456GT Center Console Removal

Hi,

Im about to remove my center console to fix the after-market radio wiring madness. There are wires going into the trunk via the center tunnel. also, some live wires going into the glove box.

Been studying the parts diagram. Looks like they are just bolts but I find it hard to access. Before I call in the world's strongest person. Anyone has tips on removing the radio shroud, center console all the way to the back seats?

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I had to pull the back seat backs and bottoms, remove the rear console then you can access the screws under there... that and removing the shifter console area and ashtray (screw under there I believe) and take out the front gauge package (six gauges across the top) and it should lift right out. I did not take mine out completely when I installed my radio conversion... was able to get wires all sorted with the outer console in place.

 

hey guys - reviving old thread. I'm about to do this to revamp my stereo stuff. any tips to removing the tranny tunnel trim? back seats and back center compartment?
and what stereo stuff did you end up using?
thanks
jay

 

Can you let me know how the tire routing to the trunk works? I am going to run a sub cable from the head to the amp.

 

what do you mean by 'tire routing'? I'll try to find out exactly where my PO ran the cables for my system and let you know - i'm pretty sure he went from: battery/breaker (through fire wall with existing wire harness) along the right rocker panel under the passenger door, over the right rear wheel well (under the right rear seat) and into a LARGE capacitor sitting in the cubby in the upper right side of the trunk. then wires go down to 2 amps where the spare tire was. All the wires go from the amps to a digital processor next to the disc changer; THEN all the wires run back to the head unit in the glove box; I believe they run back to the front of the car under the tranny tunnel trim.
i'll try to get pics this wknd

 

Sorry wire routing. Need N.A. route from stereo head unit to amp. I think the original head unit cable runs that route.

 

So I’m gonna run the wires for the stereo this wknd. I’m still trying to figure the simplest way to ‘gently lift’ the center tunnel without fully removing the gauge cluster and shifter console. I’ll let you know how it goes…

Also any tips on removing the rear corner console (with arm rest) would be appreciated. I removed the 2 bolts/ 1 screw and it didn’t budge. Am I missing something?

ty

 

Why not repurpose the stereo wiring harness currently in there? Cut and splice.

 

That is the plan for powering the unit. But theres a few ‘extensions’ to run- USB, antenna etc

 

How did it go

 

Hey sorry for the lack i’ll follow up. Yes, it all turned out very very well. I ended up putting in a retro sound stereo which is period-correct look with modern technology. I did reuse some of the wiring, but I also rewired a lot of it myself. I kept the speakers that were in the doors and in the back because they were good and not cracking with decent sound. I hid my USB port in the ashtray and I put the microphone down left under the driver console. In the process of wiring, the stereo, I actually got rid of a lot of unnecessary stuff, including finding and removing a bad parasitic draw. Interestingly, I used a thermal radar thing connected to iPhone to see the hot relay. I’ll try to load up some pictures in the next couple of days of the hot relay and the radio and wiring

 

Thanks for the update jared

 

Same view. Both with iPhone. One with the thermal radar. Car was off, key not even in the ignition
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So did you identify it?

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Looks like an extra relay.

The one with the red dot on it is the interior lights timer (21 in the parts manual).

Maybe on your car, 21 and 22 are swapped over?
22 is a "buzzer relay", although on US cars it's quite different. Euro car modules are more relay-like.

 

Yes, so the brightly lit up one is the extra relay, which was always stuck powered on and which of course was removed. What you can’t see just out of view in the picture to the left is where the buzzer relay would be, but that had been removed by a previous owner. No loss to me. Yes, the one with the red dot is the lights timer and that works fine.
Highly recommend one of the thermal Flir, iPhone accessories. Very inexpensive and very helpful.

 

Thanks for the tip, Jared, but I couldn't find any FLIR version below U$300 (postage not included). That's $500 Australian dollars

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0728C7KND?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Yes sorry I must have remembered incorrectly the price thinking it was less…
But,.. would probably pay for itself over time, depending on how many vehicles one works on.

 

Considering the number of melting connectors people are finding on their relay panels, perhaps this will be a good investment for V12 owners.