Finally.. new 1978 308 GTS owner... :-)

Derek, great reply. Can you elaborate on what one should look for with a borescope? I assume one should do this prior to trying to turn the engine at the crankshaft. Are you looking for signs of rust within the cylinders? If the car was running when parked 30 years ago I would think the engine would turn quite easily at the crankshaft, but perhaps one should not attempt to start it up. What are the "red flags" and if you see them how do to proceed?

By the way, I agree completely that all fluids, filters, cam belts & tensioners, fuel lines and coolant lines should be replaced straight away!

 

I would look for signs of corrosion in the bores and squirt a bit of oil in before turning a few times by hand and then the starter with the plugs out to lube the bores while also priming the oil circuit.

 

Thanks Derekw! I have a boroscope, great idea about taking a looksee. My plan would be to squirt a little oil, turn by hand like you said. After TB replacement (Parts on the way from RicambiAmerica), then with the starter. (anyone know where I can get a 308 water pump rebuild kit?). I also want to pull the valve cover gaskets not only to check for lash but also to make sure no valves are sticking down! Hopefully if there are any a little oil and a soft tap with loosen them up. Hoping this is not the case though! After that, flush the fluids, replace the fuel lines. The expansion tank is not completely full, and has some junk in it (rust flakes from above the water line) so I'll pull that straightaway and have it boiled out and redone by a local radiator shop. Might do the radiator too while I'm at it... With the USA Shutting down for a while I might be getting on this sooner than I anticipated! Free B&W for anyone who wants to help!

 

In case you want another option, I had my water pump rebuilt by the Flying Dutchman: http://water-pump-rebuilders.com/contact.html

About the radiator, I was advised if I had it done to stress that the mounting brackets *must* be exact as it's a very precise fit. I opted instead for a new radiator and went with Nick's: http://www.nicksforzaferrari.com/

Have fun!

 

Wow! Waiting for updates on this one! I also have something cooking but like Doogie, I wont share it till its done!

 

Can you give us a hint?

 

Buy a new water pump, they are not expensive.
Don't try to start it. Turn it over by hand after you squirt in there a bunch of oil.
I hope you are taking into account how much you will need to revive.

 

Congratulations! That's a beautiful car and still looks new!

 

Fingers crossed and mum's the word! But just to avoid a expectations build up, its relatively modest but it'll hopefully be the start of the realization of a childhood dream (Horsie Ownership)!

In final, price haggling stage ... Will share as soon as clinched!

 

New water pumps for 308 are poorly built. Outsourced to India or China??? After receiving and returning several new water pumps.....
I took the original water pump from my 78 308 and sent it to Brian Crall (Rifledriver) http://www.hillcountryferrari.com/ to rebuild. He did the mods to use the single seal of the later 308 water pumps. Give him a call and he will tell you how long it would take. He is usually busy, but worth the wait.

 

Hey that’s a great car... and identical to mine. Reminds me of the day I picked mine up. Congratulations


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Congratulations on the 308. I know what it is to long for a 308 since as far back as I can remember and bought mine almost 18 years ago. Still love it and gets me going whenever I see it.

If you plan on keeping the car and are going to give it a real thorough service take my word on it and pull the motor. I've harped on this in other threads but it is first hand knowledge true. I follow the rule of 3. Three or more things to do in the engine bay and pull the motor. In the long run it is less work, allows for a more complete job, and offers access that is otherwise impossible.

For a car that has sat since 1990 you will want to do the following:

- Replace EVERY hose. It is not that expensive and you are really playing with fire (literally) if you do not do this. I repeat EVERY hose.
- Standard service items: Belts, water pump, tensioner pulleys, valve adjustment, etc.
- Remove and re-build the carbs. MUCH easier to do with the engine out
- Replace all fluids and filters
- Check the radiator for blockages and rot
- Remove the fuel tanks and have the insides cleaned. Almost certainly you will find varnish in there
- New tires
- Check CV joints for tightness
- Check brakes to make sure the calipers are not sticking
- Change clutch cable. Sitting as long as it has it may be corroded and can break. Cheap and easy with the motor out
- Change accelerator cable. Same as clutch cable
- Check the distributor especially the advance mechanism to make sure it is not seized.
- Properly inspect down the cylinders before starting. Once the belts are done try a compression and leak down on the engine to see where you are. With the engine out it is a good time to take care of anything.

