Countach Technical Thread & Questions

Discussion in 'LamborghiniChat.com' started by jollygood, Mar 18, 2013.

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  1. Ellagirl

    Ellagirl Formula 3

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    Yes, thanks. Thats it. I did install it once in the car ,easy plugg in and bracket fits good but the car did not shut off when you turned off the key,i later recieved diode from my dealer wich is supose to avoid the alternator to backfeed to the ignition box after the key is turned off,i did not find a plug anywhere to fit the connections the diode kit came with.car sounded good but kinda hard to pull the coil wire every time you shut the car down, do you know if the system is any better than the original? And also where do you conn the diod the easyest to make the car turn off on the key?or is there perhaps another reason the car does not shut off. Very thankful for all help,would like to install the new box if it is in fact any better,my existing ignition works fine so far,but stil would like to try the new one.
     
  2. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    #202 Jalpa_Mike, Oct 8, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Nils,

    Lamborghini addressed this "run on" problem in Technical bulletin #004 back on June 24th 1988.

    Here is a copy of the 2 pages:

    Mike
    runon1.jpg
    runon2.jpg
     
  3. Ellagirl

    Ellagirl Formula 3

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    Thanks !i did recieve the same two pages from Lamborghine with my diod kit, have not being able to find the connectors in the wire harness anywhere, there is only the big red pos cble coming inn from the alternator to a common terminal,from there it feeds in to a relay box in the left side rear compartmnt in the taillight section. The box contains fan and ignition nd start relay, perhaps Lamborgini expects you to find suitable place for the diod where there is acces to the right wire,but there is no plug anywhere to be found that connects to the plug /diod kit. Did the Canadien guy run in to the same problem?
     
  4. Chadbourn Bolles

    Chadbourn Bolles Formula Junior
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    Thanks !i did recieve the same two pages from Lamborghine with my diod kit, have not being able to find the connectors in the wire harness anywhere, there is only the big red pos cble coming inn from the alternator to a common terminal,from there it feeds in to a relay box in the left side rear compartmnt in the taillight section. The box contains fan and ignition nd start relay, perhaps Lamborgini expects you to find suitable place for the diod where there is acces to the right wire,but there is no plug anywhere to be found that connects to the plug /diod kit. Did the Canadien guy run in to the same problem?

    Next time you get ready to run car, try this. Disconnect the switch wire at the Alt. Start car, then shut it off. If it shuts off, then place the Diode in that wire.
    Chadbourn Bolles
    803 532 6257
    email: Lamborghinionly@yahoo.com
     
  5. Peter K.

    Peter K. F1 Rookie
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    #205 Peter K., Oct 9, 2014
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    I don't remember posting this picture of my car. Where did you see it?
    29.jpg
     
  6. amc

    amc Karting

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    old school
    Countach thread... or some restoration thread in this forum.
     
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  8. johnghini

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    #207 johnghini, Oct 21, 2014
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    Can anyone confirm whether the areas I highlighted have the black sealant in their seams? In short, I cannot tell whether the horizontal "rocker panel" seam that runs into both the front and rear flares should have the sealant. Seems some cars have it the complete distance, while others have it on the flares only...or none at all. I am finishing up the car and need to know! Car I am referring to is a US QV (1986).
    Thx!
    Countach-sealant.jpg
     
  9. godabitibi

    godabitibi F1 Veteran
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    #208 godabitibi, Oct 21, 2014
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    From a car I believe was on original paint. 87 US.
    DSC03168 - Copie.jpg
     
  10. tbakowsky

    tbakowsky F1 World Champ
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    I know that car..
     
  11. jgoodman

    jgoodman F1 Rookie
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    Anyone have the part number for the windshield washer fluid reservior? Any part cross links for other cars? Just noticed that mine won't hold fluid. Thanks in advance.
     
  12. gurslo

    gurslo Formula 3

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    Would a "3D printer" work it's magic for a project of this sort?
     
  13. EarlyCat

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    Get the part number actually on it & Google it. It is probably a Fiat or Alfa part.
     
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  15. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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  16. jgoodman

    jgoodman F1 Rookie
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  17. SupercarGuru

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    I cannot find the owners manual on my 1987 car... And cannot find where to check the oil?? I know this sounds absurd... Am I blind??
     
