430 LUCKY STRIKE: BOUGHT A GEARBOX FOR $50

11th pic, remove the plate on the end of the primary shaft, pic shown removed (compare that to the 10th pic)
12th pic, remove the big nut on the primary shaft.
13th pic, now its time to remove this plate that's sandwiched between the gearbox housing and the rear cover we removed in the beginning of the job. We tried various method including the one showing in this pic. We feared that the plate-to-plate surface would be damaged if we use pry bars etc, but that's what finally worked. phew.... 2 pry bars used, but not pictured
14th pic, now this plate is off. there are 2 bearings in those 2 holes and one of them would easily come off and the other one is still stuck in there.
15th pic, the back of the plate (facing the gear sets inside the gearbox) , the black round thing is the gearbox oil pump
16th pic, now it reveals what's inside. ha
17th pic, On the other side of the gearbox, I see lots of shaves around the magnet area ( the magnet is the oil drain plug viewing from inside). Pay attention to the bronze tube as it is removed in the next pics.
18th pic, now need to work from the other side, there's a bunch of bolts that need to be removed. You need to remove the differential to see this, which we've already done.
19th pic, bolts removed. Also removed is a little oil tube we mentioned earlier. I am guessing it is a oil return tube. but im not sure. The primary shaft's clutch side half has to be removed first. It is a simple spline connection. We used a hammer. I am sure there are better tools/ways to do it, but heck i don't have it. If somebody knows what tool to use to extract the pilot bearing and the shaft it sits on, PLEASE, chime in!
20th pic, primary shaft's clutch end removed ( is there a better , technical word for this shaft?). The pilot bearing is still stuck in there. I wonder how you can remove this bearing while doing a clutch job. I never did it. What tool to extract this bearing if you aren't going to open up the gearbox?

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21st pic , now everything is off, its time to remove the whole gear sets and rods, we don't know how to do it properly, so we become cavemen and become crude.
22nd pic, we also tried to pull from this side
23rd pic, after some pain and suffering, we got them out.
24th pic, and here's an empty case, on the bottom left, u see how the oil dipstick looks from the inside. eyes wide open, people.
25th pic, zooming in a little bit.

The end. I guess the 360 gearbox is pretty much the same.

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Good work. Still interested in the offset dimension shown in your picture, post #15.
Those new pics would suggest it's not that much?

 

I am about to reply to him just now. So how do I measure it? Just a ball park?

 

What a cool thread

 

yea i agree, i been wanting to see how these come apart for quite awhile. I just wish it could have been me who found it for the experience. With that said im wandering about the E DIFF

 

now my questions are,

1nd pic, how to remove the sandwiched plate properly from this point? Pry bar the only way?
2rd pic, how to disconnect this input shaft from the primary gearbox shaft properly without using a hammer skewed on it?
3th pic, how to remove the whole gears assembly properly without having to use a hammer from the clutch side?
4th pic, I see a slice of metal ring on this differential output shaft plate, is this a result of a damage or a part of the assembly? If so, what function does it serve?
5th pic, how to pull out the pilot bearing from this side if I am not opening up the gearbox? what tool to use and where to buy it?






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ah ha, I found a similar transmission that has shift collar on both shafts! its a honda. But I have no idea how the reverse would work on this particular gear sets

here: https://www.j-k-tuning.com/Transmission/BTrans2.php

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Interesting thread pictures are worth a thousand words.!
24000rpm is there any chance you can give drain plug diameter and thread pitch.?
Thanks for sharing!

 

oh yea, that was easy. give me a few days

 

I would take a die grinder and radius that down and call it a day. Mainly, you want to remove any stress risers. Depending on the contact patch for the gears, it shouldn't cause any major problems.

I just tore down and cleaned the gear box on my pickup truck and even after several hundred thousand miles, no damage like that. I would assume that damage is either from grinding the gears (or like a synchro not working correctly) and/or simply a failure in the grain structure of the metal.

Depending on how extensive of a rebuild you are doing here, have you considered having the gears Shot Peened and/or ISF polished (aka Rem finished)?

Ray

 

It looks like you are pretty well versed with transmission stuff. As far as how to remove some of those shafts from the sandwich plate, good luck! That looks like not-a-fun-job haha

It's pretty interesting how the transaxle merges the gearbox and differential all into one there. I'm actually in the middle of rebuilding the 8" rear differential for my pickup truck. I wonder how you adjust the ring/pinion gear backlash on the Ferrari there?

I'm going to share a few YouTube videos that you might enjoy and/or other people might find helpful, insofar as understanding the overall operation of gearboxes in general. These are all videos I've bookmarked while working on my W58 Supra gearbox recently. You might really enjoy some of the videos and information from the "GearBoxVideo" YouTube guy there, as his videos are especially interesting to watch:


Interesting video showing how gears are shifted.


Tear down of a Nascar gearbox


Operation of synchros


Shows an F1 clutch at about 32:00 minutes


Covers gear Shot Peening and also ISF (isotropic super finishing) gear polishing by Rem Chem, etc.

 

the entire differential is shot, and a new differential is more expensive than a used gearbox

so I guess i'll leave the gearbox as is, maybe for future spare gears.

 

What specifically is wrong with the differential?

Ray

 

1. the ATF sealing surface(metal) is damaged. it can no longer hold ATF tight in there. it will leak.
in fact when I opened the differential, it has ATF all over there

2. there are 2 roller bearings inside the differential , they are missing rollers or damaged, as pictured in previous posts.

 

What about welding the housing shut where it's damaged? TIG welding aluminum isn't too difficult usually.

As far as the rollers, isn't that just a radial thrust bearing in there?

Ray

 

Yea, it is a thrust bearing. the inside wall of the thrust bearing that are in contact with the shaft (very short and large diameter) are damaged

this is in charge of the differential lock so I don't think you can weld it. let me give you a pic

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So this is something to do with the LSD or is this the evquilfnt of side gear thrust washers in a normal differential?

You could always bypass the whole setup run a spool in there haha

Ray

 

Yeh just ball park ruler measurement. Basically how much lower is the pinion centreline compared to the rear axle centreline. From your pics it doesn't look to be much?

 

so, i happen to have a new plug

the outer diameter is 22mm and
2 threads=3mm, so each pitch =1.5mm
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Great find for $50! Do you know any history on the transmission, was it just replaced or had it been sitting for awhile? Mostly curious to know at what mileage the Ediff failed?

 

24000 rpm for the update on thread diameter and thread pitch!!

 

wow, i am in hong kong now
finally can see youtube videos. So the nascar gearbox is basically a gearset without synchronizers and kept the H pattern shift?

 

correction: the bearing that misses a lot of roller are actually called needle bearings, those rollers are called needle rollers, as I recently learned by being able to view youtube the first time in months.

 

Glad you were able to check out some of those videos. Pretty cool huh? That Gear Box Video guy on YouTube has a lot of great videos on his channel.

Ray