With this work done you will have a good safe baseline to start driving. Beyond that things like the suspension, detailing the interior and exterior can be side projects to bring the car fully up to snuff. My list is the bare minimum to bring the car up to safety and exposing you to the minimum of risk for a catastrophic failure.

Going to a professional to do this work should not be terribly expensive either. Doing a bunch of jobs at once is much cheaper than doing a little at a time with multiple trips to the mechanic. Having done this work recently to my car I can tell you that the parts bill was less than $2K. Spending a chunk now will save you much more later and will also make ownership much more pleasant. Best of luck.

 

I had no choice as my engine was seized and signs in the bore of coolant. If the bores look ok and the motor turns smoothly, I would change the belts and try to get it running to check for other issues (synchros, cooling system, brakes, suspension...) After running a bit check compression and leak down. That can all inform your decision to pull the engine or not (or get rid of the car

 

So, the rebuild has started! I have the 30K Major service kit from Ricarmbi America, which has most everythign I need so far. Still need to source a Water Pump rebuld/rebuilder. (The one on the car does not turn easily, but rather in 'spurts'?) Everything else is going great! Have the valve covers removed, TB covers removed, A/C disconnected and out of the way (had no pressure so decided to disconnect and remove,. but will re-install and recharge). Need to order complete Water hose set, fuel hose set, vapor recovery hose set, and fuel pump. Next step is to remove plugs, squirt some oil in the cylinders, then manually turn engine a little bit to see if it's OK. Having a great time wrenching on a Ferrari!
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Replace EVERY fuel hose, as mentioned. EVERY SINGLE ONE. Including the cross over connectors between tanks under the car and filler neck. I used SAE J30R9 fuel injection hose for the small lines to and around the carbs. That stuff is ethanol resistant. I got ethanol resistant hose for the larger pieces from someone in CO, can't remember his F-Car dealerships name.

The water pumps are real easy to rebuild yourself, if you have basic mech skills, feeler gauges and access to manual hydraulic press, or arbor press. The Ferrari service manual helps as it has the dimensions needed. Bearings and the mech seal are inexpensive,and available from the usual f-car vendors.

Doug

 

If you need a new fuel pump look at replacing it for a Hardi unit:

https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/bcd-corona-carb-fuel-pump-replacement-hardi-18812.528946/

The original fuel pumps are not available and NOS units are really expensive. The Hardi unit fits in the spot of the original and works great.

 

I used one of these. I was close enough to bolt in, have to just drill an extra hole in its mounting bracket. I also added an adjustable regulator, as I wasn't sure if the Carter had too much output pressure for the Webers.

https://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4070/10002/-1?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7Yjj-fyI6QIVLD2tBh2LsQVBEAQYASABEgIKO_D_BwE

Doug

 

Agreed. Just discovered access to the lower water pump hose between the engine and the firewall after I removed the A/C Compressor, so that's nice to figure out. Every hose is being repalced, even the vapor return lines.

I couldn't find 308 pump kits?

 

I think you can get pump rebuild kits from TRutlands and Ferrparts.

Note to measure your water pump shaft diameter, there are two different 308 pumps, thick shaft and skinny shaft. I can't recall if the bearings and seal are different between the two pumps. The two pumps interchange on the motors.

Follow the directions in the service manual, don't break a seal like i did once, they are $40.

Doug

 

Congratulations! I joined the club in Dec. Welcome! Sweet car! I have an ‘84 QV. Do the work now, it’ll pay off when you’re driving at the speed limit but feel like speed racer...


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Thank You! And welcome from me to you! (I guess that sounds weird since you were here first!

 

So, time to drain the 1990 Fuel... didn't seem to be that old, and wasn't as varnishy smelling as I expected... Image Unavailable, Please Login

 

And Ricambi America sent the wrong fuel filter? Mine is a cartridge type.. the one they sent in a (HUGE!) inline type...?? Guess I'll call them tomorrow...

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...and the fun continues!!!!!

https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=3522292581121430

 

Doug, looks great! Congratulations. That’s so awesome.


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