F355 Spider Power Seat Issue | FerrariChat

F355 Spider Power Seat Issue

Discussion in '348/355' started by Loser, May 27, 2008.

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  1. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    I am having trouble with the passenger power seat only working in one direction. I was finally able to get the passenger seat out and have narrowed down the problem. There seems to be a relay inside a black electronics box that is attached to the side of the hydrolic pump for the top. You can hear the click coming from the box when you move the driver's seat back and forth. The passenger seat only makes the click sound in one direction. I verified that the issue is not with the switch by using the passenger side switch to control the driver side seat, so it must be inside the box or wiring related. I can also move the passenger seat in both directions by switching polarity on the wires, so it is not motor related. Ferrari only sells the box as a very pricey complete unit. I'm thinking about opening the box and see if I can just repair the one relay that is causing the issue instead of replacing the entire box. Does anybody have any experience with this, or any other thoughts of what to try?
    Also, when I measure the voltage on the passenger seat motor wires with a meter, I see 12V when the switch is in the forward direction and 0V when it is in the off, or reverse direction. I believe some relays inside the box select forward or reverse polarity.
     
  2. James-NZ

    James-NZ F1 Veteran

    Jun 26, 2007
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    Good work on the diagnosis, now pull the box apart, you have nothing to loose and might be able to save it with a few parts.

    Good luck and keep us updated. :)
     
  3. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    #3 Loser, Jun 3, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    Alright, I pulled the box apart and there are two Siemens relays (P/N V23081-C1061-A303). They are obsolete, but still available through resellers. I am requesting quotes now, but it looks like they are around $75.00 each. I will try to attach a picture.
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  4. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
  5. James-NZ

    James-NZ F1 Veteran

    Jun 26, 2007
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    Good work, are the relay's sealed? I have often been able to open up a relay and clean up the contacts and check the continuity, worth a try.
     
  6. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
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    Tom
    Actually, since I run a business in the semiconductor arena, I contacted Tyco and asked for samples. One or two ought to do, right? :)
     
  7. James-NZ

    James-NZ F1 Veteran

    Jun 26, 2007
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    HAHA!!!! Well, in that case, 2 would have to be the go ;)
     
  8. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    Actually, only the passenger seat has issues. It only moved forward. So I should only need to replace that relay.
    If Tyco decides not to send me samples, then I guess it's time for the Dremmel tool. I'll cut the top off and see if the relay can be repaired. If so, I'll repair it and Epoxy it back together. I know it's not the proper way to fix a Ferrari, but at least I didn't use duct tape.
     
  9. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    Just heard back from Tyco. No samples. Minimum order is 252 units. :-(
     
  10. mseals

    mseals Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Sep 9, 2007
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    Mike Seals
  11. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
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    Rick Schumm
    348's don't have this problem :D Although our cars have a few other problems :). I'm not familiar with some of these issues on a 355, but why the heck would you need a printed circuit board to get a power seat to move back and forth? I like keeping cars original, and don't mean to oversimplify the system, but I'd have to look seriously at some rewiring before spending an outrageous price on repairing the stock system. I really am interested in hearing if there are concrete reasons why they designed it as-is. Anyone know??
     
  12. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    Hi Mike,

    I have come across this site and many like it. So far, they have all required minimum orders of at least 10 units. The best pricing I have found so far is 10 for $215 or 20 for $244.

    - Tom
     
  13. James-NZ

    James-NZ F1 Veteran

    Jun 26, 2007
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    I am no expert but I’ll give this one a go :D

    The spider top is electric/hydraulic on the 355, this system requires the seats to be moved fully forward for the top to be able to fold away, and it also drops the side windows and inch or so during operation. I would imagine this circuit board is part of the control unit that tells the roof control unit that the seat is forward and allows the motor to begin operation and then once the operation is completed the seats return to there original position. I have made that sound more complex than it really is, but non the less it is not a perfect system, the windows don’t roll themselves back up when the operation is completed, small detail, but one that should have been sorted by the design crew.

