Please help identify source of oil&grease radiation | FerrariChat

Please help identify source of oil&grease radiation

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by braq, Jun 28, 2015.

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  1. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    #1 braq, Jun 28, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  2. Cadillacbart

    Cadillacbart Formula Junior

    Nov 26, 2013
    436
    Denver, CO
    Full Name:
    John
    Looks like you have a split in that CV boot. Pull on the folds and I'll bet you find it.
     
  3. mulo rampante

    mulo rampante Formula Junior

    May 31, 2011
    997
    Terra Incognita
    Full Name:
    Charles
    Yes, absolutely. They will also frequently fail where clamped (on any car). There's plenty of good repair advice on here.
     
  4. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    Aha, thank you. Will research, probably order parts and then in a while hopefully be able to update on success,

    cheers

    braq
     
  5. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    yep mine did same thing

    Porsche turbo boots about $10each on Pelican parts I have a post on this

    http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/441719-cv-boot-88-3-2-a.html

    MY ADVICE
    dont buy the claps instead repack your joints with boot on find your local axle shop and bring them to them as they have the clamp and correct equipment to tighten that clamp for extra $40
     
  6. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    Look for the split first. There is a 1 in 100 chance it's from the last time it broke. Not likely but we can hope :)
     
  7. Rapalyea

    Rapalyea Formula 3

    Jun 18, 2013
    1,511
    Georgia Mountains US
    Full Name:
    David Rapalyea alias
    Looks like old crud to me. I see nothing suspicious like cracking on the boot. And I should know since all four of mine are cracked. None of them has left crud like THAT though. I decided to buy four new CV joints pre-lubed, pre-booted etc. just for the heck of it. In fact I continue to drive the car as they are not making any noise.

    That is stange crud though. Could it be ancient residue from a very slow oil seep of some sort. What is directly above? Even so, this is not the sort of thing that I would lose much sleep over.
     
  8. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    Dave

    It doesnt have to have an evident crack to have a split, if you move it at the clamp line it will show mystery split

    there is a clearly defined spin pattern eminating around the cv boot area

    maybe yours doesnt look this way cause you got no grease in your cv

    it doesnt necessarilly make noise before burning the cv bearings and galling them
     
  9. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    Bad form to replace without cleaning... its on the driver side so no burning smell from the exhaust but still to leave that grease on .....
     
  10. Rapalyea

    Rapalyea Formula 3

    Jun 18, 2013
    1,511
    Georgia Mountains US
    Full Name:
    David Rapalyea alias
    Both outboard CVJ boots are entirely broken open and the inboard ones are cracked through. This all happened in the last 4,000 miles and was discovered while looking for my oil cooler leak. The cooler leak is dripping right onto one bad boot so likely has continuous lube ;). I have all four new ones on hand awaiting my local wrench. So I just motor on until I hear a noise. Which seems oddly reluctant to make itself know.
     
  11. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    Hello all,
    good advice here. I will try later today to verify the split in the rubber boot, pretty sure it is not "from last time".

    At this time I would like to get rid of that grease radiation, so what would be the minimal steps for that (parts would be one 901-332-293-12-M60 plus the matching "Oetiker" clamp, any part# or advice on these?)?
    I understand it would be better to have a workshop set the clamp, however there are not too many good places in my vicinity (it's a long drive to one with a lift that goes low enough to have the car inspected for safety, guess it is more trucks than sportscars around here ;-) so I may have to buy the Oetiker clamp tool.

    Cheers

    braq
     
  12. FCnew

    FCnew Formula Junior

    May 5, 2015
    687
    Hong Kong / Canada
    Full Name:
    Jonathan
    .

    Have you tried wiping the grease off first, then take the car out for a drive to see if any new grease has appeared? That would tell you if that's old grease or not.
     
  13. Rapalyea

    Rapalyea Formula 3

    Jun 18, 2013
    1,511
    Georgia Mountains US
    Full Name:
    David Rapalyea alias
    This is a good suggestion for two reasons. First, it can establish if this is a an ongoing problem. Second, if the boots ARE throwing out grease there is the question if they need to be re-greased! I rather doubt it, but there is a substantial amount of crud. However, I do not believe I would go through all the trouble of dissasembly just for that.

    Two of my boots have been entirely separated for perhaps 4,000 miles and there is no hint of noise. My off-road buddies seem rather convinced these joints would need to be fully immersed in muddy slime to ruin them. And these CV joints are not even used to steer the car. They just do not get a lot of strain on them.
     
