Hi All, My fans aren't pulling as well as they once did and my oil temps have been on the higher side lately. My mechanic replaced the right side (since that one was really pulling as well) and now it seems to blow the fuse pretty easily. Apparently there aren't any OEM replacements for our fans any longer so we used an aftermarket one. What are you all doing for fan replacements? Thanks!
Pretty sure Spal makes them still, i fact i am sure of it. I installed Toyota pwm controllers on both fans so they come up to speed over 3 seconds intead of instant on, with both fans that over 30 ams and the fuse box can cook as well. Post 17 has a video of it. https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/implementing-cooling-fan-pwm-controller.608170/
I purchased both sides brand new, OEM in the Ferrari boxes. So they do indeed still make them. New fans run noticeably louder too. You can tell when they are running.
@MAD828 Where did you get new ones? @Ferrarium - That looks like a really interesting way to do that. I also have a problem where my secondary airpump pops the fuse - I already upped that one to 20amps from 15. We did replace the pump with the Toyota version at my engine out last year.
Can you recall the Spal part number, Elliott? The Spal 31102113 is a 16 inch puller fan and has a flow rate of 2,500~2,599 cfm. There is conflicting information on various websites whether the fan motor is sealed: https://rceperformance.com.au/spal-174-electric-fan-58.html https://www.holley.com/products/cooling/fans/parts/30102113 Usually unsealed fans are only for racing on sealed tarmac. There was a discussion on using fans with less flow/less current draw/less noise and sealed, perhaps the Spal 30102049 (flow rate 2024 cfm/44 watts/30db/1800rpm) . I couldn't find any valid noise specs or fan speeds for the 31102113. Amazon has the noise level at 2467 dB !!!! https://www.amazon.com/Spal-30102113-Curved-Blade-Performance/dp/B003PB48YA There is also conflicting information on cfm. One of the best message threads on the subject is here: https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/355-fans-replaced-with-spal-30102113.526398/
I purchased from Superformance UK. They have the aftermarket option as well. Image Unavailable, Please Login
@Qavion It didn't for a long time but when my fan fuse popped I checked all the fuses and the airpump was popped. I'll keep an eye on that too.
I put these on my car. Perfect fit replacement, quieter than stock, kick on w/ less electricity demand, zero change in cooling performance.
Does everyone's right side fan stay on basically forever? I just ran the car for awhile without driving it and the right side fan came on reasonably quickly and I think only cycled off once in like 30 minutes.
Maybe a coolant temp sensor issue Image Unavailable, Please Login "computer pack" = RH Motronic ECU (2.7). The RH ECU (2.7) controls the fan relay. If the car is a 5.2, the one and only Motronic ECU controls the fan relay. Not according to the books, Mitch, unless I've missed something.
fans draw lots of power right off the fusebox...a very poor design that shows it's failure as the system ages. Get the fans off the fusebox by using the oem wire as a trigger and add right sized relays for the new fans hard wired closer to battery. This way you get good clean power to the fans and they can work as spec'ed
We talked about doing something like that - and it's still an option. I just like to keep things as OEM as possible. Is it normal for the RH fan to basically run non stop?
No, mine only comes on when the oil temp gets toward the middle of the gauge. My car has been modified to have a separate feed directly from the battery with relays, so guessing it had some issues in the past with the fans. It has a resettable circuit breaker in line from the battery feeding two separate relays triggered from the stock fan power feeds.
Before replacing the fan, I would get to 3/4 up the oil temp gauge if I drove it even slightly hard - maybe a little under 3/4. With the new fan (when the fuse isn't blown) it seems to get a couple notches above middle. When I ran the car in my garage from cold to fully warmed up for about 30 minutes the RH fan clicks on just a little below middle on the gauge. It cycled off once for maybe 30 seconds in that entire time.
It does sound like a faulty coolant temperature sensor. Your modified wiring still uses the same temperature sensor in the engine "V". See graphic in post #13. Your gauge sensor is on the same coolant manifold, so the temperatures should be the same. Coolant temperature sensor resistance vs temperature: Image Unavailable, Please Login Maybe you could check the resistance of the sensor with the car cold?
It's a standard bosch unit: P/N 0280130026. Should only cost $20 or thereabouts. The temperature sender for the gauge may be NLA.
Its amazing 355's can even get on the road. PWM, seriously, every car last 20+ years has them installed for a reason. Nice slow draw to full tilt boogie over 3 seconds instead of instant. In stop and go traffic where fans come on and off frequently, it generates a ton of heat on those fuses and fuse box.
