat

Testarossa ECU disconnect - running hot

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by tr-zeke, May 19, 2017.

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  1. tr-zeke

    tr-zeke Rookie

    Sep 5, 2016
    8
    Pacific Grove, CA
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    Bill
    #1 tr-zeke, May 19, 2017
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I have a 1990 Testarossa (US). I had a major service performed two years and about 3000 miles ago. At that time all injectors were replaced, as were the distirbutor caps, plugs, and cables. In addition, the cylinder heads were removed to remove carbon buildup and new valve guides were installed. New cylinder head bolts were used when replacing the heads.

    The car was running great until just a few weeks ago when the connection to the ECU failed. This prevented the car from starting. Took it in to my mechanic who found the problem and reconnected the ECU. As I drove the car home, I noticed that when I had to stop the car, the idle RPMs would drop to about 600, the engine light would come on, it sounded like the engine had stopped, but if I feathered the gas it would come back on. This happened several times and eventually I kept the RPMs about 1500-2000 when I came to stops. I thought maybe this was due to the ECU needing to "recalibrate" by getting some miles on it after the re-connection. I've driven it about 100-150 miles since, but a lot of it has been around town or local highways. I've been reluctant to drive it any great distance from home since it still isn't running correctly. I still get the symptoms mentioned above, and at times it seems like it starts chugging in 1st gear (as though not all cylinders are firing or some aren't get enough gas.

    Shortly after this happened, I was looking around the car and noticed the black part of the bumper above the driver side exhaust was damaged - as if it got too hot. I also noticed that the residue on the driver side exhaust was more whitish as opposed to the more normal black residue. Also, the Tubi exhaust system looks discolored at various points. I've attached a picture if this helps clarify my comments.

    My mechanic is looking into the matter. I've tried looking in this forum for similar problems. I've seen some things that look similar but I'm not sure they're the same thing.

    These were some of the things I've found or were thinking about. From what I've gathered it looks like there might be unburned fuel going to the cats which cause them to overheat. Note that the exhaust temperature overheat lights ('slow down 1-6") did not come on.

    1. Perhaps the plugs got fouled during the ECU disconnect issue. This is a rather simple thing to check.

    2. I found a thread about "multipin plugs on the coil pack" causing a problem for one owner. My mechanic had pulled the cable from the coil and verified that both were firing when the engine was running (they were). But again, maybe there is an issue when the engine isn't running correctly under certain conditions. I don't know where the "mujltipin" connections on the coil pack are, but I'm sure my mechanic does.

    3. Swap the ECUs and see if the condition follows the ECU. This sounded like an easy thing to do, but I don't really want to deform the bumper on the other side of the car, too. Seems like a smog testing machine might be able to provide a lot more information of what is coming out of the exhaust. Perhaps the temperature, too. FWIW I had to have the car smogged in March and it passed without any problems.

    4. Perhaps the MAF unit is faulty? I'm not sure what MAF stands for, but again if it is something to check, my mechanic can do so.

    Has anyone encountered a similar problem? Or some other possible things to check? I'd like to get back to driving the car, but am a bit leery until this gets resolved.

    If more information is needed, please let me know. The car is in the shop right now, so if information is needed from the car it will take a bit more time than if it were in my garage.

    Thanks in advance for any and all help.
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  2. tr-zeke

    tr-zeke Rookie

    Sep 5, 2016
    8
    Pacific Grove, CA
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    Bill
  3. tr-zeke

    tr-zeke Rookie

    Sep 5, 2016
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    Pacific Grove, CA
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    Bill
  4. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Dec 9, 2003
    16,262
    wisconsin/chicago
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    bo
    Yep, my issue was an fuel pump...

    Go get a laser thermometer, super useful.

    Shoot each manifold and get the temp. If it's running lean, you will immediately know.

    You may also have a bank out...

    Of course you could just touch each side exhaust with your hand, but that's less fun...
     
  5. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
    8,934
    southwest germany and thailand
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    romano schwabel
    as I remember those fuel regulators also mercedes used in their 500 model
    you have the bosch number stamped on the housing? I think I have here still 1 or 2 regulators, but not sure.
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    25,153
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
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    I had the same immediate thought ("What!? The pressure regulator isn't available anymore!?"), but I believe the OP used a little bit of a wrong name in his description. The thread that he referenced is a discussion about the EHA (which does do some pressure "regulation" inside the fuel distributor in its function), and the EHA specifically calibrated for F KE-Jet is no longer available (so Larry F. recalibrates the EHA that is still available from its -10mA -to- +10mA operation spec to the F 0mA -to- +20mA operation spec).
     
  7. turbo-joe

    turbo-joe F1 Veteran

    Apr 6, 2008
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    romano schwabel
    sorry for missunderstanding:
    I thaught the fuel pressure regulator for the system fuel pressure, in the back line where it is going back to the fuel tank, not the EHA
     
  8. tr-zeke

    tr-zeke Rookie

    Sep 5, 2016
    8
    Pacific Grove, CA
    Full Name:
    Bill
    First let me apologize for not using the correct terms for these parts. I know how important it is for communication and resolving problems. I'll redouble me efforts to be more precise.

