You have to wiggle those tubes every once in a while to keep them working. Had some time on my hands to day and did a search. Found this in the Boxer/TR/M section "Hi, I was wondering what you can use for electrical connector corrosion? I have a connection I will clean off and everything is fine, but give it about 6 or 7 months and it seems like the corrosion comes back enough prevent a good electrical connection. I changed out the connector to a gold connector and also put die electric grease on it too. Still having this small minor issue. Any idea how to fix? I almost want to solder the connection. "
You are funny! Did you tell him that now his whole electrical system was going to die from electrolytic corrosion, electrochemical migration, and fretting corrosion and that he better sell his car now before it became a "salvage?"
I didn't post anything FBB, but apparently it is as he reports that the corrosion still keep coming back. Just noting that there is evidence right here on FChat that substituting gold connectors doesn't always solve corrosion problems. I suspect in this case it was a gold connector on a tin contact, but the poster didn't say anything more than what I quoted. Here is the link to the entire thread http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/boxers-tr-m/403178-electrical-corrosion-question.html
But the real question is does your old fart Mac tuber have gold RCA connections like my slightly newer fart Audio Research?
It's all gold bby even the tube sockets But I will solder everything direct and eliminate the plugs all together LOL
Try Again! Is that the best you got to discredit the SRI kit? Poster is owner of qualitywires.com. Something about quality wiring on cars? Presumably he would know about how to do quality wiring. Would he use gold? Did he do an SRI kit? What was his problem in what sensor? Others tried to help him. He made one post with one complaint about one connection then made no follow-up. Is this the only connection with gold? Maybe if one connector is a repeat problem there could be a multitude of potential problems. Respectfully, pulling a post out of context does not impress anyone.
Sounds good to me. Soon as I dont need to do an OBD check for DMV going to drop motronic and go stand alone unit. If I still have this old girl
Oh, a nail dragger. You might be interested in my web site: Music and Design It's my hobby since I retired.
Gang, I've hit another impasse...Can't get the ECU harness removed from the computer. How does one get the harness out of the back hinge? See where my finger is pointing. The angle makes it hard to see underneath the computer. Can't tell if there is a screw I am supposed to remove. I don't want to force it. Will set this aside and move on with other sensors until I get a response from you guys. ketel Image Unavailable, Please Login
Take the motronic off the firewall and the plug comes off much easier especially for a newbie. Besides you may want to clean off and inspect the ECU pins anyway as good practice. Use the small wire brush in the kit. The plug can be removed without removing the ecu but more fidgeting is involved.
Thanks, FBB. One other thing: is there any preferred way to get at the injector sensors? Access is tight back there and not a lot of harness to work with. I was wondering if there were some steps (not mentioned in the instructions) that would make the replacement of those connectors a bit easier. ketel
I don't think so, you just have to put your head down and muddle through. The access difficulty you have encountered is why some prefer to do this engine out. To me it does not matter the job is tedious no matter what but hopefully you will have the great results the rest of us have had.
Hey johnk, Still plugging along. Given my work commitments, this is strictly a 'weekends only' project. I also do not currently have an ideal workshop environment so I have to "chunk" my work into segments that I can be relatively confident I can commence and conclude in the same day. I can't leave tools scattered around and a 355 with its guts spilling onto the floor between days I can work on it. Perhaps one day I will have that ideal man-cave garage set-up, but not at the moment. As I mentioned in an earlier post, last weekend I tackled four sensors and 3 of the 8 fuel injector sensors. What's left now is the ECU, the 12-prong rectangular plug, the crank sensor (are whatever that one is that's underneath the vehicle toward the back of the engine on the drivers side) and the remaining 5 fuel injector sensors. ketel
Haha. True. The only people happier than I will be when this project is done is my local law enforcement officer (CHP) because I need to get the Spider street legal asap. ketel
Tim, Please feel free to do whatever you would like on your car, it's your car. For me and many many others out there the troubleshooting you're talking about worked for only very short periods of time. Listen to me again, my car is THE POSTER CHILD of crap that was either never done incorrectly from the facory or crap that was never dealt with AT THE SOURCE from the so called Ferrari dealer experts and other high end (read expensive) shops. It was all tried on my car: new tin connectors, different clamps, new wiring, etc. but the crap still re-appeared. It took Dave years to develop what we have now and it is still evolving, and it works, period. Dave is not an idiot. He tried many different combinations (some good some better still) but he settled on what we have now for a reason and it is the best yet. Please write when you have put on about 15,000 mi. on your car in 3 years of absolutely trouble trouble free miles. Hell most of you guys don't put 15,000 mi. on your cars in 10 years. Then we'll talk.
I have been on this board for a very long time and I remember all the hard work Dave put into this. He got a lot of owners on board to do real live testing of each phase and resisted making the kit available even though there were plenty of owners out there that wanted it. He knew how easy it would be for all this hard work to be negated if one owner was not completely satisfied after installing the kit. So to say that Dave did his homework on this before releasing it would be a huge understatement.
Guys, like it or not, supporter of the kit or not, the crux of the matter is summarized in this statement by Tim Tin on tin, gold on gold, gold on tin, sh$% on a shingle only comes into play in the longer term and will depend strongly on the environment where the car is used. The kit also won't fix a bad O2 sensor, a bad TPS, a bad injector, a bad CTS, a bad RPM sensor, a bad cat ECU, a bad MAP.... And please don't dismiss "longer term" by bringing up examples of cars that have had the kit installed for 5 years. We are talking about cars that are 14 to 18 years old, many of which are running the original connectors and have not had problems to date. Certainly any car 14 to 18 years down the line may exhibit problems of one kind or another, particularly cars which sit unused for significant periods of time.
Sorry that your CEL took so long to fix. Lets face it, it's tough to do with all of the low clamping force connectors that Ferrari used , coupled to a real world problem that could be anywhere (CTS, TPS, o2 sensor, etc)....or just a bad ground. The fact is that you had an undefined problem. You didn't know what was wrong with your car. Next fact, you threw the hail marry and just replaced every connection in your entire system. And, somewhere along the way you fixed your problem. But make no mistake, gold had nothing to do with it. Now you are faced with the problem that gold/tin connections will corrode over time. So the next time you need to fix your car, you will need to repeat what you have already done PLUS replace your ECU. I just don't want to worry about that too. I'm sure someone next will sell you a Gold mega squirt moded ECU with improved software so that your car will not run so lean and burn out your headers. That way you can have the gold/gold connections you always wanted. Don't be such a science hater....buy direct tv.
