Hello, 1988 Mondial cabriolet. Working toward replacing my shift shaft seals the weekend. I am being stalled by the seemingly simple task of removing the dipstick tube so I can pull the extension out and remove the oil pan. I see in many threads that I am not the only one that has had trouble, but I have not seen a solution to my issue ( except one, which was to cut the tube). My specific issue : once I get the 27 mm wrench on the collar of the tube and turn, the whole damn union it is screwed onto turns in the block. I see no way to counter hold the union. Hoping someone here that has BTDT can offer a solution. Pic below ( borrowed from another thread, thank you!) Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you cant get a crow's foot or other wrench on the nut, perhaps you might be able to wedge a flat blade screwdriver between the base nut and the raised edge of it's recess in the block, in order to hold it stationary while loosening the hold down nut. At the right or left side flats, as viewed in photo.
Thanks for this suggestion. Very helpful to have another set of eyes on this. I'll be trying this later today and will report back.
To give yourself a better chance of breaking the nut to the union you need to hit the flats on the tube nut. Not that, that helps u hold the union- have you got an open ended spanner that you can cut down- cut some off the sides with an angle grinder and then bend it a little using an oxy acet torch. That should get you some purchase as it does not look like you have enough side room for a standard open ender. I am told more damage is done trying to refit this, by crossing the threads.
It finally came loose. I got out my set of shorts service wrenches . These were thin enough that I was able to get the 24mm one to fit on the union fitting and hold itself against the block. Still took about 20 minutes too wrench the 27 mm tube nut off. That was on there so tight- way tighter, IMHO than ever necessary to keep it from leaking. The person who inherits this car from me will not have to suffer the same fate. Thanks all for your help! Next step- removing the shift shaft.
Question- do I really have to remove the center console and disconnect the silent block connection at the shifter to make room to remove the last portion of the shift shaft that enters the block? Instead, could I disconnect the shaft at the tie rod that you adjust the shaft with( part number 10 in the chart below)? Image Unavailable, Please Login
I did, to clean out the gook at the bottom of the shifter, and re-grease. It's part of the "shifting system" so it makes sense to do it all. Not a lot of work either.
I didn't remove the whole console, just the top covers. I did have the seats out once but it was probably for something else.
Did you pull the oil pan yet? If not, be careful about the shifter detent balls, springs and spacers. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/mondial/520298-issue-when-shifting-1st.html Great thread here: http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/308-328-sponsored-yellow-compass-group/282800-robzworkz-2-shifter-shift-shaft-improvement.html Image Unavailable, Please Login
I did pull both pans. Are you referring to the three balls and springs on the edge of the gearbox pan? If so, yes, I was forewarned and got those as the pan came loose. Any other tips?
Yes, from another thread; "Shift Detent Tool that helps significantly when adjusting the linkage. The tool holds the balls, spacers and springs in place while the pan is off, thus centering the forks." I can loan you mine if you're not in a hurry. Can send it out tomorrow, just PM me your address. Post # 11
Wade- received the tool today. Thank you! Hoping to get the shifter adjusted and close everything up tomorriow. Interesting, when I pulled the old shift seals today they were not solid. They were a channel shaped seal, and very brittle. The one separating the two oil cases was so hard it broke into several pieces when I removed it with a pick. Image Unavailable, Please Login
Okay, adjusting the linkage. I am centered in the shift gate now, had to adjust for fore aft a bit after installing Verells seals and silent block replacements. I can select 1-r gate with ease. I can select 2-3 gate with ease. I have to apply fairly good force to get into 4 and especially 5. The pan is still off. When I look at the shift fork, it clears the shift tongues that are not being selected very well. I don't see that as the problem. Should I be able to select all gears easily at this point with the wheels on the ground ( I have a lift) and a dry gear case, or is the balking 4-5 "normal" until there's lube and moving wheels involved?
Mine sat empty for weeks before I was able to start puting everything back together, but I don't recall any difficulties. Maybe I should say, I didn't see or sense any problems.
Following up to close this out. All done! Shifts very well, and the trans is noticeably quieter. I suspect the motor and gear oil were mixing pretty well as the seals I removed were so shrunken and brittle. Public thanks to Wade for loaning me the shift detent tool. Love this community! For the record, I ordered Verrel's quad seals for oil control, and replaced the silent blocks in the shift shaft with Verrel's Delrin bushings. I chose Mobil1 75W-90 for the gearbox. Looking forward to a "drip free" Ferrari for a little while. John