  14. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    the grease has already been spun out similar to Raps situation

    the special clamp tool may help but Ive talked to a few mechanics and they recommend an axle specialist


    Dave when and if it goes it typically due to unequal forces ....say cornering at top speed but hey if you want a squirley ass end in a curve at speed keep tempting fate I personally dont want to see you in a ditch or worse
     
  15. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    #15 braq, Jun 29, 2015
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2015
    So I slid my hand along the boot, turns out close to the seat (of the clamp) a good 1/3 is ripped. Explains the spray...also found it is actually a regular hose clamp (with the 8mm head), the smaller side towards the wheel is a pressed clamp.

    Please get me on the right track here, disconnect wheel from axle (after soaking hexes as in video), get new rubber boot and clamps on, reassemble, done?

    Cheers

    Braq

    PS: good idea with cleaning and spinning, but to me it looks obvious now ;-)
     
  16. Bell Bloke

    Bell Bloke Formula 3

    Dec 6, 2012
    1,839
    UK
  17. PV Dirk

    PV Dirk F1 Veteran

    Jul 26, 2009
    5,401
    Ahwatukee, AZ
    I had spalling on 2 of the 4 and none of them got grit in them and they didn't go completely dry of grease. I put less than 100 miles on mine after I had one boot split fully. Others had surface cracks. To this day I don't understand why there was spalling in them. Maybe from sometime in the past? The grease was more runny than expected. It could have been oil from the differential had gotten in with my car.
     
  18. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    Those bolts sure are the hardest to get out, I have removed all towards the wheel and three on the transaxle side. I am probably doing it in the worst thinkable way. Having no lift, the cars sits on the jack (rear driver's side) and I would love to be able to turn the transaxle so the three lower bolts would be accessible from the engine compartment (for some reason I decided to loosen them from above and yeah it worked somehow ;-) but do not dare to loose handbrake and disengage gears...hm...also thinking about reassembling already, how to get lower nuts on the transaxle in place...gotta take a break here and rethink,

    cheers

    braq
     
  19. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    OMG you are a glutton for punishment

    its a lot easier to have the bolts on the bottom side

    suggest borrow a jack from another vehicle and put your tires under the car for safety if you have no jackstands!
     
  20. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    #20 braq, Jul 3, 2015
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Took the plunge and moved the axle for the lower bolts to come up (and here is why, the "enforcer" extension for my ratchet can be longer going in from the engine compartment).
    So here it is, can't really say that the hose clamp was essential for the boot failure but can speculate that the "loose" end indeed was in the area of puncture and who knows what it looks like at full rotational speed.
    Anyway, here is another one:
    the CV joints themselves appear to be 90ish from Pelican
    1979 Porsche 930 Turbo Coupe - Axles, Bearings & Differential - Page 1
    , whereas there are multiple on ebay, 40ish
    Meyle Brand Rear CV Joint for Porsche 911 Turbo Only 930 New | eBay
    Am I missing something here, or is it just going to be the same anyway?

    What do you guys think, does it make sense to tighten these bolt that hard (54ish Nm if memory serves me right here)?

    I am starting to enjoy this venture,

    cheers

    braq
    Image Unavailable, Please Login
     
  21. dfranzen

    dfranzen Formula 3
    Owner

    Aug 31, 2013
    1,577
    Ponte Vedra Beach , FL
    Full Name:
    Don Franzen
    I reused my old bolts just make sure that they are not stripped or pita next time

    I inspected my old joint bearings and found no scratches so cleaned them up and reused they only had about 4oK miles

    as you can see the previous owner replaced the clamp that can be tightened conventionally

    you can reuse those too
     
  22. braq

    braq Karting

    Mar 29, 2010
    226
    Hill Island
    Full Name:
    Paul XXXcX
    the old one has 24 and 60 mm diameter

    the part that came
    20 and 52 mm.

    I ordered 901-332-293-12-M60, the package reads 901-332-293-12/60 (which is on their website referenced as fitting the 75-84 911 turbo.
    I am wondering what to do...I can probably squeeze the 20 to 24 but the 52 to 60 mm feels like I am about to brake it or soon after it will disintegrate,

    cheers

    braq
     
  23. paulchua

    paulchua Cat Herder
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Jul 1, 2013
    16,096
    Menlo Park, CA
    Full Name:
    Paul Chua
    Braq, keep up the good work...this is actually part of the fun of ownership. You get to 'really' know these cars.

    AND

    once you fix something yourself - the sense of accomplishment on a job well done is priceless....
     

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