  18. Redlambo

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    #216 Redlambo, Oct 23, 2014
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    This should help.
    Countach engine dipstick.jpg
     
  19. 2NA

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    Even when you know where to look, sometimes it's a mystery.
     
  20. Chadbourn Bolles

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    #218 Chadbourn Bolles, Oct 27, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
     
  21. Peter K.

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  22. raymondQV

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    #1121228, of my friend, Vortex charger
     
  23. EarlyCat

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    Amazing work!
     
  24. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    #222 Jalpa_Mike, Nov 15, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Rebuilding the water pump on my 5000QV.

    Here are all the old components laid out. Just ordered new seal, bearing, hoses, snap clips, etc. from GT Car Parts.

    Also having the water pump cover re-welded. At some point in the cars history, someone must have broken the cover and welded it (note all the red silicone gasket sealer on it). So, I took it to a proper machine shop (the same folks who have done Jon Shirley's Pebble Beach winning Ferrari 375MM). They'll weld a new flange on it and machine it properly.

    Mike
    image.jpg
     
  25. islandguy

    islandguy Formula 3
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    Looks good Mike. Was it giving you trouble or just on your list of things to do?
     
  26. Jalpa_Mike

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    Yes, it started leaking.

    Mike
     
  27. EarlyCat

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    I will be rebuilding mine soon. I've already rebuilt mine twice over 8 plus years. One catch is the seal must be pushed on, evenly, or it will leak immediately. The perfect "tool" to press the seal, is the plastic top of a bug bomb like you would get at Home Depot. Did you get the packing slip with the parts? A Ferrari seal.
     
  28. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    Joey:

    I'm still waiting for the parts to arrive from Bill @ GT Car Parts.

    The water pump cover won't be ready for 2 weeks, so I'm not in a hurry for the parts... Yet
    :)

    Mike
     
  29. jollygood

    jollygood Formula 3
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    Would you have a parts list for rebuilding water pump, for future reference?
     
  30. Countachqv

    Countachqv Formula 3
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    a stupid question: what are the torque specs of the countach oil plug and differential plug?
    i forgot and cant find it in my docs
     
  31. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    #229 Jalpa_Mike, Nov 22, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I'll put together a list of all the parts that I am replacing. They are starting to trickle in.

    First is the new water pump drive shaft. Here is a shot of the old and new side-by-side. Not hard to see why mine was leaking! The seal had failed exposing the spring inside the rubber seal and allowing it to rub for who knows how long against the shaft. It was also heavily pitted, rusted, etc.

    Mike
    image.jpg
     
  32. Chadbourn Bolles

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    First is the new water pump drive shaft. Here is a shot of the old and new side-by-side. Not hard to see why mine was leaking! The seal had failed exposing the spring inside the rubber seal and allowing it to rub for who knows how long against the shaft. It was also heavily pitted, rusted, etc.

    Mike

    The looks of the shaft have nothing to do with the seal leaking. There are 2 places the pump will leak, 1 the seal fails, and 2 the bore where the seal fits, is not as smooth as glass, allowing leakage past the OD of the seal.
    You just paid several hundred dollars to have a pretty water pump shaft.
    Chadbourn Bolles
    803 532 6257
    email: Lamborghinionly@yahoo.com
     
  33. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    Chad:

    The seal was ripped wide open. The spring inside the seal had been dragging on the shaft and caused a groove to form. Water was on it for quite some time as the area where the seal rides is rusted and pitted. It was a cheap $200 to spend for piece of mind.

    Mile
     
  34. EarlyCat

    EarlyCat Moderator
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    I'm curious Chad, or anyone, if you put anything on the seal (for coating, protecting, or lubricating) when you put it together?
     
  35. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    Joey:

    I've heard a couple of folks recommend the same lubricant that is used for o-rings and pump seals on submerged pond pumps.

    I think Chad has recommended the same. Maybe he'll jump and let us know if that is true.

    Like Chad has stated, the big area of concern is the pump body where the seal is at. If not perfect, water will just creep right past it.

