+1, I bought 7 quarts, mine took around 5 quarts. I have two quarts left over. Someone posted it takes 7 quarts, but remember, you only want to fill to half way between the min and max lines...you need to leave room for expansion went it heats up.
Thanks gentlemen I'll pour in 5 quarts and check it from there. Do you neeed to run the car to let anything settle before adding additional?
I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm just popping off... but I've been under the impression that it is a little over four quarts for a 348, and seven quarts for a 355. Can anyone back me up on this, or have I had too much wine this evening?
I am not sure about the 355, but at the beginning of sping in my 348 I put in 4 quarts and the level measured exactly at the middle of the dipstick. I thought I would need 4.5 quarts, but I even checked the level halfway through the summer and it was still at the mid-point of the dipstick.
I changed the fluid from the Redline to Amsoil synthetic.A friend had it @ his shop & wanted an honest comparison of the 2 so what better trans to use it in than the mighty 348 5spd.When warm it shifts as well as the Redline but when from a cold start it has much to be desired.While better than normal gear oil it still isnt as good as the Redline so Summit Racing will be getting a call from me today.-John
So did I. Is the 75-90 the same as 75-90ns? The former is appropriate for limited slip differentials (which is the case for the 348) and I do not see 75-90NS on their website.
Sean- Personally, I would not want any 75W-140 in my Ferrari transaxle. Since the shop screwed up, take the containers back to them and insist they give you the correct weight oil to fix their screw-up. Taz Terry Phillips
+1. Get it out of there. Even if I had already added additional, new (correct) oil to the transaxle, I would drain it and start all over. So you lose around $50.00, much cheaper than possible transaxle damage.
I used the Redline Lightweight Shockproof gear oil (http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=43&pcid=8), and do not use it unless you are able to handle dramatic changes in your life. Honestly, this was a transformational moment in the ownership of my 355; previously, the shifting was balky...at best. You needed to bring the gearbox oil temps up before it would even consider engaging a gear. With the Redline, it shifts like a Miata. Do not hesitate. Buy it. Bob
The local dealer warned against Shockproof (didn't ask why) but did recommend the Redline NS. Just changed it today. (5 quarts even to the full mark) I have owned the car for ten years. It has never shifted better. I previously used Shell, Mobil 1 and Agip. The Redline NS is the STUFF! It feels good enough start driving it again.
+1 ... I really don't understand why anyone would take the chance after all the warnings from various sources about the shockproof stuff. Sounds like it makes for an awesome shift but at the expense of possibly doing gb damage??? Get the NS!
The Redline Dealer where I got mine said the Shockproof is more for racing, or short hard runs (or something like that) and that the protection isn't as good, he recommended the 75W90NS
Ok... this thread got me thinking that it is past time for me to change out my gear oil as well. The problem is just that I haven't done it myself yet, and I'm still very much learning this car (a 348 in my case), and I'm just a bit gun shy on "first time" things. So I thought I would try and ask a few questions for the many knowledgeable folks here. I have plenty of 75W90NS on hand and ready to go, but I just want to make sure what I THINK is the dip stick really IS the dip stick. To me it looks way to much like another "fastener" and seems tight as hell (admittedly, my arms aren't the strongest). So before I put a long wrench or a breaker bar to this, I just thought I would ask... is this the gearbox dip stick pictured below? (Yes, I have some serious engine detailing to do, and apologies for the bad pic, but I tried to label a few things to help show exactly where the picture was taken, which was looking almost straight down towards the left rear corner of the car.) Also, question #2, does anyone know the size of the hex head on the filler cap? Any feedback or comments are much appreciated! Image Unavailable, Please Login
Jason, changing the gear oil is VERY easy. You are correct in your picture, that is the dipstick. It requires a 17mm socket. The filler cap requires a 19mm hex head. Be careful with the filler cap, I suggest you put on a pair of gloves when trying to loosen because it can be on tight and then when you finally loosen it you will likely swing/jerk fast and end up cutting your hands on something in the engine (it happened to me, I ended up slicing my fingers on the heat shield - ouch!!)...unless of course you are using an extension that will get you up above the engine so there's no chance to hit anything. Also, if you are able to put a net under the oil while draining it that would be ideal, then you can inspect it for any debris. And post a picture of your plug right after you get it off, that way we can see how much metal shavings it collected. Hopefully it will look like the first picture here and not the second picture [(first pic is from Troy Wood and the second is Steve's (id TheOnlyest)]. One last thing, make sure the copper crush washer is okay to re-use, if not then replace it. Good luck!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Thanks Acemaster! I really appreciate the reply! I can take a stab at it now with a bit more confidence. I've got a replacement plug and copper crush washer ready to go. Now I'm just really curious to see how much debris is in there. Well, I should find out soon enough. Thanks again!
My pleasure...it'll be a piece of cake...don't forget to post pics of the old plug and whatever it collected. cheers.
Will do! I just left town this morning for the week, but should be able to tackle it this weekend. Looking forward to it! Thanks again Mike!
I abandoned my attempts to use the filler plug to fill the trans with fresh oil. After draining the oil I just used a few funnels in the dipstick opening and filled it there. No biggie, it is just that the filler plug was beyond my abilities to remove. 17MM is correct for the dipstick. BT
Good point Bill, I just came back here to post that if Jason can't get the filler cap open, then just fill it via the dipstick opening. Also, Jason, you will need a 10mm hex head for the plug.
Lol... nice work around! I'll definitely keep that in mind. I haven't even tried the drain plug yet. I had fears of draining the gearbox, then not able to open the filler cap. nice to know that I have two options for filling locations. Thanks guys!
No worries Jason, the dipstick should come off pretty easily if you can't get the filler plug open....and you're right, it is nice to have 2 options
