Hello everybody ! Since a few weeks my left windows was not goping up and down smoothly so last sunday, I had a closer look and found out that the cable was cut. I need your help ! I am looking for : 1. the cable path schema 2. advices to replace the cable. For example, do I have to dismount the motor or can I avoid to do that ? Type and length of the cable ... Thank you very much Jean
Don't know how much help this would be but I think they are similar. I'm not afraid to do most things on cars but in all reality I'd pay someone to do this. Power Window Service, Ferrari 308
Here is another good one. Once again most likely similar to this series. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/technical-q-sponsored-algar-ferrari/44288-lubricating-tr-window-motors.html
I was told that the cable and the mechanism are one unit (integrated, sold together) and that it's a fairly complex job. I was quoted $820 this week to replace and re-intall (w/ the parts) the passenger window cable/power mechanism on my '84. No context on this being true or market fair pricing.
Thx for the info and links. The schema of the 412 is the same than the TR. The 308 one is slightly different. I will see if it's integrated as I am going to umount the mechanism from the door. If it's like the TR one, it seems that the cable can be changed. i'll take pictures while doint it and post them here.
Hi, I changed mine, here is the diagram of the cable path. We must remove the motor and locate well before the direction of the cables in the coil. Flexible cables are cables for boat, the other cables are difficult to implement. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/365-gt4-2-2-400-412/325073-repair-electric-window-400-auto.html If you need further information do not hesitate. Theodore
The best way to get cable path right is to remove the opposite door panel off and do a mirror image. I believe the parts should be available in 3 pieces: motor, coupling (mine was broken when purchased and dealer had the part!) and the winder with cable. Cable is not real special and can probably be source separately and check how it is secured on the real and get the length correct too much can be a problem. It is not easy to get unit out; I think thru the speaker hole or at least remove the speaker to get a second hand on it. Be sure to put tape or a tyrap around the cable while installing the assembly, the cable likes popping off the end. It is doable in any case but be patient and have a helper with small hands. Ken
I recently repaired the cable operated window mechanism on another of my cars - this car had a vertical frame suspended inside the door with two cables that wrapped around a grooved pulley attached to the motor - these cables had crimp on ends that fitted into keyway slots. The motor turned the pulley and one cable wound in and the other wound out, pulling the slider with a pin that went through the glass. The motor pulled the cable in both directions (window up or down) which raised or lowered the glass. Not an immediately obvious fix but fairly simple once you got your head around how it came out and worked. Re the 400:- Looking at the diagram i can see the cable path but I'm unclear how the mechanism works to raise/lower the glass - is there a similar pulley and slide mechanism somewhere in the path to move the window up and down or does the cable shorten or lengthen somehow ? I ask because I found a great supplier for cable and repair parts and may be able to come up with a solution if the parts needed were made clear. I've never had this problem with either the 400 or 365 as yet but it'll happen one day so it'd be nice to work out a fix before the event !
Rusty Tractor I'll try this again. Motor, gear reducer and a coupling likely the same as other ar you describe. Specifically, the pulley is grooved and one side of cable is in tension and the other is being "given out". For lifting the one in tension lifts the window at two points on the 400i. For lowering it "Pulls" window down, which will always be faster tanks to Gc! The diagram is good but one pulley may not be on the window but rather fixed to the door. The two on the bottom are attached to the window and window is drilled with a frame on lower edge, going by memory. Ken
The pulley marked by the blue arrow is not attached to the door. It is underpinned by a return spring that maintains flexibility to the entire cable. Whatever the pulleys are not the be moved. The cable path is identical to that of the opposite door. The difficulty lies in the length of cable which must be exactly the same length as the original cable. I recovered the old cable was broken to measure. As regards the direction of insertion into the motor I removed the motor of the door opposite to verify. Image Unavailable, Please Login
I have dismounted everything but I had a 2mm cable and the one needed is 1.5mm. Not sure this wouldn't have worked but I prefer to use the same one rather to have to redo everything. @theobordeaux : Do you have the precise length of the cable ? Jean
Gordon, I know I should've noted somewhere. But I did not more. I was too anxious to repair! But by following the process described in the file of Kent, we see that the cable length is defined alone since when the motor puts in place the cable is normally tight. http://www.birdman308.com/service/windowservice/index.html Theodore
Just updating this thread with my own findings : The length of the cable is approx 3m, In order to find the proper final length I had to trim 4cm. As far as the spool is concerned, the proper way to wound it is to leave one track "free" (so one has to wound as many loop as possible, and then remove one full loop). In order to keep the cable on the spool I initially used a rubber band, but in the end masking tape was the way to go. A few pics : https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-365-gt4-2-2-400-412-today.488990/page-10#post-149871480
Getting back to the subject: the cable snapped again, so back to the drawing board. 1) As the door ages the metal panel start to flex and the spool is not any-more parallel, which makes a mess when the spool winds-up the cable. 2) the cable requires lots of tension. I've inserted a 4mm spacer on the rear-most mounting stud which made the alignment much better. This time I've accurately measured the cable. Please discard my previous comments that quoted 3m. 3.95m seems to be the exact size (that's excluding the cable stops).This being said I did trim 1.3cm more in order to compensate for the wear of the pulleys axles. I believe I could have removed a full 2cm, but it's a very subtle adjustment and 1cm makes a huge difference in terms of tension (all in all final length is 3.937m on my car) . As a side benefit: with the added tension and proper alignment, the window is now much faster. When the window goes down, the cable tension is suddenly reversed which could be an issue if the cables takes a wrong path on the spool. One can see the pulley tensioner jumping on the opposite direction. In the future I will probably consider a load resistor combined with a diode to tame the downward motion. For the record, this thread may also help : https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/how-to-repair-a-window-motor-in-a-400-series-car.593917/#post-146442191
Raemin When I replaced my cable, I added a "booster" spring to the tensioner to keep the cable in its pulley groves. Ken