    Mike
     
  36. 2NA

    2NA F1 World Champ
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    The new shaft looks good and there's nothing wrong with using new parts but I agree with Chad. The seal normally never touches the shaft. It seals between the housing and the back surface of the impeller. As long as the shaft is straight and the impeller spins true, it shouldn't leak, until the crummy seal fails again. Frequently the housing gets corroded where the seal fits. I've filled the pits with JB Weld with some success. The most important part of Lamborghini water pump maintenance is making sure the weep hole stays open so you know when it's time to do it all again.
     
  37. Jalpa_Mike

    Jalpa_Mike F1 Rookie
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    #235 Jalpa_Mike, Nov 23, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Since I can't post multiple images from my iPad, here are 2 images of my failed seal.

    It was very dry and brittle. Note in the one photo, how the seal actually looks twisted where it is suppose to seal against the pump.

    The other photo shows how the seal was broken into 2 pieces. The spring you see on the inside of the seal was dragging on the pump shaft and put a groove in it.

    Mike
    image.jpg
     
  38. Jalpa_Mike

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    #236 Jalpa_Mike, Nov 23, 2014
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    2nd photo

    Mike
    image.jpg
     
  39. raymondQV

    raymondQV F1 Rookie

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  40. EarlyCat

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    #238 EarlyCat, Nov 28, 2014
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    This came with mine.
    img001.jpg
     
  41. Countachqv

    Countachqv Formula 3
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    I had my oil analyzed and got the results. For motor, differential and transaxle. It seems that all passed with flying colors as I was a bit worried at passed 30k kms and never any serious rebuild on anything.
    Doing this it seems I busted the myth of changing the oil too frequently even if you dont put a lots of miles.
    but more important is the transaxle oil and differential oil.They were in there for quite some time and dont exude any component wear at all. that was a very happy report. That said blackstone does not have a lot of comps for the countach and they base their opinion and summary on other similar cars.
    Has anyone done this and if so we could exchange info here or in private if that is better suited for someone.
    I'd like to trade reports and numbers so we can do real countach comps.
     
  42. Jalpa_Mike

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    #240 Jalpa_Mike, Dec 4, 2014
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    First piece completed on the water pump.

    Previous owner had tried to fix the cracked water pump cover with silicone, etc.

    This is what it looks like when a professional does it!

    Beautiful craftsmanship!

    Mike
    image.jpg
    WP Cover After.jpg
     
  43. raymondQV

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  44. Jalpa_Mike

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  45. islandguy

    islandguy Formula 3
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    I had a onetime occurrence yesterday that I can’t get to repeat:

    A loud high pitch buzz/hum coming from the left side front near the AC fan and horn. Sounded like the door open buzzer but 10 times louder.

    Any Thoughts?
     
  46. jollygood

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    Were you driving the car? Speedometer cable!
     
  47. Jalpa_Mike

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    Also, check either of the 2 little fans on the condensor. When the bearings go, they sound awful!!! I had to replace one of mine!

    However, fear not. It's the same thing and it's used on a FIAT X1/9. They are pretty cheap, however kind of a bugger to get out!

    Mike
     
  48. islandguy

    islandguy Formula 3
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    Car was parked, idling. Turned the ignition off then back on and surprisingly the noise was gone.
    I'll check those out. Thanks for correcting me. When I said AC fan I should have said condenser fan(s). Doesn't sound like a fun job.
     
  49. Jalpa_Mike

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    #247 Jalpa_Mike, Dec 8, 2014
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2014
  50. Ellagirl

    Ellagirl Formula 3

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    Any experience out there regarding removing the smog/air pump an a 88 fi qv,other than a lot less clutter in the engine compartement? Any negatives i need to know? Or should it be left the way it is. Any info is greatly appreciated.thanks
     
  51. vaholtorf

    vaholtorf Formula 3
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    I recommend removing it. It doesn't even operate except at idle, to clean up the exhaust for the then-mandated emissions limits at idle. It is easy to remove, and it is also easy to reinstall at a later date if desired. It's removal does clean the engine bay up, and sames a little weight too!
     
  52. blown daytona

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    I would remove it also. Cleans up the engine bay nicely. Just keep the entire set up for the next person. You will just have to buy 12 caps to cap the disconnected tubes from the exaust manifolds. If you need to know what size they are, let me know. I can dig thru my notes.
     

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