328 Alternator Removal Procedure

Brian,

I cant speak for a 328 but on the 308, you:

*take lots of digital images!!!!!!!

*unhook battery neg cable
*drain coolant
*remove coolant pipe in front of alt
*loosen slack and remove belt
*remove alt adj. hardware
*remove nut holding alt (on mine you have to remove dipstick first)
* put a piece of cardboard on exhaust and set the alt. on it
*detach electrical cables from starter
*carefully remove (on the gt4 there is a heat shield that is easier to remove if it is taken off first)

 

Sorry to see your post so late, but here's a pretty complete alternator removal procedure i wrote up in the old Fchat archives:

http://www.ferrarichat.com/discus/messages/112/316950.html

I always pull the alt mounting bracket instead of removing the pivot bolt from the alt. Lots quicker & easier, & you can't get the alt out with it in.

BTW, I welded a short piece of ~1/4" steel rod to the alt bolt heads when I had it out. Now the alt bolts can be loostened by just turning the nuts from the front. Takes longer to drain the coolant down & get the pipe out of the way than it does to remove the alt!

You do have to twist the alt around until you get just the right orientation before it'll come out thru the opening.

BTW, please DO NOT start a new thread just because you're not getting answers to an existing one.

Just post a quick 'please help' to your original thread.

 

re: Message [qoute=btemplin]"I have removed the lower mounting bracket from the block. Removed the vent cover from the rear of the alt. Disconnected the wiring from the alt. But I can't find a position that will let me get between the gas tank and the crank pulley. "
[/quote]

The alt removal write-up linked to by the preceding post was based upon my experiences with a 308 QV. However, the 308 & 328 engines are extremely close, & I'm pretty sure both use the same BOSCH alternator, so I know of no reason for removal to be different.

I remember having to rotate the alternator into a funny orientation before I could get it out.

Hmm, is there a heat shield under the alternator that runs along the top of the exhaust manifold extension along the frame?

If so, I think it may have to be loosened so it drops down against the manifold, or maybe even removed.

Will try to keep a close eye on this thread in case you have further questions.

 

Hmm,
Try standing the alternator up on end, then angle it sideways over the crank pulley & against the gas tank & see if it will come out.

Yes, we could be dealing with a 308-328 gas tank difference, but it's never come up before.

 

btemplin / Verell

Gas tanks are the same for both 308 / 328 so the alternator should come through - might have to jack up the engine a little though.

 

I may have it. Is the problem that your alt is too long to come out because of the large Al cast cover on the back? The cover I'm thinking of covers the back of the alt & has a flexible tube attached so it picks up air from below the car.

If so then you'll need to remove the cover. Turn the alternator around & you can get at the bolts that are holding it on.

I retrofitted a cover to my 308 last time I had it out, but I can't remember if I had to install it after I got my alternator into place.

 

This is strange, It looks just like the same area in 308s.

The alt comes out thru the gap either nose or tail end first & (I think) angled slightly upwards.

The A/C belts, etc. are close but not a problem.

Hmm, I don't remember that large bolt & metal boss on the compressor's lower left corner. Is hitting it part of your problem? Is it part of the mounting bracket? If so, could you take a couple of pix that includes your compressor & it's mounting bracket?

The 308 compressor is most commonly an Italian built version of the YORK #206 piston compressor used in the 328s. There are a few (supposedly minor) differences in the cases tho. Possibly the 328 compressor is taller & extends downward further & closes things up.

Can you see the mfg's name & # on the compressor?

If the compressor has to come out, I can walk you thru it.

 

This is strange, It looks like the same area in 308s.

The alt comes out thru the gap either nose or tail end first. The pivot point has to be tilted just right to fit in a gap. Possibly the triangular one between the crank damper & the exhaust/heat shield.

The A/C belts, etc. are close but not a problem in the 308.

Hmm, I don't remember that large bolt & metal boss on the compressor's lower left corner. Is hitting it part of your problem? Is it part of the compressor mounting bracket? If so, could you take a couple of pix that includes your compressor & the mounting bracket?