    Clear as mud ;)
     
  14. FandLcars

    FandLcars F1 Rookie

    Aug 6, 2006
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    Now that you mention it, I do seem to remember hearing that the spider seats do have to move forward to lower the top. Didn't know about the windows, though (talk about complex!). :eek:
     
  15. ametelsky

    ametelsky Rookie

    May 13, 2007
    25
    Rochester, NY
    #15 ametelsky, Jun 6, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I had a similar problem on my 98 355. The problem was actually the seat position sensor located under the seat on power actuator mechanism. The sensor is what tells the ecu where the seat is and when it should allow the hydraulic top to function (it turns on the enabling relay) I'm not saying your problem is the same, but you might want to check out the sensor. Basically the sensor is a potentiometer driven by a tiny plastic worm and wheel off the seat actuator rod. the potentiometer varies electrical resistance in relation to the number of turns on the worm gears. In my case, the plastic drive coupling cracked, and was no longer turning the potentiometer. I'll try to attach some photos. One photo is the cracked coupling and the other is after I made an aluminum sleeve to press on the broken part. I hope this helps.

    Alan
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  16. ferrariwant2be

    ferrariwant2be Karting

    Jan 14, 2008
    87
    I haven't had to do this (yet) so I don't know what was involved in getting that board out but if it's not hard to get back in, why not extract the relay from the board, give it a good smack, then try it again. They're mechanical devices so sometimes they need a little "TLC".

    I went to ride my motorcycle the other day and it wouldn't start. I suspected the starter relay so I gave it some "TLC" with a 8mm allen wrench. Works great now... but yeah, being it's kind of important maybe I should change it one of these days!
     
  17. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Tom
    I am going to pull the board again soon. I have a business trip next week, so it will probably be after that. I intend on hooking it back up without the black plastic case and measuring the voltages to the relays to verify that the relays are receiving the signal to switch, but are failing to switch. This will prove beyond any doubt that the relays are the issue. If I find this to be the case, I will certainly try the "bigger hammer" approach first. If that doesn't work, then the soldering iron comes out, and maybe the Dremmel tool, and I will try to open the relay. If I am unsuccessful in repairing the relay, then I guess it's time to order 10 or 20 of them. Maybe if anyone else has the same issue in the future, I can sell some of them to get my money back.
     
  18. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
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    Tom
    I pulled the board and did some diagnostics with a meter. I found that the voltage is not being applied across the relay coil, so the relay is not the issue. I traced it back through a transistor and resistor to a Motorola PLCC (I think). I also traced the switch side through some logic to the PLCC. The next step would be to apply power and probe each node to see if any of the transistors are bad. Other than that, I guess I need to visit the junkyard to find a different board.
     
  19. f355spider

    f355spider F1 World Champ
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  20. windsock

    windsock Formula 3
    Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 29, 2006
    1,070
    we see these all the time. Bad seat potentiometer. It will need SD1 to recalibrate and learn the seat position when finished. The good thing is Ferrari now sells that unit separate from the seat track. Previously we had to use a Jaguar unit rather than buying the entire seat track. I also recommend checking the hydrolich fluid as it rarely gets checked and causes big issues once it gets air into the system.
     
  21. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
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    Tom
    OK, I replaced the ECU and now both seats work in both directions. Now I need to understand the wiring connections for the potentiometers. The connector on the potentiometer below the seat was cut off, so I need to attach a new connector. I have the connector, but I need to know which wire on the potentiometer connects to which wire on the harness. Can someone help?

    Thanks,

    Tom
     
  22. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
  23. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom
    I now see why the potentiometer was considered a possible culprit to my passenger seat only moving one way. In my case the potentiometers were disconnected though. When I replaced the ECU, the problem went away. Then I connected the passenger seat potentiometer. Since I had no feedback on how to connect the wires, I just connected them randomly. Worst case I would get 4.7K Ohm without any variance capability. After connecting the potentiometer, the seat would again only move back. When I disconnected the potentiometer, the seat moved both directions again. I am assuming I connected the potentiometer in the worst case scenario, fixed 4.7K (my luck so far), so the ECU thinks the seat is all the way forward and will not let me move it in that direction. I will switch two of the wires and see if that resolves the issue.
     
  24. James-NZ

    James-NZ F1 Veteran

    Jun 26, 2007
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    Hamilton, NewZealand
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    Hay Tom, sorry i'm late coming back to this thread, i must have missed your updates. Good work so far, let us know how you get on with the "wire swaping". I will take a look tonight and see if i can identify the wiring under my seat.
     
  25. Loser

    Loser Formula Junior

    Apr 11, 2008
    791
    Gilroy, CA
    Full Name:
    Tom

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