Turbo or Engine mod

The turbo is what, about 30k for stage one? And the 650 hp option is stage 2, correct?

Your rebuild will cost over 40k?

 

Anytime you modify a car it should be a package deal for reliability reasons....plus you'll actually enjoy driving it more so it'll seem like money well spent. The gearbox would be my first concern, for example the twin turbo boxer with the TR powerplant had $75K invested in the engine and gearbox with all the mods internally to make it work. From what I hear now, the reliability is still a big problem with components breaking etc....fast car but a headache for the owner. Will you have problems with a 650HP TR - YES! Will it be financially devastating - YES! It can be done just figure on re-engineering the entire power train and engine management.

 

What engine mods are you talking about doing for 45k? I have heard in order to get big power out of a TR that you have to swap to a fuel management system like the Motec. I would rather build a rock solid naturally aspirated reliable engine rather than a twin turbo set up.... just my opinion though.

 

Hello

Best Idea is sell your TR and buy one that norwood has already built with turbos for someone in the past.

In todays market you will be a straight trade or maybe even spend less money as the modified car market is softer

At that point take the car back to norwood or any one you prefer and for 5 to 10k you can add the latest turbos software etc.

Just my thoughts

Regards,

Art

PS

The TR were often turbo'd and there is a market for those cars

A nitious motor and your on Giligans Island my friend

pss

Do not think your crazy, a friend of mine sold a chopped automatic 400i last month. The destination was Norwood with a twin turbo conversion.

Just do it

 

The gearbox case has a support wall for the pinion, its not strong enough to use 650HP the way I would want to. Spend the dough, it'll make for a good thread.

 

Did they give you any info on what they would do to the heads? I ask because I'm installing TR heads on a 400i block and thinking it's goign to make 550-600hp naturally aspirated....if I can get enough air through the heads that is. I'm getting started putting a flow bench together today and should be ready to get started on the heads in the next several days, so I curious what others have been able to do with these heads.

As far as the NA vs turbo, there is no right answer, but you may be happier with one vs the other depending on how you drive. Turbos really shine in the top 50% of the rpm band and will give you the most bang for you buck. They are ideally suited to the race track, but on the street, depending on how much boost you have, there can be a pretty abrupt change from low power to high power and it you are constantly driving though that power step, you probably won’t be happy. Turbos have their own sound too that you will either like or not. A NA engine has a more ferrari like sound IMO and a smoother power curve, but will never match a turbo car for hp. It’s a tuff call.

I had a supercharger on my QV for years (about 520 hp) and was pretty happy, but I’ve decided to return to the path of light and goodness and install a naturally aspirated 12 in it. I’ll have at least as much power and will not be so close to the limits as the QV engine was at over 20 psi of boost.

 

2HP/cubic inch is quite a feat for a N/A engine Mark, what exactly are you doing inside to arrive at this level? I cant see how a TR head could ever flow enough air without boost to acheive the volumetric efficiency needed to make those numbers. The only other way to see that peek number is to spin the engine to 10K rpm or more but it would be just that, a peek number. Using a 4.6 32v cobra engine as an example, ive built them ranging in power from stock to 1000hp with twin turbos at 26psi, 1600HP just means clamping things together better and pumping in more boost. A single centrifugal procharger with around 14psi will make 650HP, 700HP is a smaller pulley away and more fuel. To make the same power on a 4.6 cobra without boost would make the car unpleasant to drive on the street and it would basically be a full race engine. I hope you can get those numbers, Im curious to see how without boost and if you like how it runs.

 

I understand the power of the darkside very well

We'll see what the flow bench has to say once I get set-up and get the head on it. To hit 550 hp at 7500 rpm on a 4.9 liter engine, I need 115-120 CFM at .350" lift and 10" H2O and stock or nearly stock cams. The QV heads which are very very silmilar came up to 114, so there's hope I think. To make 600 I need 130 cfm at 10" H2O and (that might be a stretch) and it needs to spin to 8000. We'll see in the next week or 2 what I can get for flow and that will tell me what I can do for hp.

If it comes up short, I can always add a blower. A very modest 5 psi on a 500 hp enigine is abot 700 hp by my math

 

buying a car already built will definately be cheaper

I would advise 500 hp as the trans will always be an issue w more hp, and the more hp the bigger the headache

 

The engine can spin to 10K if you put the right rods and pistons in it.

 

>Best Idea is sell your TR and buy one that norwood has already built with turbos for someone in the past.

Good luck with that.

 

I'm not going there.....man that would need a LOT of air to feed it.

 

I love my turbo TR. I drive the car pretty hard and no drivetrain problems yet. At my next service, I am planning to upgrade engine internals(pistons, bearings, valves) and then increase boost slightly. The car sounds and feels killer! Good luck

 

For a bit more you can get the 800 HP Norwood Boxer (+ or - 80k) at driversource and have 2 cars.