The 308 compressor is most commonly an Italian built version of the YORK (now CCI) #206R piston compressor used in the 328s. There are a few (supposedly minor) differences in the cases tho. Possibly the 328 compressor is taller & extends downward further & closes things up.
Or else they've redone the compressor mounting bracket.

Can you see the mfg's name & # on the compressor?

If the compressor has to come out, I can walk you thru it.

 

Here's how to remove a YORK style (piston) A/C compressor:
(CAVEAT: I haven't done this in a couple of years, so I may
have forgotten something.)

Special tools:
A Thin, flat 17mm(i think) ratcheting wrench really speeds things up.
(GearWrench reversable wrench) , or a thin CRAFTSMAN Stainless, Lifetime,
or Professional Thin Profile 3/8" ratchet w/a short socket).

0) Disconnect the 2 wires for the compressor's electrical clutch. They are up near the dipstick tube.
1) Remove the A/C belt tensioner, leaving the belt in place.
2) Loosten, but don't remove the lower compressor mounting bracket.
3) Drop the compressor out of the upper mounting bracket as follows:

The compressor is held to the upper bracket by 3 studs which have pairs of tapered rubber grommets on them.
The upper bracket has double tapered holes that are sandwiched by the rubber grommets.
The grommets will have washers on them, so watch out that they don't get lost once things start to move.
The studs provide a course adjustment of the tension on the A/C compressor belt.
Look at the top of the upper bracket & notice how far the studs protrude past the end of the nuts.
(A couple of pictures would be a good idea) so you can leave a similar protrusion when re-installing.

- Using a thin ratcheting wrench (or a combination wrench wrench & a lot of
patience) remove the 3 nuts from the studs.
Unfortunately, there isn't a lot of clearance between the top of the upper bracket & the body,
hence the need for a low profile ratcheting wrench.

- Remove the flat washers that s/b under the nuts.
- Remove the 3 upper rubber grommets from the upper bracket. (You may have to wiggle the compressor a bit
to break the grommets free from the studs).

At this point, the compressor is being held in place by the lower bracket & the studs & lower grommets.

4) Remove the lower mounting bracket while supporting the compressor so It can't drop suddenly.
At this point, the compressor should drop down out of the upper bracket, but most likely the lower grommets
are stuck to the studs & the holes in the bottom of the upper bracket. You should be able to break them free
by shoving the compressor back & fourth.

5) Slip the compressor out of place. You can support it by draping the hoses over the top of the fuel tank,
or by hanging it with wire from something sturdy.

Installation is the reverse of this procedure.

 

You're welcome.
Sorry we couldn't figure out why the engine is so close to the gas tank on your car. (Or if the alternator case is oversize...)

 

Did you note UK Tech's suggestion to drop the engine mounting bolts and raise the motor slightly?

That would be easier than pulling the crank pulley IMO.

 

I raised mine an inch or two once to get the front header off.

I don't think I'd go for that much though! Any one else?

I can get my 308 unit out just as you are trying to do....this is very strange....

 

The crank damper is just held on by the large bolt on the end. You'll need an air wrench to break it loose tho.

It's aligned with a single large woodruff key, so alignment isn't a concern. You may need a large brass or copper punch or hammer to align the key for reinstallation tho.

The end of the crank the damper sits on is cylindrical. My damper came off pretty smoothly once I had the bolt out.


I think I've read that the 328 front engine mounts are different from the 308 mounts, so I can't help you with them.

 

Get a large pulley/gear puller. Most rental places will have them.
Also AutoZone will rent or loan tools. If it doesn't break it loose pretty easily, protect the bolt hole/threads on the end of the crank by either put the bolt back in, or put a large nut on the end to press against.

Put a block of wood against the front of the sump & pry with a wonder bar.
Just be careful to not bend the sump/timing cover. (I'm reluctant to suggest this as you have to have a really good feel for how much force is likely to be safe.)

Man, this project is fighting you all the way!