    One of the fuel pumps was replaced about 8000 miles ago (2013). Both fuel pumps are functioning properly. There was plenty of gas getting to the EHA, which were indeed leaking. Although I hadn't put a lot of miles on the car since this first started, it did make me concerned about a possible fire.

    The original EHAs are on their way to Larry to recalibrate. Sounds like this might take a few weeks to get back. But at least I'll have a car I can drive safely.

    Although the "Slow down" lights did not ever come on, I'm wondering if this condition may have damaged the catalytic converters. I just had the car smogged a couple months ago (before this started), so I'm sure I'll find out the next time it gets smogged (2 years) whether there was any damage to the cats. I put probably less than 100 miles on the car while it was in this state, so I would think they would be OK. I know I could take it to a smog station at any time, but am a bit concerned of what they might force me to do if it fails. If the cats are bad, although the car may be producing more pollution, would there be any serious problems that might occur if I run it in this condition? Or is it better to get it fixed / checked ASAP?

    And thank you bpu699 for mentioning the laser thermometer. I hadn't even thought of it, but I'm going to get one right now!

    Thanks also to Steve and turbo-joe for also replying and assisting me with this issue and clarifying some of my previous posts. It is very much appreciated.

    Once I get the EHAs back and installed I will update this thread to let everyone know how this worked out. ETA is mid-July.

    Thanks everyone!
     
  9. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,138
    Austin TX
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    Brian Crall
    If the exhaust is stock the precats are easily damaged in an overheat. It is hard to imagine them surviving especially if you have external evidence of the exhaust overheat. They break up internally and clog themselves. That has a negative impact on both power production but also engine longevity. High back pressure is not good for the engine. You should have the exhaust disconnected at the header collectors and take a look inside.

    That kind of an overheat has set quite a few Testarossas on fire. Make certain it is repaired prior to driving the car. I have seen quite a few burned TR's since they were new cars and why I am such a big advocate of keeping the warning lights operational on them if catalytic converter equipped. The 3rd car we delivered in 1985 caught fire from an overheated cat and I had the car stripped bare like a chicken bone from the tail lights to the fuse box as a warranty repair.
     
  10. bpu699

    bpu699 F1 World Champ
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    Well... one could always...ahem...clean out the precats... ahem, and use test pipes... to avoid fires :) Outside of California. at least... Not that I would.

    A lot of these cars seem to flash the slow down light even though it has nothing to do with an overheat. You cant overheat without cats... yet lights come on. Or, so I have heard... It would be nice if someone came up with a fix for this or bypass that works...
     
  11. Rifledriver

    Rifledriver Three Time F1 World Champ

    Apr 29, 2004
    34,138
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    Brian Crall
    It would be nice if people came up with a lot of things but then someone needs to pay for them and no one wants to do that.

    Most just unplug the warning system and hope for the best. If the cars are kept running correctly it isn't a problem but then most just believe an Italian tune up will fix anything.

    Never had a cat temp warning in our car and never will. Just make it run right. Not that hard.
     
  12. tr-zeke

    tr-zeke Rookie

    Sep 5, 2016
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    Pacific Grove, CA
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    Bill
    I had replaced the stock exhaust with a Tubi exhaust about 4000 miles ago (during the last major service). There is a bit of discoloration at the tips as well as some of the tubing before the cats.

    After you explained the possible problems with the heat and condition of the cats, and I just step back and remove the emotion from my thinking, I believe you're right. Better to check them and ensure they are OK vice hoping for the best and perhaps losing the entire car to a fire. The old "ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Since the EHAs will take several weeks, I can check and repair / replace the cats (if necessary) while I'm waiting.

    Thanks for pointing out some of the serious problems that could arise from not checking the cats.
     
  13. tr-zeke

    tr-zeke Rookie

    Sep 5, 2016
    8
    Pacific Grove, CA
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    Bill
    Sorry about the delay in the update. The parts did not come in until mid-September. The new parts were installed.My mechanic found a mis-fire in one of the cylinders and replace all the spark plug connects with the newer version. Things run great at idle, but once at revs above idle, the mixture goes full rich. He believes the new parts weren't calibrated correctly so will be taking them off and testing them. So although there is an update, I'm not sure there was much to add. Once we track down this issue I will provide another update.
     
  14. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Jul 25, 2008
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    @ Shortly after this happened, I was looking around the car and noticed the black part of the bumper above the driver side exhaust was damaged - as if it got too hot. @

    I had that too once ... flames of half a meter came out of one exhast ! Burnt the bumper ...

    It was some electrical fault (in my ignition key, to shut down one bank) ... **** happens ...
     

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